4- 



F-5 



"^ 



r>\a.y\ S^ U*. -Ln'ft^ <Hh^ U^cuia. aJwLA. f€(ru>-^ y^- 



Figures 1 and 2 (see page 68). 






I'igure 3 (see pai;r 



<^^^tUcU >nx^J,-c^a^^<^f k^lUU h^y^^ frusp^r 



V\ii\\Vf i (sec l>:ii;i' T'i ). 

Facsimilks of Profile Sketch ks ix Pedko F'oxt's Diary. 
From the manuscript in the Bancroft Collection. 



Publications of the 
Academy of Pacific Coast History 

Vol. 3 No. i 



THE ANZA EXPEDITION OF 1775-1776 
DIARY OF PEDRO FONT 



Edited by 



Frederick J. Teggart 



Associate Professor of Pacific Coast History, Utifversity of California 
Curator of the Academy of Pacific Coast History 



University of California 

Berkeley, California 

March, 1913 



h 






C'OPl-EIGHT, 1913, 
BY 

The Academy of Pacific Coast History 



BERKELEY: THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA PRESS 



;CI.A33298S 



INTRODUCTION 



The city of San Francisco was founded in 1776 by a body of 
settlers brought for the purpose from Sonora under the leader- 
ship of Lieutenant-colonel Juan Bautista de Anza. The chaplain 
of the expedition was Fray Pedro Font, who accompanied Anza 
from San Miguel de Horcasitas to San Francisco Bay and back, 
a journey which occupied from September 29, 1775, to June 1, 
1776. 

The authorities for the incidents of the expedition consist of 
the diaries of Anza and Font, supplemented, at the beginning, 
by that of Fray Francisco Garces. 

Important and well known as they are, the diaries of Anza 
and Font have not hitherto been published in their original 
form. — unlike that of Garces which has appeared both in Spanish 
(Dociimentos para la Historia de Mexico, segunda serie, tomo I, 
Mexico, 1854, pp. 225-374.) and English {On the Trail of a 
Spanish Pioneer: the Diary and Itinerary of Francisco Garces 
. . . 1775-1776, translated by Elliott Coues, New York. 1900.). 
Excerpts from Father Font's diary, in translation, were included 
in the First Annual of the Territorial Pioneers of California, 
San Francisco, 1877, pp. 81-107. An extensive paraphrase of 
Anza's diary was published by Zoeth Skinner Eldredge in the 
Journal of American History, vols. 2 and 3, 1908-1909, and 
reprinted in his book. The Beginnings of San Francisco, San 
Francisco, 1912. ]\Ir. Eldredge 's narrative includes the details 
of the first expedition made by Anza over the route in 1774, as 
well as of the second in 1775 and 1776. 

The manuscript from which the present text ha.s been pi-iiih'd 
came into the possession of the University of California in June. 
1897. by gift of j\Ir. Collis P. Huntington, as a part of the 
"Robert E. Cowan Collection." At an earlier period it formed 
part of the materials gathered by General H. W. Halleck for his 
unfinished History of California. 

[3] 



4 Academy of Pacific Coast History, 

The manuscript consists of forty leaves, 8^ by 6% inches in 
size, written on both sides. It is entirely in Font 's handwriting, 
and is signed by him at the end. 

Of his diary Font drew up several different versions : 

a. The "Diario, 6 borrador, que fui escriviendo en el camino" 
— which he wrote on the way ; it consisted of twenty pliegos, pre- 
sumably eighty pages. 

b. The report which upon his return he sent to the Colegio de 
Santa Cruz de Queretaro; it consisted of nine pliegos, presum- 
ably thirty-six pages, and "coyitenia lo principal de este Diario." 

c. The University of California manuscript here printed; it 
is dated at the mission of Ures, June 23, 1776, and consists of 
forty numbered leaves, seventy-nine written pages; it was based 
on a, in his own words, "sacado del borrador." Both at the 
beginning and end of this version he states that it was written 
at Ures in the month of June, 1776. 

d. The John Carter Brown Library manuscript; it is dated 
at the mission of Tubutama, May 11, 1777, is an expansion of a, 
and consists of 336 numbered pages. 

Of a and b no copies are available ; of c there are copies in the 
Archivo General at the city of Mexico, and in the Real Academia 
de la Historia at Madrid, there was formerly a copy in the 
"Parish Church" of Guadalajara, Jalisco, and in the archives 
at Monterey, California ; of d there is a contemporary copy in the 
Library of Congress. 

Following the opinion of Professor George Davidson, some 
writers have shown a tendency to identify a and c. In face, 
however, of Font's positive statement that the latter was written 
at Ures, that it shows evidence of having all been written at one 
time, and that d contains sketch drawings which are not in c, 
the identification seems to be unwarranted. To account for the 
discrepancy in size between c and d, it has been assumed further 
that d is Font's "full diary or report"; the date and circum- 
stances under which it was written remove the possibility of its 
having been intended as a report. The last version was due to 
the fact that subsequent to his arrival at the mission of Tubutama 
on December 31, 1776, Father Font found himself without an 
appointment or definite occupation, and in this situation he 

[4] 



Diary of Pedro Font. 5 

devoted himself to recopying his diary and elaborating it in detail. 
{En esta Mission me he mantenido desde entonccs, y por hallarme 
en ella sin especial ocupacion y destino, me he dedicado en sacar 
en limpio este Diario, que es puntualmente el mismo Diario, 6 
horrador, que fui escriviendo en el camino, con la diferencia que 
aquel solo consta de veinte pliegos, y este es mayor por haver 
puesto aqui algunos apuntes de aquel con alguna extension y 
claridad.) 

It is regrettable that the mapa mentioned on page 6, the 
planta ichnographica mentioned on page 18, and the plan men- 
tioned on page 72, no longer accompanied the Diary when the 
latter was acquired by the University of California. Fortunately, 
however, three maps drawn by Font to accompany his Diary 
have been most satisfactorily reproduced by the John Carter 
Brown Library in a volume entitled: San Francisco Bay and 
California in 1776; . . . with an explanation hy Irving Berdine 
Rjchman, Providence, Rhode Island, 1911. 

In the present publication Font's manuscript has been 
scrupulously followed — it is only necessary to point out that the 
letters and words printed in italics are not required by the sense, 
and that the characters < > have been used to indicate the 
extensive marginal additions to the original draft. 

F. J. T. 



[5] 



DIARIO DEL FRAY PEDRO FONT 



Diario que forma el P. Fr. Pedro Font Pdo'"Ap<=o del Colegio 
de la S** Cruz de Queretaro, saeado del borrador que eserivio en N 5 
el camino, del viage que hizo a ]\Ionterey y Puerto de S"^ Fran- 
cisco en Compaiiia del S'^ Theniente Coronel de Cavalleria Capi- 
tan del Presidio de Tubac, y Comandante de la expedicion de 
Conduccion de familias y soldados para el nuevo establecimiento 
de aquel Puerto, D'^ Juan Bautista de Anza, por orden y dis- 
posicion del Ex"^" S'* Theniente General Fr. D° Antonio Maria 
Bucareli, y Vrsua, Virrey, Governador, y Cap*^ Gen^ de esta 
Nueva Espana, comunicada al R<^° P. Guardian del Colegio de 
la S** Cruz de Queretaro Fr. Romualdo Cartagena por carta que 
le eseribio dada a 2. de Enero de 1775. y intimada a mi por 
dicho R. P. Guardian por carta, su fecha de 20. de Enero del 
mismo ano con eneargo de acompanar a dicho S"" Comandante 
en todo el viage y de observar las alturas del camino. 

Acompaiia a este diario un mapa de todo el viage, en el qual 
se senala con puntos el camino, se expressan por numeros las 
jornadas, y se distinguen por abececedario los lugares 6 parages 
particulares, de que se hace mencion en este diario. Todo hecho 
y trabajado de buelta del viage en esta Mission de Vres, por el 
mes de Junio del presente alio 1776. 

Advertencias 
Advierto que en las observaciones que pude hacer con el 
Quadrante Astronomico de la Expedicion, que traxo el S'" Coman- 
dante, calcule las alturas por unas tablas de D"^ Jorge Juan que 
casualmente pude adquirir, las quales por estar hechas para el 
meridiano de Cadiz, y para los afios de 1756. 1757. 1758. y 1759. 
necessitan de dos correcciones : y aunque las alturas que apunto, 

[6] 



DIARY OF PEDRO FONT 



Diary of Father Pedro Font, apostolic preacher of the Colegio 
de la Santa Cruz de Queretaro, copied from the notes that he kept 
on the way, of the journey which he made to Monterey and the 
port of San Francisco in company with Don Juan Bautista de 
Anza, lieutenant-colonel of cavalry, captain of the presidio of 
Tubac, and commander of the expedition for conducting families 
and soldiers to the new settlement at that port, by order and dis- 
position of His Excellency Frey Don Antonio Maria Bucareli y 
Ursua, lieutenant-general, viceroy, governor, and captain-general 
of Nueva Espaiia, communicated to the reverend father-guardian 
of the Colegio de la Santa Cruz de Queretaro, Father Romualdo 
Cartagena, by letter dated January 2, 1775, and made known to 
me by the father-guardian in letter dated January 20th of the 
same year, with instructions to accompany the said commander 
during the whole of the journey, and to take observations for 
latitude on the road. 

A map of the entire journey accompanies this diary; on it 
the road is marked by dots, the marches are expressed by numbers, 
and the particular spots or places mentioned in this diary are 
distinguished by letters of the alphabet. The whole done and 
executed, on the return from the expedition, at this mission of 
Ures, in the month of June of the present year, 1776. 

Remarks 

I wish to point out that in the observations that I was able to 
take with the astronomical quadrant belonging to the expedition, 
which the commander carried, I calculated the latitudes by some 
tables of Don Jorge Juan that, by chance, I was able to obtain. 
As these tables are for the meridian of Cadiz, and for the years 
1756, 1757, 1758, and 1759, they require two corrections; and 
although the latitudes I set down are in accordance with the 

[7] 



8 Academy op Pacific Coast History. 

estan segun las observaciones que hize y procurando emplear en 
las tablas las dos correceiones necessarias para el calculo ; expresso 
la altura meridiana del bordo inferior del sol que apunto dicho 
Quadrante en todas las observaciones para mayor satisfaccion de 
los inteligentes. 

Advierto tambien que en quanto a los rumbos del camino 
puedo haver tenido alguna equivoeacion por quanto no pude 
adquirir una brujula buena, y solo en S'^ Xavier del Bac pude 
lograr que se me prestasse de aquella mission una bruxula muy 
pequena y mala que apenas governaba: por lo qual aunque en 
quanto a los rumbos que apunto puse el mayor euydado ; no tengo 
de ellos total satisfaccion por falta de instrumento y aun he 
procurado corregirlos algo para sacar el mapa respecto a las 
alturas observadas. Finalmente advierto que en quanto a las 
leguas que apunto, las he calculado por una legua medida que 
anduve segun el passo de las marchas, y son leguas Mexicanas 
de cinco mil varas 6 tres mil passos geometricos, todas las que he 
regulado en el viage, de las quales 28, componen un grado de 
latitud por tierra, y por el ayre 23. y %. correspondientes a las 
17. y 1/2 espanolas por el ayre y 21. por tierra, que componen 
un grado segun el P. <Tosca tom. 8. trat. 24. lib. 1. cap. 4. prop. 
23. las quales constan de quatro mil passos geometricos 6 6666 
varas y % o pies segun el P. Flores en su Clave Geografica cap. 
3. § 3. num. 125.> 



[8] 



Diary of Pedeo Font. 9 

observations that I made, endeavoring to employ in the tables 
the two corrections necessary for the calculation, I record in all 
the observations the meridian altitude of the lower limb of the 
sun, as given by the quadrant, for the greater satisfaction of 
the learned. 

I wish to state, furthermore, that there may have been some 
inaccuracy regarding the directions of the roads because I was 
unable to get a good compass, and could only obtain a poor, small 
one, which hardly worked, as a loan from San Xavier del Bac. 
For this reason, although I used the greatest care in observing 
the directions which I set down, I am not entirely satisfied with 
them on account of the defective instrument, and have even tried 
to correct them in order to make the map in accordance with the 
latitudes observed. 

Finally, I wish to state regarding the leagues which I set down, 
that I have calculated them according to a measured league which 
I walked at a marching pace; they are Mexican leagues of five 
thousand yards or three thousand geometric paces — all of which 
I estimated on the journey. Twenty-eight such leagues consti- 
tute one degree by land or twenty-three and one-third in an 
air-line, corresponding to the seventeen and one-half Spanish 
leagues by land or twenty-one in an air-line, which constitute a 
degree according to Father Tosea, volume 8, tractate 24, book 1, 
chapter 4, prop. 23. Spanish leagues consist of four thousand 
geometric paces or 6666 yards and % or [2] feet, according to 
Father Flores in his Clave Geogrdfica, chapter 3, section 3, 
number 125. 



[9] 



10 Academy of Pacific Coast History. 

jornadas Dj^ 29. de Setiembre de 1775. Junta ya lo mas de la gente, Leguas 
1 requas, y cavallada de la Expedicion, cuyo numero no apunto 
por no haver podido lograr saberlo. se canto la missa para el 
feliz viage a la SS™^ Virgen de Guadalupe que fue elegida por 
nuestra patrona, con el Principe S° Miguel, y N. P. S*^ Fran- 
cisco, y despues de missa se empezo a disponer la marcha, que 
por ser el primer dia no se efectuo hasta las quatro y media de 
la tarde que salimos del Presidio de S" Miguel de Orcasitas y 
poco despues de las cinco paramos cerca del rio al otro lado 
haviendo caminado una legua corta con rumbo al noroeste. i 

Dia 30. Salimos del cerca del rio de S° Miguel a las nueve 
2 

de la mailana y despues de medio dia llegamos al parage de 

Chupisonora, haviendo caminado unas quatro leguas, con rumbo 4 

al nornoroeste. 

Dia 1. de Octubre nos detuvimos por no haver Uegado una 

requa que ayer se atrasso. 

3 Dia 2. Salimos de Chupisonora a las dos de la tarde, y a las 

seys llegamos al parage de la Palma, haviendo caminado cinco 5 
leguas, con rumbo al nornoroeste. 

. Dia 3. Salimos de la Palma a las siete y tres quartos de la 

mauana, y cerca la una de la tarde llegamos al parage del Charco 
del Canelo, haviendo caminado seys leguas, con rumbo al nor- 6 
noroeste. 

Dia 4. Salimos del Charco del Canelo, a las siete y media, 
de la maiiana, y a la una de la tarde paramos en el Puerto de 
los Conejos, haviendo caminado, unas seys leguas largas, con q 
rumbo al nornoroeste. 

g Dia 5. Salimos del Puerto de los Conejos a las ocho y media 
de la manana, y a las dos de la tarde paramos en el Charco de 
Gauna, haviendo caminado unas siete leguas largas, con rumbo 7 
al nornoroeste. 

y Dia 6. Salimos del Charco de Gauna a las ocho y media de 

la maiiana, y al medio dia llegamos a orillas del rio del Pueblo de 
S^* Ana, haviendo caminado cinco leguas, con rumbo al nor- 5 
noroeste. 

Dia 7. Nos detuvimos por haverse quedado atras tres sol- 
dados buscando unas mulas cargadas. Observe la altura de este 



[10] 



Diary of Pedro Font. . 11 

September 29, 1775. — ]\Io.st of the people, pack-animals, and 1775 
horses of the expedition now being collected — the number of "^T^ 
them I do not put down, as I did not succeed in ascertaining it — 
the mass to the ^lost Blessed Virgin of Guadalupe was sung for 
a successful journey. Here we chose for our patron, together 
wuth the archangel St. Michael, and St. Francis, our father. 
After mass, preparations were completed for the march, which 
was not begun until half -past four in the afternoon, as this was 
the fii-st day. We set out from the presidio of San Miguel de 
Horcasitas, and, a little after five, halted near the river on the 
other side, having travelled one short league to the northwest. 

September 30. — "We set out from the vicinity of the Rio de 
San Miguel at nine in the morning, and arrived, after midday, 
at Chupisonora, having travelled some four leagues to the north- 
northwest. 

October 1. — We remained here today, because some pack- Oct. 
animals which were delayed yesterday did not arrive. 

October 2. — We set out from Chupisonora at two in the after- 
noon, and, at six, arrived at La Palma, having travelled five 
leagues to the north-northwest. 

October 3. — We set out from La Palma at a quarter to eight 
in the morning, and, about one in the afternoon, arrived at the 
Charco del Canelo, having travelled six leagues to the north- 
northwest. 

October 4. — We set out from the Charco del Canelo at half- 
past seven in the morning, and, at one in the afternoon, halted 
in the Puerto de los Conejos, having travelled some six long 
leagues to the north-northwest. 

October 5. — We set out from the Puerto de los Conejos at 
half-past eight in the morning, and, at two in the afternoon, 
halted at the Charco de Gauna, having travelled some seven long 
leagues to the north-northwest. 

October 6. — We set out from the Charco de Gauna at half- 
past eight in the morning, and, at noon, arrived at the banks of 
the river of the town of Santa Ana, having travelled five leagues 
to the north-northwest. 

October 7. — We remained here, becau.se three soldiers had to 
stay behind to look for some loaded mules. I observed the lati- 

[11] 



12 Academy op Pacific Coast History. 

jornadas Pueblo COD cl Quadrante astronomico de la expedicion y lo halle ^eguas 
en 30? 38: I/2. Y assi digo : En el Pueblo de Santa Ana dia 7. 
de Oetubre de 1775 : Altura meridiana del bordo inferior del sol 
53? 28: 
g Dia 8. Salimos del Pueblo de S'* Ana a las nueve y media 
de la manana, y a las dos de la tarde paramos en S** Maria Mada- 
lena, Pueblo de Visita de la Mission de S"^ Ygnacio haviendo 
eaminado unas seys leguas, eon rumbo al nordeste quarta al este. 6 
9 Dia 9. Salimos del Pueblo de S''^ Maria Madalena a las 
nueve de la maiiana, y a las diez y media llegamos a la Mission 
de S'^ Ygnacio, haviendo eaminado dos leguas, con rumbo al 2 
nordeste quarta al este. 

Dia 10. Nos detuvimos en esta mission para componerse unas 
cargas de bastimento. Observe la altura de esta Mission, y la 
halle en 30? 47: I/2. Y assi digo : En la Mission de San Ygnacio, 
dia 10. de Oetubre de 1775 : Altura meridiana del bordo inferior 
del sol: 52? 10: 

10 Dia 11. Salimos de S"^ Ygnacio a las diez y media de la 
maiiana, y a la una y media de la tarde paramos a la orilla del 
rio, al otro lado mas alia del Pueblo de Ymuris, visita de S° 
Ygnacio, haviendo eaminado quatro leguas al nornordeste. 4 

Dia 12. Salimos del rio del Pueblo de Ymuris a las ocho y 
media de la maiiana, y a la una de la tarde paramos en el Guam- 
but antes de entrar en el caxon haviendo eaminado quatro leguas 4 
con rumbo al nornoroeste. 

Dia 13. Salimos del Guambut a las ocho de la manana, y a 
la una de la tarde paramos en el Sibuta haviendo eaminado 
quatro leguas con rumbo al norte y muy despacio en el caxon 4 
del Guambut por ser passo de riesgo de apaches. 

,g Dia 14. Salimos del Sibuta a las ocho de la maiiana, y a las 
tres de la tarde paramos en el parage llamado las Lagunas, 
haviendo eaminado unas ocho leguas largas eon el rumbo quatro 8 
al noroeste y quatro al nornoroeste. 



[12] 



Diary of Pedro Font. 13 

tude of this town with the astronomical quadrant of the expedi- 1775 
tion and found it to be 30° SSi/o' ; so I say : In the town of Santa ^^^ 
Ana, October 7, 1775, meridian altitude of the lower limb of the 
sun, 53° 28'. 

October 8. — "We set out from the town of Santa Ana at half- 
past nine in the morning, and, at two in the afternoon, halted 
at Santa ]\Iaria Magdalena, a town of visitation from the mission 
of San Ignacio, having travelled some six leagues, northeast by- 
east. 

October 9. — We set out from the town of Santa Maria Mag- 
dalena at nine in the morning, and, at half-past ten, arrived at 
the mission of San Ignacio, having travelled two leagues, north- 
east by east. 

October 10. — We remained at this mission in order to re- 
arrange some packs of provisions. I observed the latitude of this 
mission and found it to be 30° 47i^' ; so I say : In the mission 
of San Ignacio, October 10, 1775, meridian altitude of the lower 
limb of the sun, 52° 10'. 

October 11. — We set out from San Ignacio at half-past ten 
in the morning, and, at half-past one in the afternoon, halted 
beside the river, on the farther bank from the town of Imuris, 
a place of visitation from San Ignacio, having travelled four 
leagues to the north-northeast. 

October 12. — We set out from the river of the town of Imuris 
at half-past eight in the morning, and, at one in the afternoon, 
halted at El Guambut, before entering the canyon, having trav- 
elled four leagues to the north-northwest. 

October 13. — We set out from El Guambut at eight in the 
morning, and, at one in the afternoon, halted at El Sibuta, having 
travelled four leagues to the north, and very slowly through the 
canyon of El Guambut, as it is a dangerous pass on account of 
the Apaches. 

October 14. — We set out from El Sibuta at eight in the 
morning, and, at three in the afternoon, halted at a place called 
Las Lagunas, having travelled some eight long leagues : four to 
the northwest and four to the north-northwest. 



[13] 



14 Academy of Pacific Coast History. 

jornadas Dia 15. Salimos de las Lagunas a las ocho de la manana, y ^eguas 
, . a las dos de la tarde llegamos al Presidio de Tubac, haviendo 
caminado unas oclio leguas, con el rumbo al norte. 8 

Dia 16. Nos detuvimos unos dias en Tubac, (yo en la Mission 
de Tumacacori, distante del Presidio una legua al sur) para 
prevenir lo necessario para la prosecucion del viage, y acabar de 
juntarse la gente que havia de ir a la expedicion. 

Dia 17. Se ocupo en esse negocio. 

Dia 18. Se empleo en lo mismo. 

Dia 19. Se gasto en lo mismo. 

Dia 20. Se passo del mismo modo. 

Dia 21. Fui al Presidio de Tubac en compania del P. Fr. 
Francisco Garces, y su companero el P. Fr. Thomas Eixarch, que 
se agregaron con nosotros para quedarse en el Rio Colorado a 
explorar las voluntades de aquellas Naciones que habitan en sus 
vegas, segun lo dispuesto por el Ex™° S'' Virrey. Observe la 
altura de este Presidio ; pero por estar el dia opaco no quede satis- 
fecho de la observacion. 

Dia 22. Se canto la missa para el feliz viage de la expedi- 
cion. Bolvi a observar por ser el dia claro, y halle a este Pre- 
sidio en altura de 31? 43: Y assi digo: En el Presidio de Tubac, 
dia 22. de Octubre de 1775 : Altura meridiana del bordo inferior 
del sol: 46° 50: Se acabo de juntar la gente, que havia de ir a 
la expedicion, requas, cavallada, y ganado, de cuyas partidas no 
apunto el numero, porque no pude lograr saberlo, y se determino 
proseguir el viage el dia siguiente. 

Dia 23. Salimos de Tubac a las onze de la maiiana, y a las 
tres y media de la tarde paramos en el parage llamado la Canoa, 
haviendo caminado unas cinco leguas, con el rumbo nornordeste. 5 
Esta noche pario una muger de un soldado, y se murio de sobre- 
parto, y al otro dia se llevo a enterrar <i la Mission de S'^ Xavier 
del Bac. 

Dia 24. Salimos de la canoa a las dos de la tarde, y a las 
cinco paramos en la Punta de los llanos, haviendo caminado tres 
leguas con el rumbo al nornordeste. 



[14] 



15 



16 



Diary op Pedro Font. 15 

October 15. — We set out from Las Lagunas at eight in the 1775 
morning, and, at two in the afternoon, arrived at the presidio g^^ 
of Tnbae, having travelled some eight leagues to the north. 

October 16. — We remained at Tubac for some days, (I in 
the mission of Tumacaeori, one league south of the presidio), 
in order to make the necessary preparations for continuing the 
journey, and to assemble the people who were to go on the 
expedition. 

October 17. — Occupied in that business. 

October 18. — Employed in the same way. 

October 19. — Spent in the same way. 

October 20. — Passed in the same manner. 

October 21. — I went to the presidio of Tubac with Father 
Francisco Garces and his companion Father Tomas Eixarch, who 
joined us, as they were going — by order of His Excellency the 
Viceroy — to remain at the Eio Colorado to observe the disposition 
of the nations inhabiting its valley. I observed the latitude of this 
presidio, but was not satisfied with the observation, as the day 
was overcast. 

October 22. — The mass was sung for the success of the 
expedition. As the day was clear, I again observed the latitude, 
and found this presidio to be in 31° 43' ; so I say : In the presidio 
of Tubac, October 22, 1775, meridian altitude of the lower limb 
of the sun, 46° 50'. The people, pack-animals, horses, and cattle 
which were to go on the expedition were finally gathered together 
— the different numbers of these I do not set down, as I did not 
succeed in ascertaining them — and it was determined to con- 
tinue the journey on the following day. 

October 23. — We set out from Tubac at eleven in the morn- 
ing, and, at half-past three in the afternoon, halted at the place 
called La Canoa, having travelled some five leagues to the north- 
northeast. This night the wife of a soldier was delivered; she 
died in childbed, and the next day was taken to the mission of 
San Xavier del Bac for burial. 

October 24. — We set out from La Canoa at two in the after- 
noon, and, at five, halted at the Punta de los Llanos, having 
travelled three leagues to the north-northeast. 



[15] 



18 



19 



16 Academy of Pacific Coast History. 

jornadas Dia 25. Salimos de la Punta de los llanos a las ocho y media ^^^^ 
jy de la manana, y a la una de la tarde Uegamos a la Mission de San 
Xavier del Bac, de la qual es Ministro el P. Fr. Francisco Garces, 
haviendo caminado seys leguas largas, con el rumbo al norte, „ 
quarta al nordeste. 

Dia 26. Salimos de la mission de San Xavier del Bac, a las 
ocho y media de la maiiana, y a la una de la tarde paramos a una 
legua fuera del Pueblo de Tuquison, visita de la Mission de S'^ 
Xavier del Bac, y ultimo Pueblo de la Christiandad por este 
rumbo, haviendo caminado quatro leguas, muy largas por el 4 
rodeo que se hizo, con el rumbo quasi al norte. 

Dia 27. Observe este parage de Tuquison, y lo halle en 
altura de 32? 22: Y assi digo: En el Pueblo de Tuquison, una 
legua al norte fuera de el, dia 27. de Octubre de 1775: Altura 
meridiana del bordo inferior del sol : 44? 26: Salimos del pueblo 
de Tuquison a la una de la tarde, y poco antes de las seys paramos 
en un llano a vista de una sierra aspera y baxa, llamada por los 
Yndios La frente negra, y antes de entrar en un puerto que 
llamaron el Puerto del azotado, haviendo caminado cinco leguas, 5 
con el rumbo, eomo dos al nornoroeste, y lo restante al noroeste. 

Dia 28. Salimos del Llano del Puerto del azotado, a las ocho 
y quarto de la manana, y a la una y media de la tarde paramos 
en el parage de unas lagunas, que llaman los Yndios Oytaparts, 
haviendo caminado seys leguas largas con el rumbo al oestnor- q 
oeste, y a ratos quasi al oeste. 
21 Dia 29. Salimos de las Lagunas de Oytaparts a la una de la 
tarde, y a las cinco y quarto paramos un poco mas alia de un 
picacho, que los Yndios llaman Tacca haviendo caminado unas 
cinco leguas, con el rumbo eomo dos al noroeste, y lo restante al 5 
nornoroeste. Muy de manana se despacharon unos Yndios, a 
dar aviso de nuestra venida a los Pimas del rio Gila. Se publico 
despues de missa un bando, en que se mandaban cosas condu- 
centes al mejor porte de la gente. 

Dia 30. Salimos del Cerro de Tacca a las ocho de la manana, 
y a las cinco y media de la tarde Uegamos cerca del rio Gila y 
paramos en una Laguna algo distante de el, haviendo caminado 
unas doze leguas, con el rumbo eomo seys al noroeste tres al nor- 12 



[16] 



20 



22 



Oct. 



Diary of Pedro Font. 17 

October 25. — We set out from the Punta de los Llanos at yj'j^ 
half-past eight in the morning, and, at one in the afternoon, 
arrived at the mission of San Xavier del Bac, of which Father 
Francisco Garces is minister, having travelled six long leagues, 
north by east. 

October 26. — We set out from the mission of San Xavier del 
Bac at half-past eight in the morning, and, at one in the after- 
noon, halted at a distance of one league from the town of 
Tuquison, a place of visitation from the mission of San Xavier 
del Bac, and the last Christian town in this direction, having 
travelled four very long leagues, on account of the circuit that 
was made, in a direction almost north. 

October 27. — I observed the latitude of Tuquison, and found 
it to be 32° 22' ; so I say : One league north of the town of 
Tuquison, October 27, 1775, meridian altitude of the lower limb 
of the sun, 44° 26'. We set out from the town of Tuquison at 
one in the afternoon, and, a little before six, halted in a plain 
within sight of a low, rugged range, called La Frente Negra by 
the Indians, and before entering a pass called the Puerto del 
Azotado, having travelled five leagues: about two to the north- 
northwest and the remainder northwest. 

October 28. — We set out from the Llano del Puerto del 
Azotado at a quarter past eight in the morning, and, at half- 
past one in the afternoon, halted at some ponds, called Oitaparts 
by the Indians, having travelled six long leagues to the north- 
northwest, occasionally almost west. 

October 29. — We set out from the Lagunas de Oitaparts at 
one in the afternoon, and, at a quarter past five, halted a little 
beyond a sharp peak that the Indians call Tacca, having travelled 
some five leagues : about two to the northwest and the remainder 
to the north-northwest. Very early in the morning some Indians 
were sent to notify the Pimas of the Rio Gila of our coming. 
After mass a proclamation was made prescribing rules tending 
to the better conduct of the people. 

October 30. — We set out from the Cerro de Tacca at eight 
in the morning, and, at half-past five in the afternoon, arrived 
near the Rio Gila, and halted at a pond some distance from it, 
having travelled some twelve leagues : about six to the north- 

[17] 



18 Academy of Pacific Coast History. 

noroeste y al ultimo unas tres quasi al norte. Con el recado que 
ayeT se envio, salieron al camino a recibirnos el Governador de las 
rancherias de Papagos Aquituni y Cuytoa, y el Governador de 
Vturituc, Pueblo del rio Gila, con su Alcalde, acompaiiado del 
Governador de Sutaquison, y otros yndios todos a eavallo, los 
quales se apearon para sahidarnos, y presentaron a los soldados 
dos cabelleras de Apaches que mataron el dia antecedente, eon 
quienes tienen guerra continua, y luego montaron a eavallo y nos 
acompanaron hasta el parage. Preguntaban si veniamos ya a 
vivir con ellos y bautizar la gente, lo que parece desean mucho ; y 
se manifestaron muy alegres por nuestra llegada. 

Dia 31. Determino el S'" Comandante que descansara oy la 
gente, y con esto tuvimos lugar de ir a registrar la casa grande 
que llaman de Moctezuma, situada a una legua del rio Gila y 
distante del parage de la Laguna, unas tres leguas al estsudeste, 
a donde fuimos acompanados de algunos Yndios y del Governa- 
dor de Vturituc, quien en el camino nos conto una historia y 
tradicion que conservan de sus passados sobre dicha casa, que 
toda se reduce a patranas mescladas confusamente con algunas 
verdades catolicas. Observe este parage de la casa grande, 
seualado en el mapa eon la letra A y lo halle en 33? 3: %. Y assi 
digo : En la casa grande del Rio Gila, dia 31. de Octubre de 1775 : 
Altura meridiana del bordo inferior del Sol : 42? 25: Registramos 
con todo cuydado este edificio, y sus vestigios, cuya planta iehno- 
graphica es la que aqui pongo, y para su mejor inteligencia doy 
la descripcion y explicacion siguiente. La casa grande 6 Palacio 
de Moctezuma tendra de fundacion unos 500. anos, segun las 
historias, y escassas noticias que hay de ello y dan los Yndios; 
porque segun parece, esta fundacion la hicieron los Mexicanos, 
quando en su transmigracion los llevaba el demonio por varias 
tierras, hasta llegar a la tierra prometida de Mexico, y en sus 
mansiones, que eran largas, formaban poblacion y edificios. El 
sitio en donde se halla esta casa es llano por todas partes y apar- 
tado del rio Gila como una legua, y las ruinas de las casas que 



[18] 



Diary of Pedro Font. 19 

west, three to the north-northwest, and, at the end, some three 1775 
almost due north. In consequence of the message sent j^esterday, ""^^ 
there came out to meet us on the road, the governor of the Papago 
villages, Aquituni and Cuitoa, and the governor of Uturituc, 
a town on the Rio Gila, with the alcalde, accompanied by the 
governor of Sutaquison and other Indians — all on horseback. 
They alighted to salute us, and presented to the soldiers the 
scalps of two Apaches whom they had killed the day before — 
with the Apaches they are continually at war. Afterwards, they 
mounted their horses and accompanied us to the stopping-place. 
They inquired if we had now come to live among them and to 
baptize the people, which, it seems, they eagerly desire, and 
showed themselves very much elated at our arrival. 

October 31. — The commander decided that the people should 
rest today, and so we had an opportunity to go and examine the 
house that is called La Casa Grande de INIoctezuma, situated one 
league from the Rio Gila and some three leagues to the east- 
southeast of La Laguna. We were accompanied there by several 
Indians and by the governor of Uturituc, who told us on the 
way a tale and tradition regarding the house, handed down from 
their forefathers, all of which is nothing but fables mixed con- 
fusedly with truths of the catholic faith. I observed the latitude 
of the Casa Grande — marked on the map with the letter A — and 
found it to be 33° 3I/2'; so I say: At the Casa Grande of the 
Rio Gila, October 31, 1775, meridian altitude of the lower limb 
of the sun, 42° 25'. We examined the building and its ruins 
with the greatest care — I here insert the ichnographical plan of 
it, and for the better understanding of this give the following 
description and explanation. The great house or palace of Moete- 
zuma, according to the stories and meagre accounts which there 
are of it, and what the Indians say, may have been built some five 
hundred years ago. It seems that this place was founded by the 
Mexicans when, during their migration, the devil led them 
through various countries until they arrived at the promised 
land of Mexico, and in their sojourns, which were long, they 
formed communities and erected buildings. The site of this 
house is level on all sides, and is about one league from the Rio 
Gila; and the ruins of the houses which constituted the town 

[19] 



20 Academy of Pacific Coast History. 

formaban la poblacion, se estienden mas de una legua para el 
Oriente y demas vientos; y todo este terreno esta sembrado de 
pedazos de ollas jarros platos &c. unos ordinaries y otros pinta- 
dos de varios colores bianco azul Colorado &c. indicio de que fue 
poblacion crecida y de distincta gente de los Pimas Gileiios pues 
estos no saben hacer semejante losa. Hicimos exacta inspeccion 
del edificio, y de su situacion, y lo medimos con una lanza, por lo 
pronto, cuya medida reduxe despues a pies geometricos y a poco 
mas 6 menos es la siguiente. Esta la casa quadrilonga y perfecta- 
mente a los quatro vientos cardinales este, oeste, norte, y sur, y 
al rededor estan unas ruinas que indican algun cerco 6 muralla 
que eneerraba a la casa y otros edifieios, particularmente en las 
esquinas, en donde parece havia alguna fabrica como castillo 
interior 6 atalaya, pues en la esquina que cae al sudoeste hay un 
pedazo en pie con sus divisiones y un alto. La cerca exterior 
tiene de norte a sur 420. pies : y de este a oeste 260. Lo interior 
de la casa se compone de sinco salas : las tres iguales en medio y 
una en cada extremo mas largas. Las tres salas tienen de norte 
a sur 26. pies : y de este a oeste 10. Las dos salas de los extremes 
tienen de norte a sur 12. pies : y de este a oeste 38. Las salas 
tienen de alto unos 11. pies y todas son iguales. Las puertas de 
comunicacion tienen de alto 5. pies, y de ancho 2. y son quasi 
iguales todas, excepto las quatro primeras de las quatro entradas, 
que parece eran otro tanto anchas. Lo gruesso de las paredes 
interiores 4. pies ; y estan bien enjarradas : y de las exteriores 6. 
pies. La casa tiene por lo exterior de norte a sur 70 pies : y de 
este a oeste 50. Las paredes estan escarpadas por de fuera. 
Delante la puerta del oriente separada de la casa hay otra pieza, 
que tiene de norte a sur 26. pies, y de este a oeste 18. sin el gruesso 
de las paredes. El maderage era de pino por lo que se ve, y la 
sierra mas cercana que tiene pinos dista unas 25. leguas ; y tam- 
bien tiene algo de mezquite[.] Todo el edificio es de tierra, y 
segun las seiiales, es tapia fabricada con caxones de varios tama- 
fios. Viene del rio y de bien lexos una azequia muy grande eon 
que se socorria de agua la poblacion, y esta ya muy cegada. Por 



[20] 



Diary op Pedro Font. 21 

extend more than a league toward the east, and the other ear- 1775 
dinal points. The whole of this ground is strewn with pieces of ^^^ 
pots, jars, plates, etc., some common and others painted different 
colors — white, blue, red, etc., which shows that this was an exten- 
sive community, and of a different stock from the Pimas of the Rio 
Gila, who do not know how to make such earthenware. We made 
an exact survey of the building, and of its situation, measuring 
it with a lance, for the moment, and this measurement, after- 
wards reduced to geometrical feet, is, more or less, as follows: 
The house is an oblong, perfectly oriented to the four cardinal 
points, east, west, north, south, and surrounding it lie ruins 
indicating a defense or wall which inclosed the house and other 
buildings, particularly at the corners, where there appears to 
have been some structure like an interior castle or watch-tower, 
for, in the corner that lies to the southwest, a piece of it stands 
with its divisions and an upper story. The exterior circuit 
measures 420 feet from north to south, and 260 feet from east to 
west. The interior of the house consists of five halls — the three 
middle ones are alike, and one at each end somewhat larger. The 
three halls measure 26 feet from north to south, and 10 feet from 
east to west. The two halls on the end measure 12 feet from north 
to south, and 38 feet from east to west. The halls have a height 
of about 11 feet, and are all alike. The communicating door- 
ways are 5 feet high and 2 feet wide, and are all about equal; 
except the first four, belonging to the four entrances, which 
appear to have been of double width. The interior walls are 
4 feet thick, and are well plastered, and the exterior walls 6 feet. 
On the outside, the house measures 70 feet from north to south, 
and 50 feet from east to west. The walls are sloping on the out- 
side. Before the eastern doorway, and separated from the house, 
there is another room measuring 26 feet from north to south, 
and 18 feet from east to west — not including the thickness of the 
walls. The timber, it appears, was pine — and the nearest moun- 
tains that grow pine are some 25 leagues distant — and there was 
also some mesquit. The whole building is of earth, and, judging 
from the remains, the walls were made with molds of various 
sizes. A very large conduit which supplied the town with water 
comes a great distance from [up] the river; it is now almost in- 

[21] 



22 Academy of Pacific Coast History. 

jornadas fiji se conoce Que tenia el edificio tres altos, y si es verdad lo que Leguas 
se pudo rastrear de los Yndios y por los indicios que se vieron, 
tenia quatro profundizando el piso de la casa a modo de pieza 
subterranea. Para dar luz a las piezas no se ven mas que las 
puertas y unos agujeros redondos en medio de las paredes que 
miran al oriente y poniente y dixeron los Yndios que por aquellos 
agujeros (que son algo grandes) miraba el Principe, que ellos 
llaman el hombre amargo, al Sol quando salia y se ponia para 
saludarlo. No se hallaron rastros de escaleras, por lo que juzga- 
mos que eran de madera, y se destruyeron eon la quemazon que 
padecio el edificio por los Apaches. 

Dia 1. de Noviembre. Salimos de la Laguna a las nueve y 

23 . o ./ 

media de la manana, y a la una de la tarde llegamos al Pueblo de 
San Juan Capistrano de Vturituc, haviendo caminado quatro 4 
leguas, con el rumbo al oestnoroeste. Nos recibieron los Yndios, 
que regule como mil almas, puestos en dos filas, los hombres de un 
lado y las mugeres del otro, y haviendonos apeado, vinieron todos 
por su turno a saludarnos y darnos la mano, primero los hombres 
y luego las mugeres, manifestando mucho contento de vemos ; y 
nos hospedaron en una gran ramada que hicieron para esse fin, 
delante la qual plantar on una cruz grande aunque gentiles, y 
luego traxeron agua al real para la gente. 

Dia 2. Diximos los tres Religiosos nueve missas por ser dia 
de animas. Salimos del Pueblo de Vturituc a las onze de la maiiana, 
y como a las tres de la tarde paramos a orillas del rio Gila cerca el 
Pueblo de la Encarnacion de Sutaquison haviendo caminado unas 
quatro leguas, con rumbo al oeste quarta al noroeste. Salieron 4 
a recibirnos y saludarnos con demonstraciones de mucha alegria 
los yndios del Pueblo que regule como de quinientas almas. <En 
el eamino passamos por otros dos pueblos. > 

Dia 3. Salimos del Pueblo de Sutaquison a las nueve y tres 
quartos de la maiiana, y a medio dia llegamos a una laguna de 
agua mala, que por havernos enfermado algunos en ella, la llama- 
mos la Laguna del Hospital, haviendo caminado dos leguas con el 2 
rumbo casi al noroeste. Como al poniente de este parage esta una 
sierra que va para el norte y remata a cosa de tres leguas, en cuyo 



[22] 



25 



Diary op Pedro Font. 23 

distinguishable. Finally, it can be seen that the building was of 1775 
three stories, and if there is any truth in what we could elicit ^^^ 
from the Indians, and from the vestiges that we saw, it had four, 
the floor of the house being deepened into a cellar. To light the 
rooms there is nothing but the doors, and some round holes in 
the middle of the walls that face east and west — the Indians said 
that through these holes, which are fairly large, the prince, whom 
they call ''the bitter man," used to watch the sun at its rising 
and setting in order to salute it. No signs of stairs remain, and 
we therefore suppose that they must have been of wood, and that 
they were destroyed when the Apaches set the buildings on fire. 

November 1. — We set out from La Laguna at half -past nine iVov. 
in the morning, and, at one in the afternoon, arrived at the town 
of San Juan Capistrano de Uturituc, having travelled four 
leagues to the west-northwest. The Indians, whom I estimated 
at about a thousand souls, received us drawn up in two files — 
the men on one side and the women on the other — and when we 
alighted, they all came in turn to salute us and to give us their 
hands — first the men, and then the women — and manifested great 
pleasure at seeing us. They lodged us in a large shelter of 
boughs that they constructed on purpose, and, heathen as they 
were, planted a large cross in front of it, and then brought water 
to the camp for the people. 

November 2. — This being All Souls' Day, we, the three 
religious, said nine masses. We set out from the town of Uturi- 
tuc at eleven o'clock in the morning, and, about three in the 
afternoon, halted at the banks of the Rio Gila, near the town 
of Encarnacion de Sutaquison, having travelled some four 
leagues, west by north. The Indians of the town, whom I estim- 
ated at about five hundred souls, came out to receive and salute 
us with demonstrations of great pleasure. On the way, we passed 
through two other towns. 

November 3. — We set out from the town of Sutaquison at 
a quarter to ten in the morning, and, at noon, arrived at a pond 
of bad water, (as some of us were made sick by it, we gave it 
the name of Laguna del Hospital), having travelled two leagues 
almost northwest. Toward the west of this place there is a moun- 
tain range which runs to the north, and ends at a distance of 

[23] 



24 Academy of Pacific Coast History. 

remate se junta mas abajo el rio Gila con el rio de la Assumpcion ^®^*^ 
que es grande, y unos tres tantos mayor que el Gila. 

Dia 4. Por ser dia de San Carlos y fiesta de nuestro Monarca 
eantamos la missa con la solemnidad possible. Sobre medio dia se 
dispuso el marchar y no se hizo por haverse enfermado una muger. 

Dia 5. Nos detuvimos por no poder seguir la enferma ; y al 
anochecer se enfermo otra. Observe la altura de este parage, y 
lo halle en 33? 14: i/2- ^ assi digo : En la Laguna del Hospital, 
dia 5. de Noviembre de 1775 : Altura meridiana del bordo in- 
ferior del Sol : 40? 40: 

Dia 6. Siguieron malas las enfermas, por cuyo motivo nos 
detuvimos : y a medio dia cayo otra ; y yo, a mas de la enf ermedad 
con que venia, oy empeze con las tercianas. 

26 Dia 7. Amanecieron aliviadas las enfermas. Salimos de la 
Laguna del Hospital a la una de la tarde y a las seys y quarto 
paramos en un Arroyo seco, haviendo caminado unas seys leguas 6 
con rumbo como una al sudoeste, dos al oestsudoeste y lo restante 

al oeste. 

27 Dia 8. Salimos del Arroyo seco a las ocho y media de la 
manana, y a las quatro de la tarde paramos a la orilla del rio, en 
la Poblacion de Opas llamada San Simon y Judas de Vparsoytae, 
haviendo caminado unas nueve leguas, con rumbo, dos al oestsud- 
oeste, una al oeste para passar un puerto de una serrania, y lo 
restante al oestsudoeste con alguna declinacion al oeste. Estos 
Yndios Opas de Vparsoytae, cuyos enemigos que les hacian guerra 
son los de la nacion llamada Nanaxi y confina con los Apaches, 
se manifestaron muy mansos, y nos recibieron bien. 

Dia 9. Haviendo llegado la cavallada muy estropeada de la 
Jornada de ayer, por haver salido enferma de la Laguna del hos- 
pital se determino descansar oy. Se repartio abalorio y tabaco a 
los Yndios, y regule que se juntarian como mil almas. 



[24] 



Diary of Pedro Font. 25 

three leagues ; beyond this termination, and farther down stream, 1775 
the Rio Gila joins with the Rio de la Asuncion, which is large, ^^ 
and about three times as great as the Gila. 

November 4. — This being the day of San Carlos, and the 
festival of our monarch, we sang the mass with all possible 
solemnity. It was decided to march after midday, but this was 
not done as a woman fell sick. 

November 5. — We remained here because the sick woman 
could not proceed; and at nightfall another was taken ill. I 
observed the latitude of this place and found it to be 33° 14i/^' ; 
so I say : At the Laguna del Hospital, November 5, 1775, meridian 
altitude of the lower limb of the sun, 40° 40'. 

November 6. — The women patients continued ailing, conse- 
quently we remained here. At noon another woman fell sick; 
and I myself, in addition to the ailment that I had previously, 
was taken today with the ague. 

November 7. — This morning the sick women were feeling 
better. We set out from the Laguna del Hospital at one o'clock 
in the afternoon, and, at a quarter past six, halted at a dry 
watercourse, having travelled some six leagues: about one to the 
southwest, two to the west-southwest, and the remainder to the 
west. 

November 8. — We set out from the dry watercourse at half- 
past eight in the morning, and, at four o'clock in the afternoon, 
halted beside the river, in the Opa town called San Simon y 
Judas de Uparsoitac, having travelled some nine leagues : two to 
the west-southwest, one to the west (in order to pass through a 
gap in the range), and the remainder to the west-southwest with 
some deviation to the west. These Opa Indians of Uparsoitac, 
— whose enemies that Avere making war upon them are called 
Nanaxi and are neighbors of the Apaches — showed themselves 
very docile, and received us well. 

November 9. — The horses arrived very lame from yesterday's 
march, as they were sick when they left the Laguna del Hos- 
pital ; it was decided, therefore, to rest today. Beads and tobacco 
were distributed to the Indians — I estimated that they numbered 
about a thousand souls. 



[25] 



28 



29 



30 



31 



26 Academy op Pacific Coast History. 

joraadas Dia 10. Nos detuvimos por haver amanecido muy mala una Leguas 
muger y un soldado. 

Dia 11. Salimos de la Poblacion de Vparsoytac a las diez 
de la manana, y cerca de medio dia llegamos a unas rancherias 
de Opas situadas a orillas del rio, haviendo eaminado unas dos ^ 
leguas eortas, con el rumbo al oeste. 

Dia 12. Salimos de las rancherias de Opas, a las nueve y 
media de la manana, y a las dos de la tarde paramos a orillas del 
rio en unos ranchos, que por ser dia de San Diego los llamamos, 
la Raneheria de San Diego, haviendo eaminado cinco leguas, con ^ 
rumbo al oeste quarta al noroeste. 

Dia 13. Salimos de la Raneheria de San Diego a las nueve 
y quarto de la maiiana, y eomo a la una y media de la tarde 
paramos en un parage llamado Aritoac poco despues de haver 
vadeado el rio, haviendo eaminado unas quatro leguas con rumbo 4 
al oeste, quarta al sudoeste. 

Dia 14, Salimos del Aritoac a las nueve de la manana, y 
como a la una de la tarde llegamos al parage del Agua Caliente, 
haviendo eaminado quatro leguas con rumbo al oestsudoeste. 

Dia 15. Se determino detenernos oy para que descansara 
la cavallada, que venia fatal por falta de pastos. Se juntaron a 
vernos muchos Yndios Cocomaricopas, que son lo mismo que Opas, 
y el S'" Comandante en nombre del Rey nuestro Sefior dio el titulo 
y vara de Governador de toda la nacion a un Yndio que eilos 
mismos eligieron, y le pusimos por nombre Carlos, y a otro 
elegido por ellos, que llamamos Francisco, la vara de Alcalde, a 
los quales los demas Yndios concurrentes saludaron por su turno 
dandoles la mano, luego que fueron confirmados en sus empleos : 
y despues se repartio a todos tabaco y abalorio, y se intitulo este 
parage y su governacion San Bernardino del Agua Caliente. Ob- 
serve la altura de este parage (aunque el dia estaba bastante 
nebuloso) y lo halle en 33? 2: I/2. Y assi digo: En el Agua Cali- 
ente, dia 15. de Noviembre de 1775 : Altura meridiana del bordo 
inferior del Sol: 38? 4: Los indios que aqui se juntaron y vi, 
regule que serian como doscientas almas. 

Dia 16. Salimos del Agua caliente a las nueve y media de la 
manana, y a las quatro y media de la tarde paramos Cerca del 



[26] 



32 



Diary of Pedro Font. 27 

November 10. — "We remained here today as this morning a 1775 
woman and a soldier were found to be very sick. ^r^^ 

November 11. — We set out from the town of Uparsoitac at 
ten o'clock in the morning, and, about midday, arrived at some 
Opa villages situated on the banks of the river, having travelled 
some two short leagues to the west. 

November 12. — We set out from the Opa villages at half-past 
nine in the morning, and, at two in the afternoon, halted on the 
banks of the river at some ranches which, because it was St. 
James's day, we called the Rancheria de San Diego, having 
travelled fiv^ leagues, west by north. 

November 13. — We set out from the Rancheria de San Diego 
at a quarter past nine in the morning, and, about half-past one 
in the afternoon, halted, shortly after fording the river, at a place 
called Aritoac, having travelled some four leagues, west by south. 

November 14. — We set out from Aritoac at nine in the morn- 
ing, and, about one in the afternoon, arrived at Agua Caliente, 
having travelled four leagues to the west-southwest. 

November 15. — It was decided to remain here today in order 
to rest the horses, as they had suffered greatly from lack of pas- 
ture. Many Cocomaricopa Indians gathered to see us; they are 
the same as the Opas. The commander, in the name of the king, 
our master, conferred the title and baton of governor of the 
whole nation upon an Indian whom they themselves chose, and 
named him Carlos; to another one chosen by them, whom we 
called Francisco, he gave the baton of alcalde. "When these were 
confirmed in their appointments, the other Indians present saluted 
them in turn, giving them their hands. Afterwards, tobacco and 
beads were distributed among all, and this place with its jurisdic- 
tion was entitled San Bernardino del Agua Caliente. I observed 
the latitude of this place (although the day was very cloudy) and 
found it to be 33° 2I/2'; so I say: At Agua Caliente, November 
15, 1775, meridian altitude of the lower limb of the sun, 38° 4'. 
The Indians that gathered here, and that I saw, I estimated 
might be about two hundred souls. 

November 16. — We set out from Agua Caliente at half -past 
nine in the morning, and, at half-past four in the afternoon, 



[27] 



28 Academy of Pacific Coast History. 



Jomadas 



rio, haviendo caminado unas nueve leguas, con rumbo al oestsud- ^^eguas 
oeste. 9 

33 Dia 17. Salimos de Cerca del rio, como a las diez de la 
manana, y a medio dia paramos en la Orilla del rio, haviendo 
caminado unas dos leguas con rumbo al oestsudoeste. 2 

34 Dia 18. Salimos de la Orilla del rio a las diez de la manana, 
y como a las dos de la tarde paramos cerca del rio al pie del 
Cerro de S'^ Pasqual, haviendo caminado unas quatro leguas con 4 
rumbo al sudoeste. A mitad del camino vadeamos segunda vez 

el rio. 

Dia 19. Esta noche passada pario una muger, por lo qual 
nos detuvimos oy. Observe este parage y lo halle en altura de 32? 
48: Y assi digo : En el Cerro de San Pasqual, dia 19. de Noviem- 
bre de 1775 : Altura meridiana del bordo inferior del Sol : 
37? 20: 

Dia 20. Nos detuvimos, por no poder caminar la muger 
recien parida. 

Dia 21. No caminamos oy porque la muger que pario, aun no 
se podia poner en camino. Bolvi a observar este parage, y lo halle 
en la misma altura que el dia 19. 

35 Dia 22. Amanecio la parida aliviada, y se determine seguir 
el viage. Salimos del cerro de San Pasqual a las onze y media, 
de la manana y a las quatro y media de la tarde paramos a orillas 
del rio al pie de un cerrito que los Yndios llaman del metate y 
nosotros llamamos Cerro de Santa Cecilia, haviendo caminado 
unas seys leguas largas, con rumbo al sudoeste. 6 

Dia 23. Haviendo salido las requas se mando que bolviessen, 
porque eran mas de las onze y aun no se havia podido juntar la 
eavallada que se havia desparramado por falta de zacate, por lo 
qual nos detuvimos oy. 

Dia 24. Amanecio mala una muger preiiada, por lo qual 
nos quedamos aqui este dia. Observe la altura de este parage y 
lo halle en 32? 39: Y assi digo : En el Cerro de Santa Cecilia del 
Metate, dia 24. de Noviembre de 1775. Altura meridiana del 
bordo inferior del sol : 36? 24: 



[28] 



Diary op Pedro Font, 29 

halted near the river, having travelled some nine leagues to 1775 
the west-southwest. ' — • — ' 

November 17. — We set out from the vicinity of the river about 
ten o'clock in the morning, and, at midday, halted beside the 
river, having travelled some two leagues to the west-southwest. 

November 18. — We set out from the bank of the river at ten 
o'clock in the morning, and, about two in the afternoon, halted 
near the river at the foot of the Cerro de San Pascual; having 
travelled some four leagues to the southwest. Midway of the 
road we forded the river a second time. 

November 19. — Last night a woman Avas delivered, and for 
this reason we remained here today. I observed the latitude of 
this place, and found it to be 32° 48'; so I say: At the Cerro 
de San Pascual, November 19, 1775, meridian altitude of the 
lower limb of the sun, 37° 20'. 

November 20. — "We remained, because the woman just de- 
livered was unable to travel. 

November 21. — We did not go forward today, because the 
woman who was delivered could not as yet take the road. I 
observed the latitude of this place again, and found it the same 
as on the 19th. 

November 22. — This morning the mother was better, and it 
was decided to continue the journey. We set out from the Cerro 
de San Pascual at half-past eleven in the morning, and, at half- 
past four in the afternoon, halted on the banks of the river at 
the foot of a hill that the Indians call El ]\Ietate, and we call 
Cerro de Santa Cecilia, having travelled some six long leagues 
to the southwest. 

November 23. — After the pack-animals had set out, the order 
was given for them to return, because it was after eleven o'clock 
and the horses had not been collected — they had scattered because 
of the scarcity of pasture. We therefore remained here today. 

November 24. — This morning a pregnant woman was ill, and 
for this reason we stayed here today. I observed the latitude of 
this place and found it to be 32° 39' ; so I say : At the Cerro de 
Santa Cecilia del ]\Ietate, November 24, 1775, meridian altitude 
of the lower limb of the sun, 36° 24'. 



[29] 



37 



30 Academy op Pacific Coast History. 

jornadas Dia 25. Salimos del Cerro de Santa Cecilia del metate a las Leguas 
^^ nueve y tres quartos de la manana, y como a las dos de la tarde 
paramos en la orilla de una Laguna salobre distante del rio como 
una legua, haviendo caminado unas cinco leguas con rumbo al 5 
oeste quarta al noroeste. Salio al camino a encontrarnos un 
Yndio Yuma a cavallo, embiado del Capitan Palma para decirnos 
como nos esperaba de paz con toda su gente Yuma, y los Jalclie- 
dunes, que baxaron a la junta de los rios a vernos en virtud de 
un recado que se les embio desde el agua caliente. 

Dia 26. Salimos de la Laguna salobre a las diez y quarto de 
la mailana, y a las dos de la tarde paramos a la orilla del rio, 
haviendo caminado unas quatro leguas con rumbo al noroeste. 4 

Dia 27, Salimos de la orilla del rio a las nueve y media de 
^^ la manana, y cerca las doze paramos en un Puerto por donde passa 
el rio Gila recogido, haviendo caminado unas dos leguas, con 2 
rumbo al oestnoroeste. En el camino salio a recibirnos un pa- 
riente del Capitan Palma, y luego que paramos vino a vernos el 
mismo Capitan Salvador Palma, y otro capitan que le pusimos 
por nombre Pablo acompanados de varios Yndios Yumas, y nos 
saludaron con muchas demonstraciones de contento. 

Dia 28, Salimos del Puerto y orillas del Gila, a las nueve y 
quarto de la maiiana, y a las dos de la tarde paramos en la Playa 
del rio Colorado despues de vadear tercera vez el rio Gila, ha- 
viendo caminado unas cinco leguas con rumbo al oeste quarta al 5 
sudoeste. Nos hospedaron los Yumas, en una ramada que aqui 
havia mandado hacer el capitan Palma luego que supo nuestra 
venida, y acudieron muchos yndios de ambos sexos a visitarnos 
muy festivos y alegres. Como una legua mas aba jo de este parage 
se junta el rio Gila con el rio Colorado. 

Dia 29. Se busco vado al rio Colorado, y haviendose hallado 
y se abrio camino en el bosque y alameda de sus vegas, para 
vadearlo el dia siguiente. 
40 Dia 30. Despues de missa se fue para su tierra el Gover- 
nador de los Cocomaricopas Carlos, que vino con nosotros a con- 
firmar las paces con los Yumas y se volvio muy contento. Salimos 



[30] 



39 



Diary of Pedro Font. 31 

November 25. — We set out from the Cerro de Santa Cecilia 1775 
del ]\Ietate at a quarter to ten in the morning, and, at about two ^j 
in the afternoon, halted beside a brackish pond about a league 
from the river, having travelled some five leagues, west by north. 
A Yuma Indian on horseback came to meet us on the road; he 
was sent by the chief Palma to tell us that he was waiting for 
us in peace, with all his Yumas and the Jalchedunes, who had 
come down to the junction of the rivers to see us in consequence 
of a message sent to them from Agua Caliente. 

November 26. — We set out from the brackish pond at a quar- 
ter past ten in the morning, and, at two in the afternoon, halted 
beside the river, having travelled some four leagues to the north- 
west. 

November 27. — We set out from the bank of the river at half- 
past nine in the morning, and, about twelve, halted at a pass 
through which the Rio Gila runs narrowed, having travelled 
some two leagues to the west-northwest. A relative of the chief 
Palma came out to meet us on the road, and, as soon as we halted, 
the chief, Salvador Palma himself, came to see us, and another 
chief, to whom we gave the name of Pablo, accompanied by sev- 
eral young Indians; they greeted us with many demonstrations 
of pleasure. 

November 28. — We set out from the pass and the banlcs of 
the Gila at a quarter past nine in the morning, and, at two in 
the afternoon, halted on the shore of the Rio Colorado after 
fording the Rio Gila for the third time, having travelled some 
five leagues, west by south. The Yumas lodged us in a shelter 
of boughs that the chief Palma had ordered to be made here as 
soon as he knew of our coming. Many Indians of both sexes 
came to visit us, very festive and elated. About a league down 
stream from this place, the Rio Gila joins the Rio Colorado. 

November 29. — Search was made for a ford in the Rio Colo- 
rado, and when it was found a road was cut through the under- 
brush and trees along the banks, with the object of crossing on 
the following day. 

November 30. — After mass, Carlos, the governor of the Coco- 
maricopas, who had come with us to ratify peace with the Yumas, 
returned very contented to his home. We set out from the shore 

[31] 



32 Academy of Pacific Coast History. 

jomadas de la Playa del rio Colorado a las nueve de la mafiana, y a la una Leguas 
de la tarde, acabo de vadear el rio toda la expedicion gente y 
requas sin especial desgracia, y lo vadeamos dividido en tres 
brazos, y un desecho pequeiio, y nos quedamos en la Orilla del rio 
Colorado, haviendo caminado como una legua corta al norte. Lo i 
ancho de este rio en donde lo vadeamos regule que sera de unas 
300. a 400 varas y esto es en este tiempo que es quando esta mas 
baxo, que en creciendo es de leguas su extension y anchor. 

Dia 1. de Deciembre. Nos detuvimos con el motivo de fa- 
bricar un jacal en la rancheria del Capitan Palma, para habitacion 
de los dos PP. Garces, y Eixarch, que se havian de quedar en este 
rio. Se vistio el Capitan Palma con el vestido que se le entrego 
de parte del Ex™° S"" Virrey. 

Dia 2. Se prosiguio en la obra del jacal, por lo qual nos 
detuvimos. 

41 Dia 3. Salimos de la Orilla del rio Colorado, a las diez y 
media de la maiiana, y a medio dia llegamos a la Rancheria del 
Capitan Palma, haviendo caminado cosa de una legua con rumbo i 
al oeste quarta al sudoeste. Se empleo lo restante del dia en 
acabar el jacal. 

42 Dia 4. Nos despedimos de los Padres Fr. Francisco Garces 
y Fr. Thomas Eixarch, y salimos de la Rancheria del Capitan 
Palma a las nueve y media de la manana, y a las dos y media de 
la tarde paramos cerca una laguna de las rancherias del Capitan 
Pablo, una legua despues de haver passado el cerro de San Pablo, 
haviendo caminado unas cinco leguas con rumbo al oeste quarta 
al sudoeste. 

43 Dia 5. Salimos de las Rancherias del Capitan Pablo a las 
diez de la manana, y como a las dos de la tarde paramos cerca 
una laguna de las Rancherias del Cojat, haviendo caminado unas 
quatro leguas, con el rumbo al sudoeste y con muchas culebreadas. 4 
El rio desde el cerro de San Pablo da una guinada quasi al sur, 

y desde alii ya no se ve mas porque va muy apartado del camino 
que sigue por sus vegas. 

44 Dia 6. Salimos de las Rancherias del Cojat a las diez de la 
manana, y a las dos de la tarde paramos en la Laguna de Santa 
Olalla, haviendo caminado unas cinco leguas, con rumbo al sud- 5 
oeste, pero culebreando quasi de sur a oeste. <Estando ya 

[32] 



Diary of Pedro Font. 33 

of the Rio Colorado at nine in the morning, and, at one in the 1775 
afternoon, the entire expedition, people and pack-animals, had y^^ 
completed the fording of the river without any particular acci- 
dent. We crossed it where it was divided into three branches 
and a small backwater, and remained beside the Colorado, having 
travelled about one short league to the north. I estimated the 
width of the river, where we forded it, at some three or four 
hundred yards, and this at a time when the water is at its lowest, 
for when the river rises it is leagues wide. 

December 1. — We remained here for the purpose of erecting Dec. 
a hut at the village of the chief Palma for the habitation of 
Fathers Francisco Garces and Tomas Eixarch, who were to stay 
at this river. The chief Palma dressed himself in the suit that 
was given to him in the name of His Excellency the Viceroy. 

December 2. — The work of erecting the hut was continued, 
and for this reason we remained. 

December 3. — We set out from the bank of the Rio Colorado 
at half -past ten in the morning, and, at midday, arrived at the 
village of the chief Palma, having travelled about one league, 
west by south. The rest of the day was occupied in finishing 
the hut. 

December 4. — We took leave of Fathers Francisco Garces and 
Toraas Eixarch, and set out from the village of the chief Palma 
at half-past ten in the morning. At half-past two in the after- 
noon we halted near a pond belonging to the villages of the 
chief Pablo, a league beyond the Cerro de San Pablo, having 
travelled some five leagues, west by south. 

December 5. — We set out from the villages of the chief Pablo 
at ten o'clock in the morning, and, about two in the afternoon, 
halted near a pond of the Cojat villages, having travelled some 
four leagues to the southwest with many windings. From the 
Cerro de San Pablo the river makes a turn almost due south and 
is thence seen no more, as it is widely separated from the road, 
which leads along the valley. 

December 6. — We set out from the Cojat villages at ten in 
the morning, and, at two in the afternoon, halted at the Laguna 
de Santa Olalla, having travelled some five leagues to the south- 
west, although winding almost from south to west. We had just 

[33] 



34 Academy op Pacific Coast History. 

jornadas parados llogo el P. Fr. Francisco Garces, el qual vino para Leguas 
seguir su camino rio aba jo liasta el desemboque y visitar las 
naciones que havian en sus vegas.> 

Dia 7. Para que la cavallada y mulada, que venia muy mala, 
se reforzara con el buen zacate de esta Laguna se determino 
detenernos en ella. Acudieron muchos Yndios de la nacion 
Cajuenclie, que vive de aqui para abajo del rio, muy alegres, y 
traxeron al real muchissimas sandias, calabazas, y bastimento 
que cambalacharon con abalorio. Estos Cajuenches no se dis- 
tinguen en sus costumbres de los Yumas, y en el idioma son quasi 
lo mismo, como tambien los Jalchedunes de rio arriba. Observe 
la altura de este parage, y lo halle en 32? 33: Y assi digo : En la 
Laguna de Santa Olalla, dia 7. de Deciembre de 1775 : Altura 
meridiana del bordo inferior del sol : 34? 28: 

Dia 8. Se dispuso dividir la gente y requas de la expedicion 
en tres trozos para passar las jornadas malas y largas que se 
seguian, el primer trozo en que yo fui, governado por el S'" Co- 
mandante; el segundo por el Sargento, y el tercero por el The- 
niente, los que havian de salir del parage un dia despues unos de 
otros. Acudio al real mucha Yndiada con sus sandias &c, y 
aunque no se pudo ver el golpe de gente junta, regule por la que 
vi, que los Yumas seran como 3000. almas, y los Cajuenches algo 
mas. 

Dia 9. Salimos de la Laguna de Santa Olalla a las nueve y 
*5 media de la maiiana, y a las tres y media de la tarde llegamos al 
pozo Salobre del Carrizal, haviendo caminado unas siete leguas 7 
con el rumbo al oestnoroeste. Es parage fatal, sin pasto y de 
malissima agua. El P. Fr. Francisco Garces se fue por otro 
camino rio abajo con animo de llegar hasta su desemboque. 
.Q Dia 10. Salimos del pozo salobre del Carrizal a las onze y 
media de la maiiana, y a las cinco y media de la tarde paramos 
en una barranca seca, sin pasto ni agua, haviendo caminado unas 
siete leguas con rumbo al oestnoroeste. 7 

47 Dia 11. Salimos de la Barranca seca a las siete de la manana, 

y a las seys de la tarde llegamos a los Pozos de Santa Rosa, ha- 



[34] 



Diary of Pedro Font. 35 

halted when Father Francisco Garces arrived ; he was on his way 1775 
down the river to its mouth to visit the nations that inhabit the ^^^ 
surrounding country. 

December 7. — In order that the horses and mules, which were 
in bad condition, might be refreshed with the good grass around 
this pond, it was determined that we should remain here. Many 
Indians of the Cajuenche nation, who live from here on farther 
down the river, came joyfully, and brought to the camp a great 
many watermelons, pumpkins, and other provisions, which they 
traded for beads. These Cajuenches do not differ from the Yumas 
in their customs, and their language is nearly the same, as is 
also that of the Jalchedunes up the river. I observed the latitude 
of this place and found it to be 32° 33' ; so I say : At the Laguna 
de Santa Olalla, December 7, 1775, meridian altitude of the lower 
limb of the sun, 34° 28'. 

December 8. — It was decided to divide the people and pack- 
animals of the expedition into three parties, in order to make 
the long and difficult marches which were to follow; the first 
party, in which I went, was led by the commander; the second, 
by the sergeant; and the third, by the lieutenant. These were 
to set out from the stopping-place on succeeding days. A great 
many Indians came to the camp with their watermelons, etc., 
and, although all the crowd could not be seen at one time, I 
estimated from what I saw that the Yumas must have numbered 
about three thousand souls, and the Cajuenches somewhat more. 

December 9. — We set out from the Laguna de Santa Olalla 
at half-past nine in the morning, and, at half-past three in the 
afternoon, arrived at the Pozo Salobre del Carrizal, having trav- 
elled some seven leagues to the west-northwest. It is a miserable 
place, without pasture and with very bad water. Father Fran- 
cisco Garces took another road, do\VTi stream, with the intention 
of going as far as the mouth of the river. 

December 10. — We set out from the Pozo Salobre del Carrizal 
at half-past eleven in the morning, and, at half-past five in the 
afternoon, halted in a dry gulch, without either pasture or water, 
having travelled some seven leagues to the west-northwest. 

December 11. — We set out from the dry gulch at seven o'clock 
in the morning, and, at six in the afternoon, arrived at the 

[35] 



36 Academy op Pacific Coast History. 

jornadas viendo caminado unas catorze leguas, con el rumbo como diez al Leguas 
oestnoroeste diez j lo restante un poco al oeste y lo mas al oest- 14 
sudoeste. Son pozos de buena agua pero escassos, y se trabajo en 
ellos para dar agua desde que Ilegamos hasta el dia siguiente a 
medio dia. 
43 Dia 12. Salimos de los Pozos de Santa Rosa a la una y tres 

quartos de la tarde, y a las quatro y tres quartos paramos en un 
Arroyo seeo, haviendo caminado tres leguas rumbo al norte. 3 

.„ Dia 13. Salimos del Arroyo seco, a las nueve de la manana, y 

a las tres y media de la tarde Ilegamos al parage de San Sebas- 
tian, que es rancheria pequeiia de Cajuenches serranos, haviendo 
caminado unas siete leguas largas con rumbo al nornoroeste, y 7 
con alguna inclinacion al norte. 

Dia 14. Amanecio el dia muy frio y a media manana nevo 
y estando nevando llego el ganado. Se determino detenernos 
aqui hasta que se juntasse toda la gente de la Expedicion que 
quedo atras dividida en dos trozos. 

Dia 15. A medio dia llego el Sargento con el segundo trozo 
de la gente de la expedicion. 

Dia 16. Esperavamos que oy llegasse el tercer trozo pero no 
vino, porque con la nevada se atrasso. 

Dia 17. A la tarde llego el Theniente, con el tercer trozo de 
la gente de la expedicion, quien tuvo en el camino algunos 
atrassos. Observe la altura de este parage, y lo halle en 33? 8: 
Y assi digo : En la Rancheria de San Sebastian, dia 17. de De- 
ciembre de 1775 : Altura meridiana del bordo inferior del sol : 
33? 10: 

Dia 18. Salimos de San Sebastian a la una de la tarde, y a 
las quatro y media paramos en un Baxio de algun zacate y sin 
agua, haviendo caminado unas quatro leguas, con rumbo al oeste, 4 
quarta al noroeste. 

51 Dia 19. Salimos del Baxio a las nueve de la manana, y a la 
una y media de la tarde Ilegamos al pozo de San Gregorio, parage 
de poco zacate y menos agua, haviendo caminado unas cinco 5 
leguas con rumbo al oeste quarta al noroeste. 

52 Dia 20. Salimos del pozo de San Gregorio a las nueve de la 
manana, y a la una y media de la tarde paramos en la orilla del 



[36] 



Diary of Pedro Font. 37 

Pozos de Santa Rosa, having travelled some fourteen leagues: 
about ten to the west-northwest; and the remainder, a little to 
the west and the greater part to the west-southwest. The water 
of these wells is good but scanty; and in order to get water it 
was necessary to work from the time of our arrival until noon 
the next day. 

December 12. — We set out from the Pozos de Santa Rosa at 
a quarter to two in the afternoon, and, at a quarter to five, halted 
in a dry gully, having travelled three leagues to the north. 

December 13. — We set out from the dry gully at nine in 
the morning, and, at half-past three in the afternoon, arrived at 
San Sebastian, which is a small village of the mountain Caju- 
enches, having travelled some seven long leagues to the north- 
northwest, with a slight inclination to the north. 

December 14. — The day broke very cold, and, in the middle 
of the forenoon it snowed, and while it was snowing the cattle 
arrived. It was decided to remain here until all the people of 
the other two parties of the expedition which were behind could 
gather. 

December 15. — At noon the sergeant arrived with the second 
party of the people of the expedition. 

December 16. — We expected the third party today, but it 
did not arrive, as it was delayed by the snow. 

December 17. — The lieutenant arrived in the afternoon with 
the third party, which had met with some delays on the road. 
I observed the latitude of this place, and found it to be 33° 8' ; 
so I say : At the Rancheria de San Sebastian, December 17, 1775, 
meridian altitude of the lower limb of the sun, 33° 10'. 

December 18. — We set out from San Sebastian at one in the 
afternoon, and, at half-past four, halted in a bottom with some 
grass and without water, having travelled some four leagues, west 
by north. 

December 19. — We set out from the bottom at nine in the 
morning, and, at half-past one in the afternoon, arrived at the 
Pozo de San Gregorio, a place with little grass and less water, 
having travelled some five leagues, west by north. 

December 20. — We set out from the Pozo de San Gregorio 
at nine in the morning, and, at half-past one in the afternoon, 

[37] 



38 Academy of Pacific Coast History. 

jornadas Arrovo de Santa Catharina, en donde se pierde y acaba, haviendo Leguas 
caminado muy despacio unas quatro leguas, con rumbo al noroeste 4 
quarta al oeste. La noche passada el ganado pego estampida por 
falta de agua, y se rebolvio para San Sebastian. 

Dia 21. Nos detuvimos por no haver venido los que se queda- 
ron atras recogiendo el ganado, y se enviaron dos soldados con 
algunas bestias a encontrarlos. 

Dia 22. Poco antes de anochecer vino el Sargento con los que 
se quedaron recogiendo el ganado, del qual se perdio alguno. 

53 Dia 23. Salimos del Arroyo de S*^ Catharina, a la una de la 
tarde, y poco antes de las tres paramos al Pie del Sauce, cerca el 
nacimiento de dicho arroyo, haviendo caminado una legua larga, 1 
con rumbo al noroeste quarta al oeste. Este parage esta en una 
Canada que sigue para arriba, por la qual va el camiuo atraves- 
sando la sierra madre de California. 

54 Dia 24. Salimos del Pie del Sauce a las nueve y media de la 
manana, y como a las dos de la tarde paramos en la misma Canada 
en un Arroyo seco, no muy lexos de un ojito de agua, haviendo 
caminado unas quatro leguas cortas, con rumbo al oestnoroeste. 4 

Dia 25. Con el motivo de que en esta santa noche de Navidad, 
poco antes de media noche pario una muger de un soldado feliz- 
mente un nino, y por estar el dia muy crudo y neblinoso se deter- 
mino detenernos oy. 

55 Dia 26. Salimos del Arroyo seco a las nueve y quarto de la 
maiiana, y como a las dos de la tarde paramos en un baxio ime- 
diato a los peilascos que forman el puerto de la sierra madre de 
California llamado El Puerto de San Carlos, haviendo caminado 
unas tres leguas largas, con el rumbo al nornoroeste, y cule- 3 
breando en la cuesta hasta encumbrar la sierra, cuyo trecho sera 
como una legua. Serian las cinco de la tarde quando sentimos un 
temblor con apariencias de terremoto que duro muy poco, acom- 
panado de un estruendo instantaneo y recio. 

Dia 27. Salimos del baxio y Puerto de San Carlos, a las 
nueve y tres quartos de la maiiana, y a las dos y media de la 
tarde paramos en el principio de la caiiada de San Patricio, cerca 
el nacimiento de su arroyo, haviendo caminado unas seys leguas 6 



[38] 



Diary of Pedro Font. 39 

halted beside the Arroyo de Santa Catharina where the stream 1775 
loses itself and disappears, having travelled very slowly some ^^^ 
four leagues, west by north. Last night the cattle stampeded 
from lack of water, and made for San Sebastian. 

December 21. — "We remained here, as those who were behind 
collecting the cattle had not arrived, and two soldiers with some 
animals were sent to meet them. 

December 22. — A little before nightfall, the sergeant arrived 
with those who had been gathering the cattle, of which some 
were lost. 

December 23. — We set out from the Arroyo de Santa Cath- 
arina at one in the afternoon, and, a little before three, halted 
at the Pie del Sauce, near the source of the stream, having trav- 
elled a long league, northwest by west. This place is in a canyon 
that runs on up, and through it passes the road that crosses the 
Sierra Madre de California. 

December 24. — We set out from the Pie del Sauce at half- 
past nine in the morning, and, about two in the afternoon, halted 
in the same canyon in a dry gully not very far from a small 
spring, having travelled some four short leagues to the north- 
northwest. 

December 25. — For the reason that on this holy night of the 
Nativity, a little before midnight, the wife of a soldier happily 
gave birth to a son, and because the day was very raw and foggy, 
it was decided to remain today. 

December 26. — We set out from the dry gully at a quarter 
past nine in the morning, and, about two in the afternoon, halted 
in a bottom near the rocks that form the pass of the Sierra Madre 
de California, called the Puerto de San Carlos, having travelled 
some three long leagues to the north-northwest, and climbed the 
slope as far as the summit, a distance that must be about one 
league. At about five in the afternoon we felt a shake, with 
phenomena of earthquake, which lasted but a very short time and 
was accompanied by an instantaneous and loud noise. 

December 27. — We set out from the bottom and the Puerto de 
San Carlos at a quarter to ten in the morning, and, at half-past 
two in the afternoon, halted in the beginning of the Canada de 
San Patricio, near the source of its stream, having travelled some 

[39] 



40 Academy op Pacific Coast History. 

jornadas COD el rumbo como tres al noroeste y lo restante al oestnoroeste. Leguas 
Aqui el terreno es major que el passado y muda totalmente de 
aspeeto este pais desde que se passa el puerto de San Carlos, 
respecto a lo que queda atras del otro lado. 

Dia 28. Amanecio algo mala la recien parida por lo qual nos 
detuvimos oy. Traxo un soldado unas piedras que parecieron de 
mineral, y algunos se inclinaron a deeir que en estas sierras y mas 
abajo havia minas, pues el panino lo indicaba. Observe la altura 
de este parage y lo halle en 33? 37: Y assi digo : En la Caiiada 
de San Patricio, y naeimiento de su arroyo, dia 28. de Deciembre 
de 1775: Altura meridiana del bordo inferior del sol: 32? 48: 

57 Dia 29. Salimos de la canada de San Patricio, a las nueve y 
media de la manana, y a las quatro y media de la tarde paramos 
en la orilla del arroyo de San Joseph, en donde se acaba la canada 
que seguimos haviendo caminado siete leguas largas con el rumbo y 
al noroeste quarta al oeste, y con alguna guiiiada al norte cule- 
breando. 

5g Dia 30. Salimos del Arroyo de San Joseph a las nueve y 

quarto de la manana, y a las dos y quarto de la tarde paramos en 
el valle de San Joseph al pie de una loma, haviendo caminado 5 
cinco leguas, con el rumbo al oestnoroeste. 

59 Dia 31. Salimos del Pie de la Loma, a las nueve y quarto de 

la manana, y a las quatro y tres quartos de la tarde llegamos a 

la Orilla del Rio de Santa Ana, haviendo caminado unas ocho 

• _ 8 

leguas, con rumbo al oestnoroeste, y con alguna guinada corta a 

ratos al oeste. 

Dia 1. de Enero de 1776. Por haver sido larga la Jornada de 
ayer, y haver llegado tarde el ganado, se determino oy no hacer 
mas que vadear el rio, que aunque estrecho es de bastante agua, 
muy rapido, y de caxon muy profundo. A las dos de la tarde se 
empezo a vadear el rio, y en una hora se vadeo con felicidad; y 
nos paramos del otro lado cerca de sus margenes. 

Dia 2. Salimos del Rio de Santa Ana a las ocho y quarto de 
la manana, y a las dos y quarto de la tarde paramos en el Arroyo 



60 



[40] 



Diary of Pedro Font. 41 

six leagues: about three to the northwest and the remainder to 1775 
the west-northwest. Here the land is better than that just ^ 
traversed, and the aspect of the country — in contrast with that 
which lies on the other side — changes entirely after leaving the 
Puerto de San Carlos. 

December 28. — This morning the woman recently delivered 
was found to be ill, and for this reason we remained here today. 
A soldier brought some stones which looked like mineral, and 
some were inclined to say that in these mountains, and lower 
down, there were mines, as the kind of rock so indicated. I ob- 
served the latitude of this place and found it to be 33° 37' ; so 
I say: In the Caiiada de San Patricio, [at the] source of its 
stream, December 28, 1775, meridian altitude of the lower limb 
of the sun, 32° 48'. 

December 29. — We set out from the Canada de San Patricio 
at half-past nine in the morning, and, at half-past four in the 
afternoon, halted beside the Arroyo de San Joseph where the 
canyon that we were following terminates, having travelled seven 
long leagues, northwest by west, winding, with some deviation, 
to the north. 

December 30. — We set out from the Arroyo de San Joseph 
at a quarter past nine in the morning, and, at a quarter past 
two in the afternoon, halted in the Valle de San Joseph, at the 
foot of a hill, having travelled five leagues to the west-northwest. 

December 31. — We set out from the foot of the hill at a quar- 
ter past nine in the morning, and, at a quarter to five in the 
afternoon, arrived at the bank of the Rio de Santa Ana, having 
travelled some eight leagues to the west-northwest, with some 
short turns, now and then, to the west. 

Januarj' 1, 1776. — As the journey yesterday was long and 

the cattle arrived late, it was decided that today we should only v_^-^ 
ford the river, which, although narrow, carries a large volume of '^««- 
water, is very rapid, and has a very deep bed. At two in the 
afternoon we started to ford the river, and in an hour the cross- 
ing was successfully accomplished. We halted on the other side, 
close to its banks. 

January 2. — We set out from the Rio de Santa Ana at a 
quarter past eight in the morning, and, at a quarter past two 

[41] 



42 Academy of Pacific Coast History. 

jornadas de los Alisos, haviendo eaminado seys leguas eon rumbo al oest- Leguas 
noroeste. 6 

61 Dia 3. Salimos del Arroyo de los Alisos a las nueve y quarto 
de la manana, y a las tres de la tarde paramos a orillas del Arroyo 
que eon otros se junta y forma el rio de San Gabriel, haviendo 
eaminado unas seys leguas, con rumbo al oestnoroeste. ^ 

62 Dia 4. Salimos del Arroyo de San Gabriel a las nueve de la 
manana, y a las onze llegamos a la Mission de San Gabriel, 
senalada en el mapa con la letra B. haviendo eaminado unas dos 

•^ leguas, eon rumbo al oestsudoeste, algo inclinado al oeste. La 
mission de San Gabriel esta situada eomo a ocho leguas distante 
del mar, en un parage de bellissimas proporciones con bastante 
agua y muy buenas tierras. El sitio es llano y despejado, y eomo 
a dos leguas de la sierra nevada, que le eae al norte, la qual desde 
el puerto de San Carlos venimos dexando a la derecha, y parece 
que por aqui remata. En esta Mission hallamos al S"^ Capitan 
Comandante de Monterey D*^ Fernando de Ribera y Moncada, que 
con el motivo de la sublevacion de los Yndios de la mission de 
S"^ Diego que la destruyeron y mataron a su P. Ministro el P. Fr. 
Luis Jaume, havia venido para passar a aquel Presidio. 

Dia 5. Nos detuvimos a descansar, y los S*"^^ Comandantes 
platicaron sobre el negoeio de la rebelion de los Yndios de San 
Diego. 

Dia 6. Se canto la missa en aceion de graeias por nuestra 
llegada. El S^ Comandante Anza se ofrecio acompaiiar al S'" 
Comandante Ribera, y passar al Puerto y Presidio de San Diego 
con viente soldados de la expedieion para cooperar al castigo de 
los Yndios rebeldes, si f uesse necessario para pacificar la tierra ; y 
quedo determinado salir para San Diego el dia siguiente, a donde 
yo fui tambien, quedandose la gente y lo demas de la expedieion 
en San Gabriel hasta que bolviessemos. 

63 Dia 7. Salimos de la Mission de San Gabriel al medio dia, a 
la ligera, y poco despues de las siete de la noche paramos a la orilla 
del rio de Santa Ana, despues de vadearlo, haviendo eaminado 
unas diez leguas largas, eon rumbo einco al sudeste, tres al est- 
sudeste y las dos ultimas quasi al este y eon alguna guiiiada al 10 
nordeste. 



[42] 



Diary of Pedro Font. 43 

in the afternoon, we halted in the Arroyo de los Alisos, having 1775 
travelled six leagues to the west-northwest. ^ ' 

January 3. — We set out from the Arroyo de los Alisos at a 
quarter past nine in the morning, and, at three in the afternoon, 
halted on the banks of the stream which unites with others and 
forms the Rio de San Gabriel, having travelled some six leagues 
to the west-northw&st. 

January 4. — We set out from the Arroyo de San Gabriel 
at nine in the morning, and, at eleven, arrived at the mission 
of San Gabriel — marked on the map with the letter B — having 
travelled some two leagues to the west-southwest, inclining a 
little to the west. The mission of San Gabriel is situated about 
eight leagues from the sea, in a most beautiful and ample place, 
with plenty of water and very good soil. The site is level and 
open, and about two leagues from the Sierra Nevada, which lies 
to the north — we have had this range on our right since leaving 
the Puerto de San Carlos, and apparently it ends about this place. 
At this mission we found the commandant of Monterey, Captain 
Fernando de Rivera y jMoncada, who had come here on his way to 
the presidio of San Diego on account of the rising of the San 
Diego mission Indians, who had destroyed it, and killed its mini- 
ster. Father Luis Jaume. 

January 5. — We remained here to rest, and the commanders 
talked over the affair of the revolt of the San Diego Indians. 

January 6. — Mass was sung in thanksgiving for our arrival. 
Commander Anza offered to accompany Commander Rivera, and 
to go to the port and presidio of San Diego with twenty soldiers 
of the expedition to assist in punishing the rebel Indians, if that 
were necessary in order to pacify the country. It was decided 
to set out the next day for San Diego, (where I also went), the 
people and the rest of the expedition remaining at San Gabriel 
until we should return. 

January 7. — We set out, lightly equipped, from the mission 
of San Gabriel at noon, and, a little after seven at night, halted 
beside the Rio de Santa Ana, after fording it, having travelled 
some ten long leagues: five to the southeast, three to the east- 
southeast, and the last two almost due east, with some deviation 
to the northeast. 

[43] 



44 Academy of Pacific Coast History, 

jornadas Dia 8. Salimos del rio de Santa Ana a las siete de la manana Leguas 

64 y a las quatro y quarto de la tarde paramos en el arroyo de S** 
Maria Madalena, llamado por otro nombre la Quema haviendo 
caminado unas catorze leguas, con el rumbo, eomo cinco al 14 
estsudeste, y quatro al sudeste, culebreando todo este tramo hasta 

el Trabuco por causa de las lomas, y lo restante al sudeste, quarta 
al sur. 

65 Dia 9. Salimos del Arroyo de la Quema a las siete y media de 
la maiiana, y a las cinco de la tarde paramos en el rio de San Juan 
Capistrano, haviendo caminado unas catorze leguas, con rumbo u 
muy variado y de muchas bueltas por causa de las lomas que me 
parece reducirse como la mitad al estsudeste [y la otra] mitad al 
sudeste. 

66 Dia 10. Salimos del Rio de San Juan Capistrano a las siete y 
media de la manana, y a las tres y media de la tarde paramos en 

la Rancheria de la Soledad, haviendo caminado unas doze leguas, 12 
con rumbo vario, como tres leguas al sudeste, unas dos al sur- 
sudeste como quatro al sur no cabal hasta San Dieguillo, y lo 
restante al sursudeste y al ultimo quasi al sudeste. 

g„ Dia 11. Salimos de la rancheria de la Soledad a las siete y 

media de la manana y como a las diez y media llegamos al Presidio 
de San Diego, seiialado en el mapa eon la letra C. haviendo cami- 
nado quatro leguas largas con rumbo, las dos primeras quasi al ■* 
sursudeste y con declinacion al sur, y las dos restantes al sudeste, y 
sursudeste, siguiendo lo mas de estas la playa del puerto anegado. 

Q Esta el Presidio de San Diego situado, en un muy mal parage de 
una loma dominada de otras, pequena y desigual, al pie de la qual 
passa el rio que mucho tiempo del ano esta seco, el qual viene de 
la sierra madre de California que no esta lexos, como del nordeste, 
y bolteando la loma desagua en el Puerto que dista del Presidio 
unas dos leguas al sur. Aqui hallamos al P. Ministro de la mission 
destruida de San Diego, que estaba situada como una legua rio 
arriba, y los dos PP. Ministros de la mission de San Juan Capis- 
trano, que empezaban a fundar cerea el parage de la Quema, y la 



[44] 



Diary op Pedro Font. 45 

January 8.— We set out from the Rio de Santa Ana at seven 1776 
in the morning, and, at a quarter past four in the afternoon, '~J^ 
halted in the Arroyo de Santa Maria IVIagdalena, otherwise called 
Arroyo de la Quema, having travelled some fourteen leagues: 
about five to the east-southeast; four to the southeast — all this 
stretch, as far as El Trabuco, winding on account of the hills; 
and the remainder, southeast by south. 

January 9. — We set out from the Arroyo de la Quema at 
half -past seven in the morning, and, at five in the afternoon, 
halted at the Rio de San Juan Capistrano, having travelled some 
fourteen leagues with a very variable course, and with many 
turns on account of the hills — I suppose it might be set down 
as one half to the east-southeast, and the other half to the south- 
east. 

January 10. — We set out from the Rio de San Juan Capis- 
trano at half-past seven in the morning, and, at half-past three 
in the afternoon, halted in the village of La Soledad, having 
travelled some twelve leagues with a varied course : about three 
leagues to the southeast ; some two, to the south-southeast ; about 
four, not quite south, to San Dieguillo; the remainder, south- 
southeast ; and the last, almost southeast. 

January 11. — We set out from the village of La Soledad at 
half-past seven in the morning, and, about half-past ten, arrived 
at the presidio of San Diego — marked on the map with the let- 
ter C — having travelled four long leagues: the first two, almost 
south-southeast, inclining south ; and the remaining two, south- 
east and south-southeast, the greater part of these following the 
beach of the shallow port. The presidio of San Diego occupies a 
very bad site on a small and uneven hill, commanded by others. 
At the foot of the hill flows the river, which during the greater 
part of the year is dry ; it comes from the Sierra Madre de Cali- 
fornia, which is not far distant, about northeast ; after rounding 
the hill, it empties into the port, which is some two leagues south 
of the presidio. Here we met the minister of the ruined mission 
of San Diego, which was situated about one league up the river, 
and the two ministers of the mi.ssion of San Juan Capistrano, 
which they had begun to establish near La Quema and had left 



[45] 



46 Academy of Pacific Coast History. 

dexaron con el alzamiento de los Yndios, los quales, y todo el 
Presidio recibieron especial contento con nuestra venida. 

Dia 12. Estuvo el dia apacible, que ayer fue bien malo con el 
viento extraordinario que soplaba. Observe la altura de este Pre- 
sidio, y lo halle en 32? 44: % 

Dia 13. Se empezaron a hacer las averiguaciones sobre el 
alzamiento passado, destruccion de la mission, y muerte de su P. 
Ministro examinando a unos Yndios cabezillas que estaban presos 
en el Presidio. 

Dia 14. Se canto la missa al dulcissimo nombre de Jesus per 
la feliz pacificacion de los Yndios alzados. 

Dia 15. Se prosiguieron las averiguaciones sobre el assumpto 
del alzamiento. 

Dia 16. Esta noche passada despacho el S"" Comandante 
Ribera al Sargento del Presidio con quinze soldados, para que 
fuessen a la rancheria de San Luis a prender unos cabezillas 
alzados que por noticia que dio una Yndia vieja supo que alii 
estaban. 

Dia 17. Estuvo el dia bueno por la manana, pero por la tarde 
se cubrio el orizonte con una gran neblina que subio del mar, 

Dia 18. Prosiguio el dia muy humedo y funesto con la 
neblina. 

Dia 19. A la noche vino el Sargento y los soldados con quatro 
gentiles delinquentes presos, y con la noticia de que los Yndios 
alzados con sus cabezillas se havian remontado a la sierra. 

Dia 20. A la tarde vi una viva representacion del incendio 
de la Llission de San Diego con la casualidad de baverse pegado 
fuego a un mediano jacal de tule que servia de fragua, y no se 
pudo apagar por diligencias que se hicieron. 

Dia 21. Desde la noche empezo a Hover, y prosiguio assi 
todo este dia. 

Dia 22. Estuvo el dia muy humedo y cubierto aunque sin 
Hover. 

Dia 23. ] Prosiguio el dia frio y lloviendo lo mas de el. Se 

Dia 24. J trabajo estos dias en assegurar el Presidio : se 



[46] 



Jan. 



Diary of Pedro Font. 47 

on the rising of the Indians. The fathers, and the entire presidio, 1775 
felt particular pleasure at our coming. 

January 12. — This was a pleasant day, unlike yesterday, 
which was very disagreeable owing to the unusual wind that 
blew. I observed the latitude of this presidio and found it to 
be 32° 441/2'. 

January 13. — Investigations were begun in regard to the 
late uprising, destruction of the mission, and death of its minis- 
ter, with examination of some Indian leaders who were held 
in the presidio. 

January 14. — ]\Iass was sung to the Dulcisimo Nombre de 
Jesus for the happy pacification of the rebellious Indians. 

January 15. — The investigations in regard to the affair of 
the rebellion were continued. 

January 16. — Last night the commandant Rivera sent the 
sergeant of the presidio with fifteen soldiers to the village of 
San Luis to seize some rebel leaders who, from information given 
by an old Indian woman, were known to be there. 

January 17. — The day was fair in the morning, but in the 
afternoon the horizon was covered with a heavy fog rising from 
the sea. 

January 18. — Today it continued very damp and gloomy 
on account of the fog. 

January 19. — At night the sergeant and the soldiers came 
back wnth four of the offending natives whom they had taken, 
and with the news that the rebel Indians, with their leaders, 
had taken to the mountains. 

January 20. — In the afternoon I saw a vivid representation 
of the burning of the mission of San Diego, when, accidentally, 
a small-sized hut of tule, used as a forge, was set on fire, and 
could not be put out despite the efforts that were made. 

January 21. — Last night it began to rain, and it has con- 
tinued all day. 

January 22. — Today it was very damp and overcast, al- 
though it did not rain. 

January 23. — It continued cold, and rained during the 
greater part of the day. These days were occupied in making 
the presidio secure. 

[47] 



48 Academy of Pacific Coast History. 

proseguian en estos dias las averigua clones sobre el alzamiento, &c. 

Dia 25. Al anocheeer despacho el S"" Comandante Kibera al 
Sargento con quinze soldados, para que fuessen a la rancheria de 
S° Luis a prender unos delinquentes que alii estavan. 

Dia 26. Al anocheeer vino el Sargento y los soldados con 
nueve Yndios presos, de los quales dos eran cabezillas y con ellos 
traxo una media estola, un almaizal, y un pedazo de palio con su 
forro correspondiente arrancado : Por los presos supo el S^ 
Comandante que otro cabezilla principal se havia ido a la ran- 
cheria de la soledad, y en aquella misma hora bolvio a despachar 
al Sargento y soldados para que fuessen alia a prenderlo. 

Dia 27. A medio dia bolvio el Sargento y los soldados sin 
presa alguna por haverse liuido el Yndio que iban a buscar, la 
noche antecedente. 

Dia 28. No se ofrecio cosa particular. 

Dia 29. No huvo cosa especial. 

Dia 30. Siguio este dia sin novedad. 

Dia 31. Se passo sin novedad especial. 

Dia 1. de Febrero. A medio dia se despacho el correo con 
seys soldados, dirigido por la California a Mexico dando parte al 
S'^ Virrey de lo acaecido y del estado en que quedaba este Presidio. 

Dia 2. Bolvi a observar la altura de este presidio para ver si 
coneordaba con la antecedente que hize el dia 12. de Enero, y 
lo halle en la misma de 32? 44: 1/2 : Y assi digo En el Presidio del 
Puerto de San Diego dia 2. de Febrero de 1776: Altura meri- 
diana del bordo inferior del sol 40? 14: 

Dia 3. Se empezo a disponer nuestra marcha para Monterey. 

Dia 4. Se determino salir maiiana para Monterey. 

Dia 5. Amanecio Uoviendo, por lo que se suspendio la 
marcha. 

Dia 6. Nos detuvimos por estar el dia amenazando agua, y 
desde medio dia empezo a Hover. 

Dia 7. Fue impossible salir, porque toda la noche estuvo 
Uoviendo y siguio del mismo modo lo mas del dia. 



[48] 



Jan. 



Diary of Pedro Font. 49 

January 24. — The investigations into the revolt, etc., were 1775 
continued during these days. 

January 25. — At nightfall Commander Rivera sent the ser- 
geant with fifteen soldiers to the village of San Luis to seize some 
offenders who were there. 

January 26. — At nightfall the sergeant and the soldiers came 
back with nine captured Indians; of these, two were leaders, 
and with them was brought half a stole, a sash, and a piece of 
cloak with the corresponding lining torn from it. From the 
prisoners the commander learned that another principal leader 
had gone to the village of La Soledad, and on the instant he 
again sent the soldiers and sergeant there to seize him. 

January 27. — At midday the sergeant and the soldiers re- 
turned without any prisoner, as the Indian for whom they were 
looking had fled the night before. 

January 28. — Nothing particular happened. 

January 29. — There was nothing of importance. 

January 30. — The day passed without event. 

January 31. — Passed without special event. 

February 1. — At midday the mail was despatched with six Feb. 
soldiers, directed to i\Iexico by way of [Lower] California, in- 
forming the Viceroy of what had happened, and of the condition 
in which the presidio was left. 

February 2. — I again observed the latitude of this presidio, 
to see if it agreed with the previous observation I made on Jan- 
uary 12th, and found it to be the same — 32° 441/2' ; so I say : 
At the presidio of the port of San Diego, February 2, 1776, 
meridian altitude of the lower limb of the sun, 40° 14'. 

February 3. — Preparations were begun for our march to 
^Monterey. 

February 4. — It was decided to start tomorrow for Monterey. 

February 5. — This morning it was found to be raining, and 
for this reason the march was postponed. 

February 6. — "We remained as the day threatened to be wet, 
and at noon it began to rain. 

February 7. — It was impossible to set out because it rained 
all night, and so continued the greater part of the day. 



[49] 



50 Academy of Pacific Coast History. 

jornadas Dia 8. Amanecio el dia sin lluvia, pero se determino de- Leguas 
tenernos oy por no estar el tiempo assentado. 

68 Dia 9. Salimos del Presidio de San Diego el S"" Comandante 
Anza y los demas, (quedandose el S"^ Comandante Ribera, quien 
determino no moverse hasta aeabar de prender los delinquentes, 
y dexar assegurado el Presidio) a las ocho y tres quartos de la 
mafiana, y a las cinco y quarto de la tarde llegamos al parage 
llamado La agua hedionda, haviendo eaminado unas treze leguas 13 
por el misrao camino y rumbos correspondientes a los de la 
venida de los quales el principal es el Noroeste. 

69 Dia 10. Salimos de La Agua hedionda a las siete de la 
mafiana, y a las cinco y tres quartos de la tarde paramos en un 
Arroyo pequeno, una legua antes de llegar a la Quema, haviendo 
eaminado unas diez y seys leguas con el rumbo principal Nor- 16 
oeste, y con sus variaciones como a la ida. 

70 Dia 11. Salimos del Arroyo pequeiio a las siete de la 
mafiana, y a las quatro y media de la tarde paramos a la orilla 
del rio de Santa Ana despues de vadearlo, haviendo eaminado 
unas quinze leguas, con el rumbo variado como a la ida, y siguien- 15 
do el principal noroeste. 

71 Dia 12. Salimos del Rio de Santa Ana a las siete de la 
mafiana, y a las dos de la tarde llegamos a la Mission de San 
Gabriel, haviendo eaminado unas diez leguas, con la variacion de 10 
rumbos como a la ida, y siguiendo el principal rumbo Noroeste. 
En esta Mission nos hallamos con la novedad de que esta noche 
passada desertaron un soldado de Monterey y quatro mozos y 
arrieros de la Expedicion, con treinte bestias y el hurto de otras 
cosas que executaron, y que salio en su alcanze el Theniente de 

la expedicion con nueve soldados. 

Dia 13. Con la novedad acaecida se determino aguardar 
unos dias hasta que bolviesse el Theniente. Observe la altura de 
esta Mission, pero por estar el dia nublado no quede satisfecho de 
la observacion. 

Dia 14. A la noche Uegaron dos soldados de los que fueron 
con el Theniente quien los rebolvio por haverseles cansado los 
cavallos, y dixeron como el Theniente iva empefi[a]do en alcanzar 
a los desertores, cuyo rastro fresco iva siguiendo. 

Dia 15. No huvo cosa particular. 

[50] 



Diary of Pedro Pont. 51 

February 8. — The day began without rain, but it wavS decided 
to remain here today because the weather was not yet settled. 

February 9. — We set out from the presidio of San Diego — 
Commander Anza and the rest — at a quarter to nine in the 
morning, and, at a quarter past five in the afternoon, arrived at 
the place called Agua Hedionda, having travelled some thirteen 
leagues by the same road, and with directions corresponding to 
those of our coming, the principal being northwest. (Commander 
Rivera remained, as he decided not to proceed until he should 
finish capturing the offenders, and leave the presidio in security.) 

February 10. — We set out from Agua Hedionda at seven 
in the morning, and, at a quarter to six in the afternoon, halted 
at a small gully, one league before arriving at La Quema, having 
travelled some sixteen leagues, mainly to the northwest, and 
with the same variations as on the outward journey. 

February 11. — We set out from the little gully at seven in 
the morning, and, at half-past four in the afternoon, halted 
beside the Rio de Santa Ana after fording it, having travelled 
some fifteen leagues, with the varied direction as in coming, but 
following mainly to the northwest. 

February 12. — We set out from the Rio de Santa Ana at 
seven in the morning, and, at two in the afternoon, arrived at 
the mission of San Gabriel, having travelled some ten leagues 
with the variation of direction as in coming, but following mainly 
to the northwest. At this mission we learned the news that, last 
night, a soldier from Monterey and four servants and muleteers 
of the expedition had deserted, taking with them thirty animals, 
and other articles that they stole, and that the lieutenant of the 
expedition had started in pursuit of them with nine soldiers. 

February 13. — With this new condition of affairs, it was 
decided to wait some days until the lieutenant should return. 
I observed the latitude of this mission, but as the day was cloudy 
I was not satisfied with the observation. 

February 14. — At night two of the soldiers who went with 
the lieutenant returned; he ordered them back because their 
horses were tired out, and they told how the lieutenant was 
determined to overtake the deserters, following their fresh tracks. 

February 15. — There was nothing particular. 

[51] 



72 



52 Academy of Pacific Coast History. 

Dia 16. Proseguimos sin novedad especial. Leguas 

Dia 17. Bolvi a observar la altura de esta Mission, y la halle 
en 34? 5: i/o. Y assi digo : En la Mission de San Gabriel, dia 17. 
de Febrero de 1776 : Altura meridiana del bordo inferior del 
Sol: 43? 42; 

Dia 18. No se ofrecio novedad alguna. 

Dia 19. Bolvi a observar, para satisfacerme y salio la misma 
altura del dia 17. Se determino no aguardar al Theniente mas 
de hasta mafiana, en atencion a que se passaban los dias y se re- 
tardaba concluir el viage de la expedicion hasta Monterey. 

Dia 20. No vino el Theniente, eon que se resolvio proseguir 
la caminata. 

Dia 21. Salimos de la Mission de San Gabriel a las onze y 
media de la maiiana, y a las quatro y media de la tarde paramos 
en el Puertezuelo, haviendo caminado seys leguas, con el rumbo 6 
dos al oeste con alguna guiiiada a un lado y otro y las restantes 
al oestnoroeste. A las dos leguas passamos el rio de Poreiuncula. 

Dia 22. Salimos del Puertezuelo a las ocho de la maiiana, y 
a las tres y media de la tarde paramos en el parage llamado La 
agua Escondida, haviendo caminado unas diez leguas, con el lo 
rumbo como siete al oeste quarta al noroeste, y las restantes al 
oestsudoeste. 

74 Dia 23. Salimos del Agua Escondida a las ocho de la 
maiiana, y a las seys y media de la tarde llegamos al rio de Santa 
Clara, haviendo caminado unas quinze leguas con el rumbo tres 15 
al oestsudoeste cinco al oeste una al nordeste para &c., para coger 

la cuesta empinada, y finalmente baxada la cuesta, unas seys al 
oeste hasta el rio. 

75 Dia 24. Salimos del Rio de Santa Clara a las nueve y media 
de la manana y a las tres y media de la tarde paramos en un altito 
a orillas de la mar, cerca la rancheria de la Rinconada, haviendo 
caminado unas nueve leguas con el rumbo, tres al oeste hasta la 9 
playa del mar, y primera rancheria de la canal de Santa Bar- 
bara, llamada la carpinteria, situada cerca el rio de la Assumpta, 



73 



[52] 



Feb. 



Diary op Pedro Font. 53 

February 16. — We continued without special event. 1775 

February 17. — I again observed the latitude of this mission 
and found it to be 34° 5i/o' ; so I say : At the mission of San 
Gabriel, February 17, 1776, meridian altitude of the lower limb 
of the sun, 43° 42'. 

February 18. — Nothing whatever occurred. 

February 19. — I again observed the latitude, in order to 
satisfy myself, and obtained the same results as on the 17th. It 
was decided to wait for the lieutenant no longer than tomorrow, 
considering the fact that the days were passing, and the con- 
clusion of the journey of the expedition to Monterey was being 
retarded. 

February 20. — The lieutenant did not return, 60 it was 
decided to resume the march. 

February 21. — We set out from the mission of San Gabriel 
at half-past eleven in the morning, and, at half-past four in the 
afternoon, halted at El Puertezuelo, having travelled six leagues : 
two to the west, with some winding from one side to the other, 
and the remainder to the west-northwest. At the end of two 
leagues we crossed the Rio de Porciuncula. 

February 22. — We set out from El Puertezuelo at eight in 
the morning, and, at half-past three in the afternoon, halted at 
the place called Agua Escondida, having travelled some ten 
leagues : about seven west by north, and the remainder west- 
southwest. 

February 23. — We set out from Agua Escondida at eight in 
the morning, and, at half-past six in the afternoon, arrived at 
the Rio de Santa Clara, having travelled some fifteen leagues: 
three, to the west-southwest ; five, west ; one, northeast, when we 
came to the steep slope; and finally, when we had descended it, 
some six leagues to the west, as far as the river. 

February 24. — We set out from the Rio de Santa Clara at 
half-past nine in the morning, and, at half -past three in the after- 
noon, halted on a small bluff by the sea near the village of La 
Rinconada, having travelled some nine leagues : three to the west, 
as far as the seashore and the first village of the Canal de Santa 
Barbara, called La Carpinteria, situated near the Rio de la 



[53] 



54 Academy op Pacific Coast History, 

jornadas y las restantes al oeste quarta al noroeste con alguna declinacion Legnas 

dissimulada al oeste en las puntas de la costa, que hay varias. 

„Q Dia 25. Salimos de la rancheria de la Rinconada a las nueve 

de la maiiana y a las tres de la tarde paramos en un parage 

llamado las imediaciones de las rancherias de Mescaltitan, havien- 

do caminado unas nueve leguas con rumbo como seys al oeste 9 

quarta al noroeste, dos al noroeste, y al ultimo como una legua 

eorta al sudoeste. 

Dia 26. Salimos de las Ymediaciones de Mescaltitan a las 
77 

oeho y quarto de la maiiana, y a las tres y media de la tarde 

paramos en un altito a orillas de la mar cerca la rancheria nueva, 

haviendo caminado unas diez leguas lo mas por la playa, con el 10 

rumbo, como una al sudoeste, y dos al oestsudoeste para descabe- 

zar los esteros de IMescaltitan, y lo restante al oestnoroeste no 

cabal con alguna inclinacion al oeste. 

Dia 27. Salimos de Cerca la rancheria nueva a las ocho de 
78 

la manana, y a las tres y media de la tarde paramos a orillas de 

la mar cerca la rancheria del Coxo haviendo caminado unas diez 10 

leguas con el rumbo al oestnoroeste no cabal 6 con declinacion al 

oeste. 

Dia 28. Salimos de Cerca la rancheria del coxo a las ocho 

de la manana, y a las quatro de la tarde paramos cerca el rio 

de Santa Rosa haviendo caminado unas doze leguas, con el rumbo 12 

como una al noroeste, dos al nornoroeste, dos al noroeste, y dos al 

oestnoroeste siguiendo un medio circulo que hace aqui la costa 

hasta descabezar la punta de la concepcion que es la ultima de la 

canal y la mas salida : luego como una al norte dos al nornoroeste, 

y dos al noroeste, y paramos cerca la playa. 

go Dia 29. Salimos de Cerca el rio de Santa Rosa a medio dia, 

(que antes no pudo ser por ser preciso aguardar la marea baxa 
para vadear el rio de Santa Rosa) y a las tres y quarto paramos 
en la Laguna graciosa, haviendo caminado unas quatro leguas, 4 
con el rumbo al norte, y con alguna declinacion al nordeste. 

gj Dia 1. de Marzo. Salimos de la Laguna graciosa a las ocho 

de la maiiana y a las cinco y quarto de la tarde paramos en el 



[54] 



Diary of Pedro Font. 55 

Asumpta ; and the remainder, west by north, with some slight, 1776 
negligible deviation to the west at the several points on the coast. " • ' 

February 25. — AVe set out from the village of La Rineonada 
at nine in the morning, and, at three in the afternoon, halted at 
a place called Las Imediaeiones de las Rancherias de Mescaltitan, 
having travelled some nine leagues: about six, west by north; 
two, northwest ; and finally about a short league to the southwest. 

February 26. — We set out from Las Imediaeiones de IMescal- 
titan at a quarter past eight in the morning, and, at half-past 
three in the afternoon, halted on a small bluff by the sea near 
the Rancheria Nueva, having travelled some ten leagues, the 
greater part along the beach : about one to the southwest ; two to 
the west-southwest so as to roimd the estuaries of IMescaltitan ; 
and the remainder, nearly west-northwest or with some inclina- 
tion to the west. 

February 27. — We set out from the vicinity of the Rancheria 
Nueva at eight in the morning, and at half-past three in the after- 
noon, halted on the seashore near the Rancheria del Cojo, having 
travelled some ten leagues nearly west-northwest or with devia- 
tion to the west. 

February 28. — We set out from the vicinity of the Rancheria 
del Cojo at eight in the morning, and, at four in the afternoon, 
halted near the Rio de Santa Rosa, having travelled some twelve 
leagues : about one to the northwest ; two to the north-northwest ; 
two to the northwest ; and two to the west-northwest, following a 
semicircle that the coast makes here until we doubled the Punta 
de la Concepcion, which is the last point of the channel and the 
one that projects farthest ; then about one league to the north ; 
two to the north-northwest ; and two to the northwest. We halted 
near the beach. 

February 29. — We set out from the vicinity of the Rio de 
Santa Rosa at noon ( it was not possible earlier as it was necessary 
to wait for low tide in order to cross the Rio de Santa Rosa), and, 
at a quarter past three, halted at the Laguna Graciosa, having 
travelled some four leagues to the north, with some deviation to 
the northeast. 

March 1. — We set out from the Laguna Graciosa at eight in »#>T„gi 
the morning, and, at a quarter past five in the afternoon, halted 

[55] 



56 Academy of Pacific Coast History. 

jornadas parage de la Rancheria del Buchon, haviendo caminado unas Leguas 
treze leguas, con el rumbo, como tres al nordeste, una al nor- 13 
nordeste dos al norte dos al nornoroeste tres al noroeste por la 
playa, y dos al nornoroeste. 

Dia 2. Salimos de la Rancheria del Buchon a las ocho de la 
manana, y a las onze y tres quartos llegamos a la mission de San 
Luis Obispo, senalada en el mapa con la letra D., haviendo 
caminado unas quatro leguas con el rumbo, como una al norte, 4 
y lo restante al nornoroeste y noroeste, declinando algo al oeste, 
D un poco antes de llegar. Esta la Mission de San Luis situada en 
un hermoso parage de un altito imediato a un arroyo, cerca la 
sierra de Santa Lucia y a tres leguas del mar con tierras muy 
fertiles. Los yndios de esta Mission son limpios asseados, y mas 
bien carados y vistosos que los de ninguna otra nacion de quantas 
he visto. 

Dia 3. Nos detuvimos este dia. 

Observe la altura de esta Mission, y la halle en 35? 17: i/o. Y 
assi digo : En la Mission de San Luis Obispo, dia 3. de Marzo de 
1776: Altura meridiana del bordo inferior del Sol: 48? 4: 

Dia 4. Salimos de la mission de San Luis Obispo a las nueve 
de la mafiana, y a las quatro y tres quartos de la tarde, paramos 
en un parage llamado la Assumpcion, a orillas del rio de Monte- 
rey, con quien se ha juntado ya el rio de Santa Margarita, 
haviendo caminado unas diez leguas, con el rumbo como una al ^^ 
nordeste, quatro al norte, una al nornoroeste, dos al noroeste y 
dos al oestnoroeste. 
g^ Dia 5. Salimos del parage de la Assumpcion a las ocho y 

tres quartos de la manana, y a las quatro y quarto de la tarde 
paramos en la orilla del rio de San Antonio, en el parage llamado 
el primer vado, haviendo caminado unas diez leguas, con el rumbo 10 
como tres quasi al norte, cinco al noroeste, y dos al oestnoroeste. 
35 Dia 6. Salimos del parage del Primer vado a las siete y tres 

quartos de la maiiana, y a las quatro de la tarde llegamos a la 
Mission de San Antonio de los robles senalada en el mapa con la 
letra E., haviendo caminado diez leguas largas con el rumbo unas 10 
quatro al oeste, y oestnoroeste dos al noroeste, dos quasi al norte 
J, y dos al noroeste, y algo al oestnoroeste antes de llegar. La mis- 
sion de San Antonio esta situada en la Sierra de Santa Lucia 

[56] 



March 



Diary op Pedro Font. 57 

at the Rancheria del Buchon, having travelled some thirteen 1776 
leagues : about three to the northeast ; one to the north-northeast ; 
two to the north ; two to the north-northeast ; three to the north- 
east along the beach; and two to the north-northwest. 

March 2. — We set out from the Rancheria del Buchon at eight 
in the morning, and, at a quarter to twelve, arrived at the mis- 
sion of San Luis Obispo — marked on the map with the letter D — 
having travelled some four leagues : about one to the north, and 
the remainder to the north-northwest and northwest, deviating a 
little to the west shortly before arriving. The mission of San 
Luis [Obispo] is situated in a beautiful spot on a little rise beside 
a stream, near the Sierra de Santa Lucia, and three leagues from 
the sea, with very fertile lands. The Indians of this mission are 
clean, neat, and much better looking and seemly than those of 
any other nation I have seen. 

March 3. — We remained here today. I observed the latitude 
of this mission and found it to be 35° ITi/o' ; so I say : At the 
mission of San Luis Obispo, March 3, 1776, meridian altitude of 
the lower limb of the sun, 48° 4'. 

IMarch 4. — We set out from the mission of San Luis Obispo 
at nine in the morning, and, at a quarter to five in the afternoon, 
halted at a place called La Asuncion, on the banks of the Rio 
de ]\Ionterey (which the Rio de Santa Margarita has already 
joined), having travelled some ten leagues: about one to the 
northeast ; four to the north ; one to the north-northwest ; two to 
the northwest; and two to the west-northwest. 

IMarch 5. — We set out from La Asuncion at a quarter to nine 
in the morning, and, at a quarter past four in the afternoon, 
halted beside the Rio de San Antonio, at the place called Primer 
Vado, having travelled some ten leagues : about three almost due 
north ; five, northwest ; and two, west-northwest. 

March 6. — We set out from Primer Vado at a quarter to eight 
in the morning, and, at four in the afternoon, arrived at the 
mission of San Antonio de los Robles — marked on the map with 
the letter E — having travelled ten long leagues : some four to the 
west and west-northwest; two to the northwest; two almost due 
north ; two to the northwest and a little to the west-northwest 
just before arriving. The mission of San Antonio is situated in 

[57] 



58 Academy of Pacific Coast History. 

jornadas (la qual empieza un poco mas aba jo de la mission de San Luis Leguas 
y siguiendo la costa va a rematar cerca la mission de San Carlos 
del Carmelo,) en una Canada no muy angosta, y larga unas diez 
leguas, muy llena de grandes robles, por lo qual se llama la Mis- 
sion : San Antonio de la Canada de los Robles. Y es el parage 
muy bueno de lindas tierras y con suficiente agua del rio que 
sigue dicha cafiada pero algo apartado del mar. Los Yndios de 
esta mission son totalmente distinctos de los demas que he visto 
hasta aqui. 

Dia 7. Poco despues de medio dia llego a esta Mission el 
Theniente de la Expedicion que fue a seguir a los desertores, a 
los quales alcanzo y prendio, un poco mas alia del Pozo salobre 
del Carrizal yendo para la laguna de S*'* Olalla, y los dexo presos 
en la IVIission de San Gabriel. Observe la altura de esta Mission, 
y la halle en 36? 2: i/o- ^ assi digo : En la Mission de San An- 
tonio de los robles, dia 7. de Marzo, de 1776 : Altura meridiana 
del bordo inferior del sol: 48? 52: 

86 Dia 8. Salimos de la Mission de San Antonio de los Robles 
a las ocho y tres quartos de la maiiana, y a las tres y quarto de 
la tarde paramos en la orilla del rio de Monterey en el parage 
llamado Los Ossitos, haviendo caminado unas nueve leguas, con 9 
el rumbo como dos al nordeste, tres al norte, y algo al nornor- 
oeste, hasta passar un ramo de la sierra de Santa Lucia, y lo 
restante al noroeste. 

87 Dia 9. Salimos del parage de Los Ossitos a las ocho de la 
maiiana, y a las tres y quarto de la tarde paramos en la orilla 
del rio de Monterey en el parage llamado los Correos, haviendo 
caminado diez leguas con el rumbo, como seys al noroeste quarta 10 
al oeste, y las restantes al oestnoroeste. 

88 Dia 10. Salimos del Parage de los Correos a las nueve y 
quarto de la manana, y a las quatro y media de la tarde llegamos 

F al Real Presidio del Puerto de Monterey, senalado en el mapa 
con la letra F., haviendo caminado unas diez leguas con el rumbo 10 
las ocho al oestnoroeste, y las dos ultimas al oeste no cabal. 

El Real Presidio de Monterey esta situado en un llano, que 
hace la sierra de pinos que aqui remata, imediato al mar, y como 
a un quarto de legua del Puerto de Monterey. El Puerto consiste 



[58] 



Diary of Pedro Font. 59 

the Sierra de Santa Lucia (this begins a little below the mission 
of San Luis and, following the coast, terminates near the mission 
of San Carlos del Carmelo) in a canyon — not very narrow and 
some ten leagues long — that is entirely covered with great oaks; 
for this reason the mission is called San Antonio de la Canada 
de los Robles. The place is very suitable, having fine lands and 
plenty of water from the river which follows the canyon, but is 
at some distance from the sea. The Indians of this mission are 
totally distinct from those I have hitherto seen. 

March 7. — The lieutenant of the expedition, who had followed 
the deserters, arrived at this mission shortly after midday; he 
overtook and captured them a little beyond the Pozo Salobre del 
Carrizal going towards the Laguna de Santa Olalla, and left 
them prisoners at the mission of San Gabriel. I observed the 
latitude of this mission and found it to be 36° 221^'; so I say: 
At the mission of San Antonio de los Robles, March 7, 1776, 
meridian altitude of the lower limb of the sun, 48° 52'. 

^larch 8. — We set out from the mission of San Antonio de los 
Robles at a quarter to nine in the morning, and, at a quarter past 
three in the afternoon, halted beside the Rio de INIonterey, at the 
place called Los Ositos, having travelled some nine leagues : about 
two to the northeast ; three to the north, and a little to the north- 
northwest until we had passed a spur of the Sierra de Santa 
Lucia ; and the remainder to the northwest. 

March 9. — We set out from Los Ositos at eight in the morning, 
and, at a quarter past three in the afternoon, halted beside the 
Rio de Monterey, at the place called Los Correos, having travelled 
ten leagues : about six northwest by west, and the remainder west- 
northwest. 

March 10. — We set out from Los Correos at a quarter past 
nine in the morning, and, at half-past four in the afternoon, 
arrived at the Real Presidio del Puerto de Monterey — marked on 
the map with the letter F — having travelled some ten leagues: 
eight to the west-northwest, and the two last almost west. 

The Real Presidio de Monterey is situated on a plain formed 
by the Sierra de Pinos, which ends here ; it is by the sea and about 
a quarter of a league from the Puerto de ^Monterey. The port 
consists of a small bight sheltered to some extent by the Punta 

[59] 



60 Academy op Pacific Coast History. 

jornadas en Una pequena rinconada de que hace poco resguardo la punta Leguas 
de pinos, la qual se alarga como dos leguas, al mar, y forma con 
la punta de ano nuevo, que sale al mar como doze leguas, una 
grande ensenada pero muy abierta. La punta de Pinos respecto 
del presidio de Monterey de quien dista como tres leguas cae 
quasi al norte, y la punta de ano nuevo respecto del puerto de 
quien dista unas diez o doze leguas, cae como al noroeste. 
89 Dia 11. Por la manana vino de la mission de San Carlos del 

Carmelo el Muy R*^" P. Presidente de las missiones Fr. Junipero 
Serra, con otros quatro religiosos, a darnos la bienvenida, y can- 
tamos la missa en accion de gracias de nuestra feliz llegada. Ob- 
serve la Altura de este Presidio, (bien que no fue la observacion 
totalmente a mi gusto y con la exactitud que deseaba aunque 
puse en ella el mayor cuydado por estar el dia muy neblinoso,) 
y lo halle en 36? 36: 14. Y assi digo: En el Real Presidio del 
Puerto de Monterey, dia 11. de Marzo de 1776 : Altura meridiana 
del bordo inferior del Sol 49? 52: Se determino que passassemos 
a la Mission del Carmelo, assi por condescender a las instancias 
del R. P. Presidente, como principalmente porque en el presidio 
no huvo en donde hospedarnos; y quedandose en el Presidio el 
Theniente de la Expedicion con la gente conducida, salimos de 
dicho Presidio de Monterey el S'" Comandante, yo y otros pocos 
a las quatro de la tarde, y a las cinco llegamos a la Mission de 
San Carlos del Carmelo senalada en el mapa con la letra G. 
haviendo caminado una legua larga con el rumbo al sudoeste l 
quarta al sur. <Aqui nos recibieron los Padres que eran siete can- 
tando el tedeum, con festivos repiques y singular alegria.> 
Q Esta la ]\Iission de San Carlos del Carmelo situada en un 
altito imediato al mar y pegado al rio del Carmelo, el qual 
desagua en una pequena ensenada que en este parage se forma 
de la sierra de Santa Lucia, que aqui remata, y de la punta de 
cipreses. Es exelente parage y de tierra muy fertil. 

Dia 12. Nos detuvimos en esta mission a descansar. La 
pequena ensenada, a la qual llamo el S*" Capitan Vizcaino el 
puerto del carmelo, no merece nombre de puerto, pues a mas de 
que tiene mal sondeadero todo peiiascoso, esta totalmente des- 



[60] 



Diary of Pedro Font. 61 

de Pinos, which extends seaward about two leagues and forms, 1775 

with the Punta de Ano Nuevo, which runs seaward about twelve t?^ 

. March 

leagues, a large but very open bay. The Punta de Pinos has 

almost due north of the Presidio de Monterey, from which it is 

about three leagues distant; and the Punta de Ano Nuevo lies 

almost northwest of the port, from which it is some ten or twelve 

leagues distant. 

]\Iarch 11. — In the morning the Very Reverend Father-Presi- 
dent of the missions. Father Junipero Serra, with four other 
religious, came from the mission of San Carlos del Carmelo to 
welcome us, and we sang mass in thanksgiving for our safe 
arrival. I observed the latitude of this presidio (although, as 
the day was very foggy, the observation was not entirely to my 
satisfaction, nor as exact as I desired, even though I took the 
greatest care), and found it to be 36° 36I/2'; so I say: At the 
Real Presidio del Puerto de Monterey, March 11, 1776, meridian 
altitude of the lower limb of the sun, 49° 52'. It was decided 
that we should go to the mission [of San Carlos] del Carmelo, as 
much to accede to the solicitations of the father-president, as, 
and that principal!}^ — because there was no place in the presidio 
for us to lodge ; the lieutenant of the expedition, with the people 
who were being brought, remained at the presidio. The Com- 
mander, I, and some few others set out from the presidio of 
Monterey at four in the afternoon, and, at five, arrived at the 
mission of San Carlos del Carmelo — marked on the map with 
the letter G — having travelled one long league southwest by 
south. Here the fathers — there were seven of them — received us, 
singing the Te Deum, with peals of bells, and great rejoicing. 

The mission of San Carlos del Carmelo is situated on a rising 
ground near the sea and close to the Rio del Carmelo, which 
empties into a small bay formed by the Sierra de Santa Lucia, 
which terminates here, and the Punta de Cipreses. The site is 
splendid, and the land very fertile. 

]\larch 12. — We remained at the mission to rest. The little 
bay, called the Puerto del Carmelo by Captain Vizcaino, does 
not deserve the name of a port for, in addition to its having a 
bad anchorage, it is entirely exposed to the northwest, from 



[61] 



62 Academy of Pacific Coast History, 

jornadas cubierta por el noroeste que es el viento que aqui mas reyna, y Leguas 
solo esta resguardada algo por el este y sur con la sierra de 
Santa Lucia. 

Dia 13. A media manana acometio al S*" Comandante un 
dolor tan recio en la ingle que lo hizo poner en cama. 

Dia 14. Prosiguio el S"" Comandante malo en la cama sin 
poderse levantar. 

Dia 15. Siguio el S^ Comandante sin especial alivio. 

Dia 16. Estuvo el S"" Comandante del mismo modo. Observe 
la altura de esta Mission y la halle en 36? 34: I/2. Y assi digo: 
En la Mission de San Carlos del Carmelo, dia 16. de Marzo de 
1776: Altura meridiana del bordo inferior del sol: 51? 52: 

Dia 17. Amanecio el S^ Comandante algo aliviado. 

Dia 18. Siguio el S^ Comandante con algun alivio. 

Dia 19. Prosiguio el S*" Comandante con alguna mejoria. 
Bolvi a observar la altura de esta mission, y no apunto esta ob- 
servacion porque salio la misma que el dia 16. con diferencia de 
un minuto de mas. 

Dia 20. Amanecio el S'" Comandante tan aliviado que deter- 
mino seguir el viage para el registro del puerto de S"^ Francisco 
de aqui a dos dias. 

Dia 21. Bolvi a observar, y juntamente conmigo hicieron 
su observacion el P. Fr, Francisco Palou con su Grafometro, y 
el P. Fr. Juan Crespi eon su astrolabio ; y no apunto esta obser- 
vacion porque es la misma que la del dia 16., con medio minuto 
mas, aunque en los minutos algo nos diferenciamos los tres. 
90 Dia 22. Bolvimos a observar los tres como ayer y salio la 

observacion quasi como la passada, aunque tampoco convenimos 
en los minutos. Salimos de la Mission de San Carlos del Carmelo 
el S*" Comandante y yo para passar (con el Theniente de la 
Expedicion) al puerto de San Francisco, a las tres de la tarde, 
y a las quatro llegamos al Presidio de Monterey, haviendo 
caminado una legua al nordeste quarta al norte. 1 



[62] 



Diary op Pedro Font. 63 

which direction comes the prevailing wind, and is only partially 
sheltered on the east and south by the Sierra de Santa Lucia. 

INIarch 13. — In the middle of the forenoon the commander was 
attacked with such a violent pain in the groin that he was forced 
to go to bed. 

]\Iarch 14. — The commander continued sick in bed, not being 
able to get up. 

March 15. — The commander continued without appreciable 
relief. 

March 16. — The commander remained in the same condition. 
I observed the latitude of this mission and found it to be 36° 
341/2' ; so I say : At the mission of San Carlos del Carmelo, March 
16, 1776, meridian altitude of the lower limb of the sun, 51° 52'. 

March 17. — This morning the commander appeared to be 
somewhat improved. 

March 18. — The commander continued to improve somewhat. 

March 19. — The commander continued to get better. I again 
observed the latitude of this mission; I do not set down this 
observation because it came out the same as that of the 16th, with 
the difference of one minute more. 

March 20. — This morning the commander was so much im- 
proved that he decided to resume the journey for exploring the 
port of San Francisco two days hence. 

March 21. — I again made an observation and, at the same 
time. Father Francisco Palou made his observation with his 
graphometer, and Father Juan Crespi with his astrolabe. I do 
not set down this observation because it is the same as that of 
the 16th, with half a minute more, although the three of us 
differed somewhat in regard to the minutes. 

March 22. — We three again made observations as yesterday 
and the result came out almost the same as the former one, 
although we again could not agree on the minutes. The com- 
mander and I set out from the mission of San Carlos del Carmelo 
to proceed (with the lieutenant of the expedition) to the port of 
San Francisco. [We started] at three in the afternoon and 
arrived at the presidio of Monterey at four, having travelled one 
league northeast by north. 



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64 Academy of Pacific Coast History. 

jomadas Dia 23. Salimos del presidio de Monterey a las nueve y Leguas 

91 media de la maiiana con el Theniente y onze soldados, y a las 
tres y tres quartos de la tarde paramos del otro lado del Valle 
de Santa Delfina al entrar en una cailada en el parage llamado 
La Natividad, haviendo caminado unas oeho leguas largas, con § 
el rumbo algo mas de una legua al este, y tres al nordeste con 
alguna declinacion al norte, hasta passar el rio de monterey; 
luego como tres al nordeste, y una al nornordeste. 

92 Dia 24. Salimos del Parage de la Natividad a las siete y 
tres quartos de la maiiana y a las quatro y quarto de la tarde 
paramos en el arroyo de las llagas, haviendo caminado unas doze 12 
leguas, con el rumbo dos al nordeste, y algo al este al encumbrar 

la sierra para baxar al arroyo de San Benito, y una al norte, dos al 
nordeste, con alguna inclinacion al norte, hasta passar el rio del 
paxaro ; una quasi al norte tres al nornoroeste por el Valle de 
S'' Bernardino, y tres al noroeste. 

93 Dia 25. Salimos del arroyo de las llagas a las siete y tres 
quartos de la manana, y a las quatro de la tarde paramos en el 
arroyo de San Joseph Cupertino, haviendo caminado unas doze 12 
leguas con el rumbo tres al noroeste dos al noroeste quarta al 
oeste cinco al oestnoroeste, y dos al oeste quarta al noroeste. 

94 Dia 26. Salimos del Arroyo de San Joseph Cupertino a las 
siete y media de la manana, y a las tres y tres quartos de la tarde 
paramos en un Aroyito quasi seco como una legua corta despues de 
passar el arroyo de San ]\Iatheo, haviendo caminado unas doze 12 
leguas con el rumbo, una al noroeste otra al nornoroeste, y luego 
unas quatro al oestnoroeste hasta passar el arroyo de San Fran- 
cisco : despues tres al noroeste, quarta al oeste, y tres al oest- 
noroeste. 

gg Dia 27. Salimos del Arroyito a las siete de la manana, y 

poco despues de las onze paramos a la orilla de una laguna 6 
manantial de linda agua imediata a la boca del Puerto de S° 
Francisco, haviendo caminado unas seys leguas, con el rumbo q 
las tres primeras al noroeste, y las tres ultimas al nornoroeste, y 
aun quasi al norte. 

H El puerto de San Francisco senalado en el mapa con la letra 

H. es una maravilla de la naturaleza, y se puede llamar puerto de 



[64] 



Diary of Pedro Font. 65 

March 23. — We set out from the presidio of Monterey at half- 
past nine in the morning with the lieutenant and eleven soldiers 
and, at a quarter to four, halted on the other side of the Valle 
de Santa Delfina at the entrance of a canyon in the place called 
La Natividad, having travelled some eight long leagues: rather 
more than one league to the east ; three, to the northeast with some 
deviation to the north, to where we crossed the Rio de Monterey; 
then, about three to the northeast and one to the north-northeast. 

March 24. — We set out from La Natividad at a quarter to 
eight in the morning and, at a quarter past four in the afternoon, 
halted at the Arroyo de las Llagas, having travelled some twelve 
leagues: two to the northeast, and a little to the east when we 
ascended the mountain to go down to the Arroyo de San Benito ; 
one, north; two, northeast with some deviation to the north, to 
where we crossed the Rio del Paxaro; one almost due north; 
three, north-northwest through the Valle de San Bernardino ; and 
three, to the northwest. 

]\Iarch 25. — We set out from the Arroyo de las Llagas at a 
quarter to eight in the morning and, at four in the afternoon, 
halted at the Arroyo de San Joseph Cupertino, having travelled 
some twelve leagues: three to the northwest; two northwest by 
west; five, west-northwest; and two, west by north. 

]\Iarch 26. — We set out from the Arroyo de San Joseph 
Cupertino at half-past seven in the morning, and, at a quarter to 
four in the afternoon, halted at a small, almost dry, watercourse, 
about one short league after crossing the Arroyo de San Mateo, 
having travelled some twelve leagues : one, northwest ; one, north- 
northwest; then some four, west-northwest, to where we crossed 
the Arroyo de San Francisco; then, three, northwest by west; 
and three, west-northwest. 

March 27. — We set out from the small watercourse at seven 
in the morning and, a little after eleven, halted beside a pond 
or spring of fine water near the mouth of the port of San Fran- 
cisco, having travelled some six leagues: the first three to the 
northwest, and the last three, north-northwest and even very 
nearly north. 

The port of San Francisco — marked on the map with the 
letter H — is a wonder of nature, and may be called the port of 

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66 Academy of Pacific Coast History. 

puertos por su mucha capacidad y varies recodos que encierra en 
sus margenes o playa y en las yslas. La boca del puerto que 
parece ser de muy facil y segura entrada, tendra como una legua 
de largo, y algo mas de una legua de ancho por la parte exterior 
que mira al mar, y como un quarto de legua por la parte interior 
que mira al puerto. El remate interior de la boca lo forman dos 
cantiles muy altos y derechos, de este lado un cantil bianco y 
del otro lado un cantil Colorado y estan rectos de sur a norte. 
<E1 remate exterior de la boca lo forman del otro lado unos 
penascos grandes, y de este lado una loma alta y medanosa que 
remata quasi en punta redonda y tiene en su falda dentro del 
agua unos penascos blancos como farallones pequeiios a la qual 
llego el S^ Comandante Ribera quando fue a reconocer este 
Puerto y puso en ella una cruz.> Corre la Costa de la boca por 
la parte de alia de estnordeste a oestsudoeste, lo que observe dia 1. 
de Abril desde el otro lado del estero 6 puerto quando passe por 
alii la qual parece ser toda de peiiasqueria colorada. La costa de 
la boca por la parte de aca corre de nordeste a sudoeste no recta 
sino formando un recodo en cuya playa desagua un arroyo que 
sale de la laguna en donde paramos, y lo llamamos el arroyo del 
puerto, al qual puede llegar la lancha a hazer agua, pues en toda 
la costa del treeho de la boca ya esta la mar quieta y no rebientan 
las olas en la playa como en la costa del mar afuera. La punta 
de Almejas respecto la punta exterior de la boca del puerto de 
este lado, cae al sur y distara por el ayre unas tres leguas for- 
mando la playa que es muy medanosa quasi un medio circulo. 
La punta de Reyes del otro lado respecto dicha punta exterior de 
la Boca cae al noroeste quarta al oeste y tendra la costa hasta la 
dicha punta unas doce leguas de largo, la qual no corre igual 
sino formando un recodo 6 ensenada no muy grande, segun pude 
ver, como a las tres 6 quatro leguas. Dentro del mar como a 
unas seys u ocho leguas se miran unos farallones algo grandes 
que hacen esta figura [Frontispiece, fig. 1] y respecto la punta 
exterior de la Boca del Puerto caen al oeste quarta al sudoeste: 
y al oeste de dicha punta se miran mas adentro otros quatro 
farallones que forman a la vista esta figura [Frontispiece, fig. 2] . 



[66] 



Diary of Pedro Font. 67 

ports, on account of its great capacity and the various bights 1776 

included in its litoral or shore and in its islands. The mouth of !rr^ 
. J, p March 

the port, which appears to be very easy of access and safe, may 
be about one league in length, and rather more than a league in 
width on the outside looking to the sea, and about a quarter of 
a league on the inside looking toward the port. The inner end 
of the entrance is formed by two very steep and high cliffs, on 
this side a white cliff, and on the other side a red one, and they 
face directly south and north. The outer end of the entrance is 
formed on the other side by some great rocks, and on this side 
by a high and sandy hill which almost ends in a round point 
and has at its skirt in the water some white rocks like little 
farallones; this point Commander Rivera reached when he came 
to explore this port, and planted a cross upon it. The coast of 
the entrance on the other side runs from east-northeast to west- 
southwest; this I observed on the first of April, from the other 
side of the estuary or port, when I went there, and it appears to 
be all of red rocky material. The coast of the entrance on this side 
runs from northeast to southwest, not straight but forming a 
bend, on the beach of which a stream empties that flows from the 
pond where we halted ; we called it the Arroyo del Puerto. The 
boat can reach this stream to get water, for on the entire stretch 
of the shore at the mouth the sea is quiet and the waves do not 
break on the beach as they do on the shore of the open sea. The 
Punta de Almejas, in relation to the outer point of the entrance 
on this side, lies to the south, and must be some three leagues 
distant in an air-line. The beach, which consists of sand-dimes, 
forms almost a semicircle. The Punta de Reyes, on the other 
side, in relation to the said outer point of the entrance, lies north- 
west b}^ west; the coast, as far as the said point, must be some 
twelve leagues in length, and does not run evenly, but forms a 
bight or bay, which is not very large, from what I could see at 
a distance of about three or four leagues. Some six or eight 
leagues out to sea, a group of rather large rocky islets (farallones) 
can be seen — they have this form : [Frontispiece, fig. 1] and lie, in 
relation to the outer point of the entrance, west by south. West 
of the said point, farther out, four other farallones can be seen 
— they look like this : [Frontispiece, fig. 2] . 

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68 Academy of Pacific Coast History. 

Segun noticias que adquiri, el puerto de Bodega descubierto por 
el S"" Capitan de la Goleta D^^ Juan de la Quadra y Bodega dia 3. 
de Octubre de 1775. situado bajo la latitud de 38? 18: cae unas 
quatro leguas al norte de la punta de reyes, cuya boea la forman 
la punta del cordon por este lado y por el otro la punta de are- 
nas ; y a una legua al noroeste de la boca cae la punta de Murguia, 
por la qual sigue la costa. Desde la punta interior de la boca 
sigue el famoso puerto de San Francisco y este consiste en una 
grande ensenada 6 estero que le llaman que tendra unas veinte y 
cineo leguas de largo y mirado desde la boca corre como de sud- 
este a noroeste, a cuya mitad esta la entrada 6 boea. Lo mas de 
la playa del puerto, segun la vi quando le dimos buelta, no es 
limpia sino lodosa, atascosa, y llena de zanjones, y por esto mala. 
Lo ancho del puerto no es igual pues en el extremo del sudeste 
tendra una legua, en la mitad unas quatro leguas, y en el ex- 
tremo del noroeste remata con una gran baia de algo mas de ocho 
leguas segun me parecio, cuya playa vi limpia y no atascosa 
como la antecedente y tiene la figura quasi redonda, aunque se le 
notan varios recodos, con los quales en tan larga distancia no 
pude distinguir bien su figura. Como a la mitad de la bahia 
por la costa de este lado esta el desague 6 desemboque del que 
hasta ahora se tuvo por rio muy grande y se ha llamado el rio 
de San Francisco, y yo de aqui adelante le llamare la boca del 
puerto dulce, por los experimentos que se hicieron quando fuimos 
a su reeonocimiento y dire mas adelante. Dentro del puerto 
conte ocho islas : <y no puedo assegurar si hay mas.> la primera 
que se ofrece al entrar al puerto, cuyo centro mirado desde la 
punta exterior de la boca de este lado, cae respecto de ella al 
nordeste quarta al norte, y esta como a una legua de la boca, se 
llama la isla del angel, 6 de los angeles, detras de la qual dio 
fondo el barco San Carlos <la que tendra de largo una legua 
corta y mirada dx. mirada desde la boca hace esta figura: 
[Frontispiece, fig. 5].> Enf rente la boca hay una muy pequeiia, 
como Farallon y otra no tan pequeGa y como al sudeste otra 
mas grande : otra bien larga se mira al extremo del sudeste muy 



[68] 



Diary of Pedro Font. 69 

According to the particulars that I obtained, the Puerto de 1775 
Bodega, — discovered on October 3, 1775, by Don Juan de la^^^ 
Bodega y Quadra, captain of the schooner [Sonora] — situated 
in latitude 38° 18', lies some four leagues north of the Punta de 
Reyes. Its entrance is formed, on this side, by the Punta del 
Cordon, and on the other, by the Punta de Arenas. One league 
northwest of the entrance lies the Punta de JNIurguia, and from 
there the coast runs on. 

From the interior point of the entrance runs the wonderful 
port of San Francisco; this consists of a great bay or estero, as 
they call it, which must be some twenty-five leagues in length, 
and, as seen from the entrance, runs about southeast and north- 
west; at the middle is the entrance or mouth. The greater part 
of the shore of the port, as I saw it when we made the circuit 
of it, is not clear, but miry, marshy, and full of ditches, and is 
consequently bad. The width of the port is not uniform — at the 
southeastern end it must be a league; in the middle, some four 
leagues ; and at the northwestern end it terminates in a great bay 
of upwards of eight leagues, as it seemed to me. I found the 
shore of this bay clean, and not marshy like the former; in shape 
it is nearly round, although various bights were noticed in it, 
which at so great a distance prevented me from clearly dis- 
tinguishing its shape. At about the middle of the bay, along the 
coast of this side, is the outlet or mouth of what has hitherto 
been taken to be a very large river, and has been called the Rio 
de San Francisco ; I shall, henceforth, call it the Boca del Puerto 
Dulce, because of the investigations that were made when we went 
to examine it, of which I shall speak later. 

Inside the port I counted eight islands, and I cannot state 
whether there are more. The first to be met on entering the port 
— its center, observed from the outer point of the entrance, on this 
side, lies northwest by north in respect to this point, and is about 
one league from the entrance — is called the Isla del Angel, or de 
los Angeles ; behind it the San Carlos anchored. It must be one 
short league in length and, seen from the entrance, has this form : 
[Frontispiece, fig. 3] . Opposite the entrance there is a very small 
islet, like a farallon, and another, not so small ; and about south- 
east, another large one. Another quite long one can be seen at 

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70 Academy of Pacific Coast History. 

pegada a tierra. Otra como de tres leguas de largo tambien 
pegada a la tierra se ve de la boca para el noroeste y cerea de 
ella otras dos pequenas, las quales parece que por esse lado 
empiezan a formar la gran bahia en que remata todo esse imenso 
pielago de aguas, que por encerradas y rodeadas de sierra estan 
tan quietas como en una taza. Finalmente en la Bahia, y en- 
frente la Boca del Puerto dulce hay una isla mediana a mas de 
las dichas. 

Dia 28. Determino el S'" Comandante fixar la S*^ Cruz en 
el extremo del cantil bianco de la punta interior de la boca del 
puerto, y a las ocho de la maiiana fuimos para alia. Subimos 
una lomita eorta, y luego entramos en una mesa muy despejada 
de bastante extension y plana con alguna declinacion para el 
puerto, la qual tendra como media legua de ancho y algo mas 
de largo, y se va estrechando hasta rematar en el mismo cantil 
bianco. Logra esta mesa de una deliciosissima vista, pues desde 
ella se descubre una buena parte del puerto y sus islas, la boca 
del puerto, y del mar lo que alcanza la vista hasta mas alia de 
los farallones. Esta mesa sefialo el S'^ Comandante para sitio de 
la nueba poblacion, y fuerte que se havia de establecer en este 
Puerto, pues por estar en alto esta tan dominante que a fusilazos 
se puede defender la entrada de la boca del puerto, y a un tiro 
de fusil tiene el agua para la munutension de la gente que es el 
manantial 6 laguna en donde paramos. Bolvi a reconocer la 
boca del puerto y su configuracion con un Grafometro y procure 
demarcarla ; cuyo plan es el que aqui pongo, y desde alii determino 
el S*" Comandante ir a registrar las lomas que van para lo interior 
del puerto, las quales miradas desde el arroyo de San ]\Iatheo 
hacen esta figura [Frontispiece, fig. 4] para ver si en aquellas 
imediaciones hallaba buenas proporciones para la comodidad de 
la nueba poblacion. Acompaiie al S^ Comandante un rato, y a 
las diez de la maiiana, prosiguiendo el S^ Comandante con el 
Theniente su registro me bolvi al real para poder observar. Ob- 
serve la altura de este puerto y lo halle en 37? 49: Y assi digo: 



[70] 



Diary op Pedro Font. 71 

the southeastern end, very close to the land. Another, about 1776 
three leagues in length, also close to the land, is seen towards the ^"^ 
northwest from the entrance ; near it there are two other small 
ones, which, apparently, begin on that side to form the great bay 
in which terminates all this immense body of water; this being 
closed in and surrounded by mountains is as quiet as in a cup. 
Finally, in the bay and opposite the Boca del Puerto Dulce, there 
is a medium-sized island, besides those already mentioned. 

March 28. — The commander decided to erect the holy cross on 
the extremity of the white cliff at the inner point of the entrance 
to the port, and we went there at eight o'clock in the morning. 
We ascended a small low hill, and then entered a table-land, 
entirely clear, of considerable extent, and flat, with a slight slope 
towards the port; it must be about half a league in width and 
a little more in length, and keeps narrowing until it ends in the 
white cliff. This table-land commands a most wonderful view, 
as from it a great part of the port is visible, with its islands, the 
entrance, and the ocean, as far as the eye can reach — even farther 
than the farallones. The commander marked this table-land as 
the site of the new settlement, and the fort which is to be astab- 
lished at this port, for, from its being on a height it is so com- 
manding that the entrance of the mouth of the port can be 
defended by musket-fire, and at the distance of a musket-shot 
there is water for the use of the people, that is, the spring or 
pond where we halted. 

I again examined the mouth of the port and its configuration 
with a graphometer, and attempted to survey it; the plan of it 
is the one I here set down. 

From there the commander decided to go and inspect the low 
hills leading toward the inner part of the port — which, seen from 
the Arroyo de San Mateo have this form : [Frontispiece, fig. 4] — 
to see whether in those surroundings there were adequate facilities 
for the comfort of the new settlement. I accompanied the com- 
mander for a while, and, at ten in the morning, the commander 
and the lieutenant continuing the exploration, returned to the 
camp to make an observation. I observed the latitude of this 
port and found it to be 37° 49'; so I say: At the mouth of the 



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72 Academy of Pacific Coast History. 

jornadas En la boca del Puerto de S'^ Francisco, dia 28. de Marzo de 1776 : Legnas 
Altiira meridiana del bordo inferior del Sol : 55? 21: Como a 
las cinco de la tarde bolvieron del registro el S'^ Comandante y 
el Theniente muy contentos, por haver hallado mas de lo que 
esperaban en el reeinto de estas lomas cuya extension sera de 
Unas tres leguas. En ellas y en sus canadas eneontraron mucho 
bosque y leiia, mucha agua en varios manantiales 6 lagunas, 
bastantes tierras de pan llevar, y en fin muchissimo pasto en todo 
el terreno : de modo, que puede lograr la nueva poblacion mucha 
leiia, agua, y zacate 6 pasto para cavallada, todo cerca : y solo le 
faltan maderas para fabricas grandes, aunque para jaeales y bar- 
raeas y para estacada del Presidio hay bastante palizada en los 
bosques. Y con una corta providencia que se de se pueden lograr 
las maderas como las quisieren pues desde unas seys leguas mas 
alia del arroyo de S*^ Joseph Cupertino hasta unas tres leguas 
mas aca del arroyo de S'^ Francisco sigue un llano como de quinze 
leguas que le llaman el llano de los robles por estar muy tupido 
de ellos y de todos tamanos del qual se pueden sacar muy buenas 
maderas. A mas de esto, desde las cercanias del arroyo de las 
llagas sigue hasta la punta de almejas una serrania muy alta lo 
mas de ella tupida de pinabetes y otros arboles los quales llegan 
hasta la Canada de S'^ Andres de la qual hablare maiiana : y de 
estos parages se puede sacar la madera quanta se quisiere de 
todos tamanos, y no con mucho trabajo, pues la saca no esta muy 
dificultosa. Los yndios que vimos en el camino desde monterey 
parecen mansos, y de buena condicion, y muy pobres y por lo 
desarmados que se presentaron no dieron muestras de belicosos 
ni malintencionados ; y los que habitan en las cercanias del 
Puerto son bastantemente barbados pero en el color no se dis- 
tinguen de los demas. 
96 Dia 29. Salimos de la Laguna 6 manantial de donde nace el 
arroyo del puerto a las siete y quarto de la maiiana, y a las seys y 
media de la tarde paramos en el arroyo de San Matheo, haviendo 
caminado unas quinze leguas, por el rodeo que hicimos y voy a 15 
decir, pues desde el puerto a dicho arroyo solo havra unas seys 
leguas largas por el camino recto. Con el motivo de lo que se 



[72] 



Diary of Pedro Font. 73 

port of San Francisco, March 28, 1776, meridian altitude of the 
lower limb of the sun, 55° 21'. 

About five in the afternoon the commander and the lieutenant 
returned from their exploration very much pleased, as they had 
found more than they hoped for in the district of the low hills, 
which extended for some three leagues. In these hills and their 
canyons they found much brush and firewood, plenty of water in 
various springs or ponds, much tillable ground, and also plenty 
of pasture everywhere, so that the new settlement can obtain much 
wood, water, and grass or pasturage for their horses, all close at 
hand — there is lacking only timber for large edifices, although 
for huts and barracks, and for the stockade of the presidio there 
is sufficient material in the woods. With a little forethought, 
however, they can obtain the lumber just as they want it, for from 
about six leagues beyond the Arroyo de San Joseph Cupertino 
to some three leagues this side of the Arroyo de San Francisco 
there lies a plain about fifteen leagues in extent, called the Llano 
de los Robles because it is very densely grown with all sizes of 
oaks, from which very good lumber may be taken out. Besides 
this, from the neighborhood of the Arroj^o de las Llagas there 
extends as far as the Punta de Almejas a very high range, the 
greater part of it densely covered with spruce and other trees 
which extend as far as the Canada de San Andres, of which I 
shall speak tomorrow. From these places wood can be obtained 
in any desired quantity and size without much trouble, for it is 
not hard to get out. 

The Indians that we saw on the road to Monterey seem to be 
gentle, good-natured, and very poor, and as they presented them- 
selves unarmed they gave no sign of being warlike or ill-inten- 
tioned. Those who live near the port are pretty well bearded, 
but in color are not distinct from the others. 

March 29. — At a quarter past seven in the morning we set out 
from the lake or spring where the Arroyo del Puerto has its 
source, and halted, at half-past six in the evening, at the Arroyo 
de San Mateo, having travelled some fifteen leagues by the round- 
about which we took and of which I am going to speak, as from 
the port to the Arroyo de San Mateo it is only some six full 
leagues by the direct road. 

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74 Academy of Pacific Coast History. 

registro ayer determino el S"" Comandante salir del piierto dando 
buelta a las lomas que lo cercan en las imediaciones de la boca, y 
seguir su playa interior hasta salir a la tierra liana ; por lo qual 
despacho la requa por el camino recto con orden de que parasse 
en el arroyo de San Matheo ; y cogiendo nosotros distincto rumbo, 
caminamos como una legua al este, una al estsudeste, y una al 
sudeste, y llegamos a un hermoso arroyo, que por ser viernes de 
Dolores le llamamos el arroyo de los dolores. Desde un altito 
observe aqui el rumbo del puerto por este viento y vl que su ex- 
tremo caia al estsudeste ; y que un Pinabete muy alto que de muy 
lexos se divisa descollando como una gran torre en el llano de 
los robles, y esta a la orilla del arroyo de S" Francisco, cuya altura 
medi despues, caia al sudeste. Caminamos como tres leguas mas 
con rumbo al sur al sudoeste y al oestnoroeste dando buelta a 
las lomas hasta salir al llano y encontramos con el camino por 
el qual anduvimos un poco con rumbo al sudeste. Aqui deter- 
mino el S^ Comandante passar a registrar una canada imediata 
llamada de S"" Andres que esta en la serrania de pinabetes (que 
tambien llaman palo Colorado) y remata en la punta de almejas 
con el fin de ver si tenia buenas maderas para la poblacion del 
puerto. Por lo qual dexando el camino caminamos como una 
legua corta al sudoeste, y algo al sur y entramos en dicha caiiada 
en la qual vimos siguiendola mucho bosque y con mucha palizada 
y varia de buena madera, enzinos, madronos, pinabete y tambien 
alamos y otros arboles y mucho varejon en la orilla del arroyo 6 
laguna larga y angosta que sigue por esta canada y de ella se 
forma el arroyo de San ]\Iatheo, que sale al llano por una angos- 
tura que forman unas lomas. Caminamos unas quatro leguas 
con rumbo al sudeste y sudeste quarta al sur. y passamos el 
arroyo de S'^ Matheo que aqui entra por la augostura de las 
lomas, y como una legua antes nos salio al camino un osso muy 
grande que se logro matarlo, de los quales hay muchos por essas 
tierras. Luego caminamos unas dos leguas al estsudeste, y dan- 



[74] 



Diary of Pedro Font. 75 

As a result of the reconnoissance made yesterday, the com- 1775 
mander decided to set out from the port by skirting the hills "HT^^ 
which surround it in the vicinity of the mouth, and to follow the 
inner shore until he should reach the level ground. For this rea- 
son he sent off the pack-train by the direct road with orders to 
stop at the Arroyo de San Mateo. We ourselves, taking a different 
route, travelled about one league to the east, one to the east- 
southeast, and one to the southeast, and arrived at a beautiful 
stream, which, because this was the Friday of Sorrows, we called 
the Arroyo de los Dolores. 

From a slight eminence, I here observed the lay of the port 
from this point and saw that its extremity lay to the east-south- 
east. I also noticed that a very high spruce tree, which is to be 
seen at a great distance, rising up, like a great tower, from the 
Llano de los Robles — it stands on the banks of the Arroyo de San 
Francisco; later on I measured its height — lay to the southeast. 

We travelled about three leagues more to the south, the south- 
west, and the west-northwest, skirting the hills until we came 
out on the plain and struck the road, by which we proceeded a 
short distance to the southeast. Here the commander decided 
to go and examine a nearby canyon, called the Canada de San 
Andres, which lies in the range wooded with spruce — they also 
call this tree palo Colorado [redwood] — and terminates at the 
Punta de Almejas, in order to see if it contained good timber for 
the settlement at the port. 

AYe therefore left the road and travelled about one short 
league to the southwest, and a little south, and entered this 
canyon. As we followed it we saw much woodland with thick 
undergrowth and several kinds of good timber: oak, madrono, 
spruce, as well as poplars and other trees, and much shrubbery 
on the banks of the long narrow stream or lake that runs through 
this canyon and gives rise to the Arroyo de San ]\Iateo, which 
issues into the plain through a narrow opening between some 
hills. We travelled about four leagues southeast and southeast 
by south, and crossed the Arroyo de San IMateo, which here 
penetrates the narrow opening in the hills. About a league 
back, a huge bear, which we succeeded in killing, appeared in 
our path — there are many bears throughout this district. We 

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76 Academy of Pacific Coast History. 

jornadas dose por suficiente el registro de esta Canada se determino ir para Leguas 
el real, y atravessando unas lomas altas eaminamos unas dos 
leguas con rumbo quasi al norte, hasta llegar al parage. 

97 Dia 30. Salimos del arroyo de San Matheo a las siete y 
quarto de la nianana, y a las quatro de la tarde paramos del 
otro lado de un rio, que le llamamos el rio de Guadalupe (el qual, 
desagua en el extremo del puerto y como una legua antes de 
desaguar esta muy profundo por tener el agua muy rebalsada 

y sin corriente) haviendo caminado unas doze leguas con rumbo 12 
vario. Al salir seguimos el camino de la ida unas seys leguas con 
el rumbo correspondiente hasta llegar al arroyo de S° Francisco, 
en cuya orilla esta el pinabete que dixe ayer, cuya altura medi 
con el Grafometro <que prestaron en la Mission de San Carlos 
del Carmelo,> y lo halle a poco mas o menos segun el calculo 
que hize, de unas cincuenta varas de alto, y el tronco tenia por 
el pie cinco varas y media de circumferencia, y dixeron los solda- 
dos que aun havia mayores en las sierras. Con la determinacion 
de ir a registrar el rio grande que llamaban de San Francisco, 
y se decia desaguaba en el puerto por la parte del norte, desde 
aqui dexamos el camino que traximos a la venida, y mudando de 
rumbo eaminamos para el agua, pero apartados de ella como una 
legua, y en partes mas, por causa de los atascaderos, y seguimos 
unas tres leguas con rumbo al este : luego eaminamos empezando 
a descabezar este extremo del puerto como tres leguas al nordeste, 
y al ultimo culebreando de oeste a este para vadear el rio, y hasta 
el parage. 

98 Dia 31. Salimos del Rio de Guadalupe a las ocho de la 
manana, y a las quatro de la tarde paramos en la orilla del arroyo 
de S° Salvador, llamado por otro nombre al arroyo de la harina 
haviendo caminado unas diez leguas largas, con el rumbo vario: 10 
al principio como una legua corta al nomoroeste, y luego por 
causa de los zanjones y atascaderos fuimos variando como tres 
leguas al estnordeste, y nordeste culebreando hasta salir de los 
zanjones y tierra baja en donde estabamos, y coger tierra mas 



[76] 



March 



Diary of Pedro Font. 77 

then travelled some two leagues to the east-southeast, and the 1775 
examination of the canyon being considered sufificient, it was 
decided to proceed to the camp, where we arrived after crossing 
some high hills and travelling about two leagues almost due north. 

March 30. — "We set out from the Arroyo de San Mateo at a 
quarter past seven in the morning, and, after travelling about 
twelve leagues in various directions, halted at four in the after- 
noon on the other side of a river which we called the Rio de 
Guadalupe. This river empties into the [southern] extremity of 
the port, and a league above its mouth it is very deep, as it is 
backed up and has no current. On setting out we followed, for 
some six leagues, the road we had come, taking the corresponding 
directions, until we arrived at the Arroyo de San Francisco. 
Beside this stream is the redwood tree I spoke of yesterday; I 
measured its height with the graphometer which they lent me at 
the mission of San Carlos del Carmelo, and, according to my 
reckoning, found it to be some fifty yards high, more or less ; the 
trunk was five yards and a half in circumference at the base, 
and the soldiers said that there were still larger ones in the 
mountains. 

For the purpose of going to examine the large river called the 
Rio de San Francisco, which is said to flow into the port on the 
northern side, we here left the road by which we had come, and, 
changing our direction, followed the water, but keeping at a 
distance of about a league from it, and in some places even more, 
on account of the marshes. We proceeded for some three leagues 
to the east ; then, beginning to round the extremity of the port, 
we travelled about three leagues to the northeast, at the end 
winding from west to east to ford the river and reach camp. 

jMarch 31. — We set out from the Rio de Guadalupe at eight 
in the morning, and, at four in the afternoon, halted on the bank 
of the Arroyo de San Salvador — otherwise called the Arroj'o de 
la Harina — having travelled some ten long leagues with varying 
directions: at first, about one short league to the north-northwest, 
and then, on account of the sloughs and marshes, we kept on for 
about three leagues, changing from east-northeast to northeast, 
winding about until we got clear of the sloughs and low ground 
where we were, and gained higher ground along the foot of the 

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78 Academy of Pacific Coast History. 

jornadas alta por el pie de las lomas que siguen hasta la bahia y boca del Leguas 
puerto dulce : luego caminamos muy apartados del agua unas 
dos leguas con rumbo al nornoroeste, y otras dos al noroeste. Los 
yndios que por aqui vimos son totalmente distinetos de los pas- 
sados en el lenguage, algo barbados mansos y muy pobres, pero 
en el color lo mismo que todos los demas. 
99 Dia 1. de Abril. Salimos del Arroyo de la harina a las 
siete de la manana y a las quatro y media de la tarde paramos en 
un arroyito de muy poca agua cerca la bahia, y como a una legua 
antes de llegar a la boca del puerto dulce, haviendo caminado 
Unas catorze leguas con el rumbo como nueve al oestnoroeste : 14 
luego unas tres al noroeste y al no noroeste quarta al oeste 
<subiendo y baxando por lomas que desde aqui empiezan ci for- 
mar la Bahia; y lo restante al noroeste y nornoroeste y algo al 
norte culebreando todo esse tramo por las lomas dichas. Desde 
&c. > Desde el parage se oia algo el ruido del mar, como que en la 
bahia rebientan algo las olas en la playa aunque no cosa mayor. 
Desde una loma alta antes de llegar al parage estuvimos mirando 
la bahia, que desde alii se descubre lo mas de ella, y vi que esta 
rodeada de lomas y serrania por todas partes, excepto una abra 
grande que cae como al oeste quarta al noroeste, en donde por un 
buen trecho corre una lengua de tierra baxa detras de la qual 6 
mas alia, se divisaba blanquear como agua y se estendia hasta 
otra serrania que a lo ultimo y muy lexos se veia azulear. Yo 
discurri si tal vez por aquella parte tendria comunicacion la 
bahia con el puerto de bodega que por las corrientes que experi- 
mento en el el S"" Cap° D'* Juan de la Quadra quando estuvo alii 
no pudo distinguir si era mar 6 rio, y dicho puerto no cae muy 
lexos de la bahia por esse rumbo segun entiendo ; pero esto no es 
mas que conjetura. 
100 Dia 2. Salimos del Arroyito a las siete de la manana, y pas- 

samos por una rancheria a la qual nos convidaron que fuessemos 
unos diez yndios que vinieron al real muy de manana cantando, 
y nos recibieron los Yndios de la rancheria, que regule de unas 



[78] 



Diary of Pedro Font. 79 

hills which extend to the bay and the mouth of the Puerto Dulee. 1776 
We then travelled, at a long distance from the water, for about ^^^[^ 
two leagues to the north-northwest, and two more to the north- 
west. 

The Indians that we saw hereabouts are, in language, entirely 
distinct from those we have passed ; they have some beard ; are 
docile and very poor; but in color they are the same as all the 
rest. 

April 1. — We set out from the Arroyo de la Harina at seven j.„.j; 
in the morning, and, at half-past four in the afternoon, halted at 
a small stream which had very little water, near the bay and 
about a league before you come to the Boca del Puerto Dulce. 
We liad travelled some fourteen leagues : about nine to the west- 
northwest; then about three northwest and north by west, up 
and down along hills which from here begin to form the bay; 
and the remainder, northwest, north-northwest, and a little north, 
winding, all this stretch, along the hills mentioned. From the 
camping-place, the sound of the sea could be faintly heard, for 
in the bay the waves break on the shore, though with no great 
force. 

Just before arriving at the camp, we looked out on the bay 
from a high hill, as from there most of it is visible, and I saw 
that it is surrounded on all sides by hills and mountains, except 
for a great opening which lies about west by north, in which 
direction a low tongue of land extends for a long stretch. Behind 
this, or farther off, we saw what looked like water extending to 
another range, which at last became blue in the remote distance. 
I wondered if in that direction the bay might not perhaps com- 
municate with the Puerto de Bodega, for Captain Don Juan de 
la [Bodega y] Quadra could not tell, from the currents that he 
observed when he was there, whether it was sea or river. The 
Puerto de Bodega, as I understand, is not far distant from the 
bay in that direction — but this is only conjecture. 

April 2. — We set out from the small stream at seven in the 
morning and passed through a village where we were invited to 
go by some ten Indians who very early in the morning came to 
the camp singing. The Indians of the village, whom I estimated 



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80 Academy of Pacific Coast History. 

quatrocientas almas eon singulares demonstraeiones de alegria 
cantando y baylando. Caminamos como una legua larga al norte 
y nordeste y a las nueve llegamos a la orilla del agua y muy cerca 
de la boea del puerto dulce para dentro senalado en el mapa con 
la letra I. tenido hasta ahora por rio grande, que no lo es segim 
los experimentos que hizimos y razones que dire. Aqui determino 
el S'' Comandante detenernos hasta despues de medio dia para 
poder observar la altura de este parage. Desde que llegamos a 
la orilla del agua entramos en duda de que fuesse rio porque no 
le notamos corriente ni tenia el agua mas movimiento que el que 
observamos en la boca del puerto de S° Francisco en donde le 
notamos un movimiento muy suave y dissimulado eausado sin 
duda de la marea. A mas de esto no notamos en la margen seiial 
alguna de creciente, ni menos basura 6 palizada que era natural 
traxesse en sus crecientes si fuesse rio, y mas rio tan caudaloso. 
Y aunque se quisiesse decir que el no traer basura es porque su 
origen no sera de muy lexos, y que passa por tierras limpias de 
donde no puede sacar palizadas y otras cosas; a lo menos se 
deberia conceder que havia de tener crecientes, y si las tuviera 
dexaria seilales de ellas en sus margenes : pero estas se ven sin 
senal alguna : y sus playas en algunas partes donde las tiene son 
como las que vimos en el puerto. Es pues este puerto dulce un 
golfo de agua dulce encerrada en un caxon de lomas mediana- 
mente altas por un lado y otro, que corre quasi al este por espacio 
de Unas seys leguas y despues se ensancha muchissimo en unos 
immensos llanos, de los quales hablare maiiana y passado maiiana. 
Sus margenes son muy acantiladas en partes, y en partes forma 
una corta playa en la qual cerca la boca havia grandes rimeros 
de almeja de agua dulce. Probe el agua.y la encontre salada 
aunque no tanto como la del mar afuera. Vimos alii unas lanchas 
de tule muy bien hechas, y en medio del agua estavan unos 
indios en una pescando, que en todo este golfo del puerto dulce 
logran los yndios gran pesca de excelentes pescados, y entre ellos 
el salmon riquissimo y en abundancia. Vi que pescaban con 
redes y que atrancaban la lancha con unos palos delgados y muy 



[80] 



Diary of Pedro Font. 81 

at about four hundred souls, received us with marked demonstra- 
tions of pleasure, singing and dancing. 

We travelled about one long league to the north and northeast, 
and, at nine o'clock, arrived at the water's edge very near the 
mouth of the Puerto Dulce, on the inside — marked on the map 
with the letter I. Hitherto this port has been held to be a large 
river, but [that] it is not [is evident] from the tests that we made 
and for the reasons which I shall give. The commander decided 
to remain here until afternoon, in order to observe the latitude. 

As soon as we had reached the water's edge we began to doubt 
whether it was a river, for we did not notice any current, and the 
water had no more movement than what we observed at the mouth 
of the port of San Francisco, where we noted a very quiet and 
unapparent motion, due, no doubt, to the tide. Furthermore, we 
noticed on the shore no indication whatever of floods, not even 
driftwood or logs which it would naturally bring down in its 
floods if it was a river, especially a river so great. And if it 
be said that it does not bring down driftwood because its source 
is not very distant, and that it runs through open country where 
it cannot carry awaj^ logs or other things, at least it must be 
conceded that it must have floods, and, if it had them, it would 
leave signs of them along its banks ; on these, however, there are 
no indications whatever to be seen, and its shores, where it has 
them, are like those we saw in the port. So then, this Puerto 
Dulce is a fresh-water gulf, enclosed in a basin of fairly high 
hills on both sides ; it runs almost due east for a distance of about 
six leagues, and afterwards widens out very greatly in some im- 
mense plains of which I shall speak tomorrow and the day after. 
The banks are in some places very steep, and in others form a 
short beach, on which, in the vicinity of the mouth, there were 
great mounds of fresh-water mussels. I tasted the water and 
found it salty, although not so much so as that of the open sea. 

We saw there some very well made rafts of tule, and out in 
the water there were some Indians on one fishing, for in all this 
gulf of the Puerto Dulce the Indians get a great catch of excellent 
fish — among others, excellent salmon in abundance. I saw that 
they were fishing with nets, and that they held the raft in place 
by means of very long, thin poles. Their method of doing this 

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82 Academy of Pacific Coast History. 

largos : pero en el modo de atranearla me confirme en la sospecha Leguas 
6 juieio que ya me havia hecho de que la agua no tenia corriente 
para la bahia, pues repare que atraneaban la lancha contra la 
parte de arriba y mirando para la parte opuesta a la boea, lo que 
parece havia de ser al contrario si el agua corriesse para aba jo. 
Visto que con dichos palos atraneaban la lancha es natural que 
llegassen al fondo, por lo qual medi uno de dichos palos y halle 
que tenia onze varas y media de largo ; con que quitando un buen 
pedazo que queda fuera del agua de la lancha para arriba del 
qual estan asidos los yndios Pescadores regule por esta congetura 
que tendria el agua unas nueve 6 diez varas de fondo, y sus aguas 
estan muy quietas y sossegadas. Desde un altito imediato al 
agua y distante de la boca como un quarto de legua para arriba 
observe lo ancho de la boca, y por la observacion que hize calcule 
que tendra poco menos de un quarto de legua de ancho. En la 
Bahia y enfrente de la boca hay una isla que tendra de largo 
algo mas de una legua de este a oeste, y como un quarto de legua 
de ancho, y esta cerca la dicha boca no de medio a medio sino 
declinada a la banda del norte. El caxon del agua corre para el 
este no recto sino formando recodos y calas, y su anchor en sub- 
stancia es el mismo que el de la boca hasta unas tres leguas para 
arriba, que despues ya empieza a abrirse mas. En este mismo 
parage observe su altura y lo halle en 38? 5: %. Y assi digo. En 
la Boea del puerto dulce, dia 2. de Abril de 1776 : Altura meri- 
diana del bordo inferior del sol: 57? Despues de medio dia sali- 
mos de la Boca del puerto dulce y a las cinco de la tarde paramos 
en la orilla del arroyo, que en la expedicion del S'" Cap*^ D"^ 
Pedro Fages llamaron el Arroyo de Santa Angela de Pulgino, 
haviendo caminado por todo unas siete leguas largas. El rumbo 7 
de las seys de esta tarde fue dos leguas al este, por lo alto de las 
lomas pegadas al agua^ y una al estsudeste por una cafiada arriba 
por la qual bolvimos a salir a lo alto de las lomas imediatas al 
agua. Desde esse alto vimos que el agua aqui hace un recodo de 
este lado y se enc/iancha como otro tanto que en la boca y que 
en la margen del otro lado en derechura de este parage sobresale 
un poco una punta de tierra, y cerca de ella tiene un penasco 6 



[82] 



Diary of Pedro Font. 83 

confirmed me in the belief or opinion which I had already 1776 
fonned, that the water had no current toward the bay, for I "^^ 
noticed that they put the poles on the upstream side, facing the 
side opposite the mouth — seemingly contrariwise to what would 
have been done if the water were running downstream. Seeing 
that the raft was held in place by these poles, it is natural to 
suppose that they reached bottom, so I measured one of them, 
and found that it was eleven and a half yards long. Now allow- 
ing for a considerable piece that remains out of the water above 
the raft, and which the Indian fishermen hold on to, I estimated, 
on this supposition, that the water must be about nine or ten 
yards deep, and it is very quiet and calm. 

From a small eminence close to the water, and about a quar- 
ter of a league above the mouth, I observed the width of the 
entrance, and from the observation I calculated it to be a little 
less than a quarter of a league. In the bay, and in front of the 
mouth [of the Puerto Dulce] , there is an island which lies east 
and west, and must be rather more than a league long, by about 
a quarter of a league wide; it is near the mouth, not quite in 
the middle of it, but tending a little to the north. The basin 
runs to the east — not straight, but with bends and turns; its 
width is practically the same as that of the entrance for about 
three leagues up, afterwards it begins to widen out. At this 
place I observed the latitude and found it to be 38° 51/2'; so I 
say : At the Boca del Puerto Dulce, April 2, 1776, meridian alti- 
tude of the lower limb of the sun, 57°. 

After midday we set out from the Boca del Puerto Dulce, 
and, at five in the afternoon, halted on the bank of the stream 
which on the expedition of Captain Don Pedro Fages was named 
the Arroyo de Santa Angela de Fulgino. We had travelled in 
all about seven long leagues. The directions of the six leagues 
[covered during] the afternoon were: two to the east, along the 
crest of the hills which are close to the water; and one to the 
east-southeast, going upstream through a canyon by which we 
came out again on the crest of the hills near the water. 

From the height we saw that on this bank the water here 
makes a turn, and is about as wide again as at the mouth, and that 
on the other bank, directly opposite, a point of land projects a 

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84 Academy of Pacific Coast History. 

jornadas faralloD dentro del agua. Mirando para el nordeste vimos un im- Leguas 
menso llano sin arboleda alguna para donde se extiende mucho el 
agna formando en el varias isletas <de tierra baxa y al fin (C-c.> 
fin del otro lado del llano tan extendido, y como a distancia de 
Tinas quarenta leguas divisamos una gran sierra nevada euyo 
rumbo me parecio correr de sursudeste a nornoroeste. Baxamos 
de lo alto de las loraas, y haviendo eaminado como media legua al 
nordeste, eaminamos unas tres leguas al estsudeste hasta parar 
en el arroyo. Acudieron al real muchos yndios que aunque man- 
sos al parecer <estuvieron algo impertinentes y> se acreditaron 
algo de ladrones en especial en orden a ropa a la qual se incli- 
naban y tiraban mucho manifestandose deseosos de adquirirla y 
posseerla. El Arroyo de Santa Angela de fulgino esta en un 
llano de bastante extension, y bien poblado de robles, y otros 
arboles, y no seria mal parage para poblacion si el arroyo fuesse 
permanente que parece no lo es pues lo hallamos sin corriente y 
solo con unos charquitos de poca agua y no muy buena. Este 
parage dista de la ribera del puerto dulce algo mas de una legua. 
Dia 3. Salimos del Arroyo de Santa Angela de fulgino a 
las siete y quarto de la maiiana y a las quatro y tres quartos de 
la tarde paramos en la orilla del agua dulce en un parage de una 
rancheria despoblada, haviendo eaminado unas diez leguas largas lo 
eon el rumbo que ire diciendo. Atravessamos el llano, en donde 
haviamos parado, y eaminamos por el unas tres leguas con rumbo 
al estnordeste, y luego entramos en una caiiada, y haviendo 
eaminado por ella como una legua al nordeste llegamos a lo alto 
de la loma <seiialada en el mapa con la letra a. fin y termino de 
la expedicion y descubrimiento que hizo el S'' Capitan D^ Pedro 
Fages quando fue al reconocimiento del Puerto de S*^ Francisco 
acompaiiado del R'^^ P. P^or Ap*'" Fr. Juan Crespi, desde la qual 
vio dicho S"" Capitan este pielago de agua> que yo le llamo puerto 
dulce por su quietud y porque desde mas atras ya se encuentra 
el agua dulce y buena. Desde dicha loma que distara del agua 
cosa de una legua, vieron su extension el Sr. Cap^ Fages y el 
P. Crespi y que se dividia en brazos, con los quales se forman 



[84] 



101 



Diary of Pedro Font. 85 

little, with a rock or farallon near it in the water. Looking to 
the northeast we saw an immense treeless plain into which the 
water spreads widely, forming several low i.slets; at the opposite 
end of this extensive plain, about forty leagues off, we saw a 
great snow-covered mountain range, which seemed to me to run 
from south-southeast to north-northwest. 

We descended from the crest of the hills, and, having gone 
about half a league to the northeast, we travelled some three 
leagues east-southeast, as far as the halting-place at the Arroyo 
[de Santa Angela de Fulgino]. Many Indians came to the camp 
and, although they seemed docile, were impertinent and proved 
themselves thievishly disposed, especially as regards clothing, for 
which they showed a weakness, manifesting a desire to acquire 
and possess it. 

The Arroyo de Santa Angela de Fulgino is in a plain of con- 
siderable extent, well wooded with oaks and other trees. It would 
not be a bad place for a settlement if the stream were permanent, 
which it does not appear to be, for we found that it had no cur- 
rent, in fact only a few little pools containing a small quantity 
of water and not very good at that. This camping-place is some- 
thing over a league from the shore of the Puerto Dulce. 

April 3. — We set out from the Arroyo de Santa Angela de 
Fulgino at a quarter past seven in the morning, and, at a quarter 
of five in the afternoon, halted on the shore of the fresh-water 
[inlet] at a deserted village, having marched some ten long 
leagues in the direction I shall describe. We crossed the plain 
in which we had halted, and travelled through it about three 
leagues to the east-northeast; then we entered a canyon, and, 
having travelled along it for about a league to the northeast, came 
to the top of the hill marked on the map with the letter a. This 
was the farthest point reached by the exploring expedition made 
by Captain Don Pedro Fages, when, accompanied by Father Juan 
Crespi, he w^ent to reconnoitre the port of San Francisco. At 
this point Captain [Fages] saw the body of water which I call 
Puerto Dulce on account of its stillness, and because for quite 
a distance back the water is fresh and good. From this hill, 
which is about a league from the shore, Captain Fages and 
Father Crespi saw the extent of the water and that it was 

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86 Academy of Pacific Coast History. 

Unas isletas de tierra baxa ; y como antes en el camino de atras 
ya harian probado el agua y la havian hallado dulce, sin duda 
se hicieron juicio que era algun rio muy grande y que aqui se 
dividia en tres brazos que de mas arriba se separaban formando 
dos islas y que poco mas aba jo de este parage al entrar en el 
caxon se bolvian a juntar, sin reparar en si tenia corriente 6 no, 
lo que ni era facil que reparassen desde dicha loma por estar 
retirada del agua. Yo vi el agua dividida no en tres brazos, sino 
en muchos formando varias isletas, y de estas conte hasta siete 
Unas algo grandes, y otras pequenas, todas de tierra baxa y largas 
y angostas : y el haver yo visto tantas islas, no haviendo visto 
mas que dos el S^ Cap° Fages y el P. Crespi consistiria sin duda 
en que ellos verian este ebarco de agua en marea alta y yo la vi 
en marea baxa, la qual en este puerto dulce crece y mengua bas- 
tante como dire maiiana. <Vieron la tierra liana por la qual se 
estiende esse caudal de agua, y son los llanos que ayer dixe y 
tambien verian del otro lado del llano la gran sierra nevada. Y 
finalmente vieron que el agua para ariha gira (f:c.> arriba gira 
como al nordeste y aun para el este hasta una sierra baxa que 
tiene arboleda la qual tapa al agua y no la dexa ver para mas 
alia, y la misma sierra vimos nosotros, a la qual &€. a la qual 
determino ir el S"" Comandante para ver mas de cerca el agua y 
su giro, y desengaiiarnos si era rio 6 no, pues aunque ya estava- 
mos quasi persuadidos a que no lo era todavia cabia alguna duda 
por estar apartados y no poder distinguir su movimiento, si acaso 
lo tuviesse. Baxamos pues de la loma y enderezamos el camino 
para dicha sierra, en la qual y detras de ella como al sudeste 
vimos bastante arboleda y que seguia para adelante. Luego que 
baxamos al llano, vimos cerca del agua, y en distancia como de 
una legua corta, una crecida manada de ciervos grandes, que en el 
nuevo mexico me parece llaman buros los quales son de unas siete 
quartas de alto, y tienen unas hastas como de dos varas de largo 
con varias ramas, y aunque se hizo la diligencia de coger alguno 
no se pudo lograr por su mucha velocidad en el correr y mas en 
esta ocasion, que se hallaban sin la cornamenta grande, que sin 



[86] 



Diary of Pedro Font. 87 

divided into two arms which form some low-lying islets. As, 
farther back on the road, they had tasted the water and found 
it to be fresh, undoubtedly they formed the opinion that it was 
a very large river, and that at this point it was divided into three 
arms which separated farther up, forming two islands, and 
united again, a little below this place, on entering the strait; 
but they did not observe whether it had any current — which 
indeed was not easy to do from the hill, as it was at a distance 
from the water. I saw that the water was divided, not into three 
arms, but into many, and that it formed numerous islets; of 
these I counted as many as seven, some quite large and others 
small — all low-lying, long and narrow. That I saw so many 
islets, while Captain Fages and Father Crespi saw only two, 
was due, no doubt, to the fact that they saw this expanse of 
water at high, and I at low tide — there being a considerable ebb 
and flow in the Puerto Dulce, as I shall describe tomorrow. They 
saw the level country through which this body of water ramifies, 
and which constitutes the plain I spoke of yesterday, and they 
must have seen the great Sierra Nevada on the other side of the 
plain. Lastly, they saw that farther up the water turns toward 
the northeast and even east, as far as a low range covered with 
forest which hides the water and prevents it from being seen 
farther on. This [low] range we ourselves saw, and to it the com- 
mander decided to go in order to get a close view of the water 
and the turn, and to make sure whether or not it was a river ; for, 
although we were almost convinced that it was not, there still 
remained a doubt, as we were at a distance and unable to dis- 
tinguish its motion, if indeed it had any. We therefore descended 
the hill and directed our course toward the [low] range, on and 
beyond which we saw a considerable forest which continued to- 
ward the southeast. 

On descending to the plain we saw, near the water and about 
a short league away, a big herd of large deer, being, I think, what 
they call huros in New Mexico. They are about seven spans high, 
and have antlers about two yards long with several branches. Al- 
though an effort was made to get one, it was impossible, because 
they were very swift, and the more so at this time as they had 
shed their great antlers, which undoubtedly they do at seasons 

[87] 



88 Academy of Pacific Coast History. 

duda a temporadas la mudan segun las muchas hastas que vimos 
por alii tiradas. Todo este terreno abunda mucho de dichos ciervos, 
y por los rastros que encontramos oy y manana, que son como 
los de res, no parece sino que por alii hay alguna crecidissima 
estancia de ganado. Seguimos por el llano, en derec[h]ura de 
la sierra emboscada seiialada en el mapa con la letra b., y haviendo 
caminado unas quatro leguas con rumbo al este quarta al nord- 
este, llegamos a una rancheria algo crecida, (cuyos Yndios, (que 
en el color y en todo son como los demas) nos recibieron de paz y 
aun con miedo,) la qual esta situada en el llano un poco antes 
de llegar a la sierra que ibamos buscando, y tan imediata al agua 
que de ella a los jacales no havria la distancia de doze passos. 
Aqui ya nos persuadimos que el que se llamaba rio, no es rio sino 
un gran pielago de agua dulce sin corriente que se estiende por 
essa llanura, a la qual llegaron a beber las bestias por su pie, y 
nosotros la probamos y la hallamos muy dulce y buena. <Ojo 
aha jo. Seiialada en el mapa con la letra c.> Seguimos adelante 
con animo de subir a lo alto de la sierrita emboscada que no es 
muy alta para desde alii descubrir mejor el terreno y el curso del 
agua ; pero apenas salimos de la rancheria quando se nos atravesso 
una cienega y tular que nos hizo mudar de rumbo ; por lo qual 
cogiendo al estsudeste caminamos por una cuchilla de una lomita 
baxa, y luego entramos en un llano algo grande con bastantes 
robles ; y haviendo caminado como una legua larga llegamos a una 
loma pelada y no muy alta. Subimos a lo alto de esta loma que 
domina todo el llano, para descubrir el terreno, 3- vimos desde alii 
una confusion de agua tulares algo de cerca la sierra bosque y 
tierra liana con una extension desmedida. Si mirabamos para el 
este veiamos del otro lado del llano y en distancia de unas 
treinta leguas una gran sierra nevada, y blanca desde la cumbre 
hasta la falda que atravessada corria como de sudeste a nornor- 
oeste, y segun el rumbo que le pude demarcar me hize juicio que 
tal vez tendria essa sierra por la parte del sur algun enlaze con la 
sierra nevada que se desprende de la sierra madre de California 
mas arriba del puerto de San Carlos y camina como al noroeste 
hasta la mission de S^ Gabriel y mas alia, pero no le pudimos 



[88] 



Diary op Pedro Font. 89 

judging from the many horns that we saw lying about. All this 
region abounds in these deer ; and the tracks, resembling those of 
cattle, that we found this day and the next, make it appear as if 
there was an immense herd of cattle thereabouts. 

We went on through the plain, making directly for the wooded 
range — marked on the map with the letter h — and, after having 
travelled about four leagues east by north, we came to a good- 
sized Indian village, the inhabitants of which (who are like the 
others in color and everything else) received us peaceably and 
even with trepidation. The village is situated in the plain a 
little before you come to the range we were heading for, and 
so close to the water that the huts were not more than twelve 
paces from it. Here we were finally convinced that this which 
was called a river, is not a river at all, but a great body of fresh 
water, without a current, which spreads over that level country; 
the animals came up to it of their own accord to drink, and we 
tasted the water ourselves and found it very fresh and good. 
[The place is] marked on the map with the letter c. 

We proceeded with the intention of going to the summit of 
the low wooded range, that from there we might the better view 
the country and the course of the water. However, we had 
scarcely left the village when a swamp and tule-patch obstructed 
our path and forced us to change our route ; so, swinging to the 
east-southeast, we travelled along the ridge of a low hill, and 
then came to a plain of considerable extent in which there were 
many oak-trees ; and having travelled about one long league, we 
came to a bare hill that was not very high. 

We climbed to the top of this hill, which dominates the entire 
plain, in order to observe the lay of the land, and from it saw 
a confusion of water, tule-patches, the mountains, nearby woods, 
and a vast extent of plain. Looking eastward, we saw on the 
other side of the plain and about thirty leagues distant a great 
snow-covered range, white from crest to foot. It lies about south- 
east and northwest, and from the direction I made out for it, 
I judged that it possibly might have some connection to the south- 
ward with the Sierra Nevada, which branches off from the Sierra 
Madre de California above the Puerto de San Carlos and runs 
northwestward as far as the mission of San Gabriel and beyond. 

[89] 



90 Academy of Pacific Coast History. 

descubrir el remate ni del un extreme ni del otro. Bolviamos 
para el oeste, y veiamos, las lomas que en el camino venimos 
dexando, por entre las quales se metia 6 entraba el agua recogida, 
y que del otro lado del agua se abria una lomeria baxa, cuyo 
extreme que se le descubria en distaneia de unas quinze leguas, 
caia eomo al noroeste, y que de alii para adelante no se descubria 
otra eosa sino llano. Mirabamos para el sur y veiamos una sierra 
alta y pelada por lo exterior que corria como de sudeste a nor- 
oeste, y esta es la serrania que desde las imediaciones de la Mission 
de S*^ Luis venimos dexando a la derecha en todo el camino de la 
ida hasta llegar a la boea del puerto dulce que alii remata, y en 
cuyas faldas estan los valles de S*^ Delfina, por el qual corre el 
rio de monterey, el de S^ Bernarnino, y otros, con el llano de los 
robles que va para la boca del puerto de San Francisco. Asseguro 
un soldado, y dixo que conocia un picacho que se descubria en el 
remate de lo que se veia de esta sierra para el sudeste, y que no 
estaba muy lexos de un parage que llaman buenavista al qual 
reconocieron los soldados quando fueron para los tulares que caen 
cerca la mission de S° Luis en busca de unos desertores, y que si 
tirassemos para alia iriamos a salir en las imediaciones de la 
mission de S° Luis 6 de San Antonio. Bolviamos a mirar para el 
norte, y entre la lomeria baxa del noroeste y la sierra nevada mira- 
bamos un immenso llano que parece seguia el mismo rumbo de la 
sierra nevada por aquel lado, pero por el otro se abria como para el 
oeste con tanta extension que cogia quasi el semicirculo orizontal, 
y este es el llano por donde se extiende este pielago de agua dulce 
no seguidamente sino en trechos, dexando grandes pedazos sin 
anegar, 6 con poca agua en los quales se forman aquellos grandes 
y verdes tulares que empiezan desde cerca la mission de San Luis y 
segun su rumbo y esta cuenta cuenta tendran de largo mas de cien 
leguas hasta aqui sin contar con lo que se extienden para arriba 
cuyo fin no les pudimos ver y de ancho tendran unas veinte y 
cinco 6 treynta leguas. Yo discurri que estos tulares corren hasta 
las imediaciones del puerto de Bodega, y que aquel campo verde 
que el S'" Capitan D^^ Juan de la Quadra vio desde su puerto seran 



[90] 



Diary of Pedro Font. 91 

However, we could not discern either end of the range. Turning 1776 
westward, we saw the hills — through which the accumulated ^ .^ 
water empties or disemboguas — which we had passed on the way, 
and [observed] that, on the other side of the water, they spread 
out into low hilly country, the end of which was visible at a dis- 
tance of about fifteen leagues, lying toward the northwest ; and 
further, that from there on there was nothing discernible but 
plains. Looking southward, we saw a high range, bare on the 
exposed face, which ran from southeast to northwest. This is 
the range which in coming we had on our right throughout the 
entire journey from the vicinity of the mission of San Luis until 
we reached the Boca del Puerto Dulee, where it terminates. In 
the slopes of this range lie the valleys of Santa Delfina, — through 
which flows the Rio de Monterey — San Bernardino, and others, 
as well as the Llano de los Robles, which stretches toward the 
mouth of the port of San Francisco. (A soldier stated that he 
recognized a peak which was visible at the southeastern extremity 
of what could be seen of this range, and that it was not very far 
from a place called Buenavista, to which the soldiers had re- 
connoitred when they had gone to the tule-swamps near the 
mission of San Luis in search of some deserters. He said that 
if we should go in that direction we would come out in the 
neighborhood of the mission of San Luis or of San Antonio.) 
Turning now to the northward, we saw, between the low hills to 
the northwest and the Sierra Nevada, an immense plain which, 
on the farther side, seemed to follow the same direction as the 
latter, but on the other side, opened out, toward the west, to such 
an extent that it included almost half the horizon. This is the 
plain through which the great body of fresh water extends — not 
indeed continuously, but in streaks, leaving great areas uncov- 
ered or with but little water. In these areas it is, that are formed 
those extensive green tule-beds which begin near the mission of 
San Luis and, according to the bearings and this reckoning, must 
be in length over a hundred leagues to this point, — without con- 
sidering their upper extension, the end of which we could not 
see — and in breadth some twenty-five or thirty leagues. I sur- 
mised that these tule-swamps extend to the vicinity of the Puerto 
de Bodega, and that the green fields which Captain Don Juan de 

[91] 



92 Academy op Pacific Coast History. 

tulares como estos que aqui vimos, 6 seran estos mismos continua- 
dos hasta alia. Visto esto determino el S"^ Comandante ir a parar 
a la orilla del agua, con animo de seguir algunas jornadas mas 
adelante, atravessar el llano y arrimarnos a la sierra nevada, para 
adelantar por alii este descubrimiento lo que se pudiesse : por 
lo qual baxando de la loma, caminamos como una legua por el 
tramos con un tular y atolladero que nos impidio el passo ; por lo 
llano, con rumbo al nordeste, pero antes de llegar al agua encon- 
qual variamos rumbo, y caminando como un quarto de legua al 
oeste llegamos a la orilla del agua y en un parage de una ran- 
cheria despoblada. Luego que paramos fuimos a ver el agua y 
probarla y la hallamos muy christalina fresca dulce y buena, a 
la qual llegaron a beber las bestias sin dificultad alguna, y vimos 
que estava con un movimiento suave causado del viento, y que 
azotaba la orilla 6 playa con unas blandas olas, pero no le reco- 
nocimos corriente ninguna. Y para probar si la tenia, cogio el 
S*" Comandante un palo mediano que remataba en una porrita, y 
lo tiro dentro del agua con la mayor fuerza que pudo, pero a poco 
rato vimos que en lugar de correr para aba jo, el agua con sus 
olitas lo bolvio a la orilla y advierto que segun vimos despues en 
esta ocasion estaba baxando la marea. En la playa no havia 
desechos de crecientes ni basura mas que algo de tule seco. Passo 
como una hora y bolvimos a ver el agua y reparamos que havia 
descubierto un buen pedazo de playa, y que el agua havia baxado 
como dos tercias segun los troncos descubiertos de unos arboles 
que havia en la orilla, y antes los haviamos visto cubiertos. De 
donde inferimos que el agua tenia su creciente y menguante como 
el mar, y que entonces iba baxando la marea : por lo qual quedo 
encargado el S^ Theniente con un criado, que en el discurso de la 
noche tuviesse cuydado de observar quando estuviesse mas baxa 
la marea y que midiesse todo lo que descubriesse de arenal 6 
playa, y despues se observasse hasta donde subia en estando la 



[92] 



Diary of Pedro Font. 93 

la [Bodega y] Quadra saw from his port must have been tule- 
swamps such as we saw here, or that these very swamps continue 
as far as that. 

In view of all this, the commander decided to go and camp 
beside the water with the intention of proceeding for a number of 
marches farther, crossing the plain and approaching the Sierra 
Nevada in order to push forward the present exploration as far 
as possible in that direction. Therefore, descending the hill, we 
travelled about a league across the plain toward the northwest; 
but before we reached the water we came upon a tule-swamp and 
marsh which stopped our progress. Consequently, we changed 
our route and, travelling about a quarter of a league westward, 
reached the water's edge at a place where there was an aban- 
doned Indian village. 

As soon as we halted, we went to look at the water and taste 
it, and we found it very limpid, cool, fresh, and good, and the 
animals went readily to it to drink. We saw that it had an easy 
motion caused by the wind, and that it lapped upon the shore or 
beach with gentle weaves, but Ave did not discover any current 
whatever in it. In order to prove whether or not it had a cur- 
rent, the commander took a good-sized stick having a knob on 
the end, and threw it with all his strength into the water; but 
in a little while we saw that, instead of floating downstream, it 
was washed upon the shore by the wavelets — I note also from 
what we saw afterwards that the tide was going down at the 
time. On the beach there was no driftwood left by the floods, 
nor any debris other than some dry reeds. About an hour after- 
wards, we returned to look at the water, and we observed that a 
good piece of the beach had been uncovered, and that the water 
had gone down about two feet, judging from the exposed trunks 
of some trees on the shore, which we had previously noticed were 
submerged. We inferred from this that the water ebbs and flows 
like the sea, and that the tide was then going out. On this ac- 
count, the lieutenant was directed to remain with a servant, in 
order that, during the night, he might observe carefully when 
the tide was lowest, and might measure all the beach or .shore 
that should be laid bare, and that he might afterwards observe 



[93] 



94 Academy op Pacific Coast History. 

marea alta : lo que assi se hizo esta noche y por la manana del dia 
siguiente come dire. Ojo. Esto que aqui sigue corresponde arriha. 
< [Margen izquierdo] Por conclusion de este dia quiero liacer 
aqui una reflexa sobre las noticias que participo a Mexico el R*^° 
P. Fr. Silvestre Velez de escalante adquiridas en su viage que 
hizo el aiio passado desde el nuevo Mexico a la Provincia del 
Moqui. Dice este Padre que llego a Oraybe, ultimo Pueblo del 
Moqui, y distante del Pueblo de Zuiii que es del nuevo Mexico, 
Unas cincuenta leguas al Poniente, y que alii un yndio Cosnina 
le informo y le dixo que al Poniente de Oraybe a seys dias de mal 
camino estaba la tierra que habitan los Cosninas, y que a nueve 
dias de camino desde Oraybe estaba una sierra muy alta que 
eorre de nordeste a sudoeste con inclinacion al poniente y se 
alarga mas de cien leguas, a cuya falda septentrional corre 
[margen derecho] al poniente el rio grande de los Misterios, in- 
transitable a los cosninas y sus colindantes, y que por consiguiente 
no saben los cosninas que gente hay del otro lado del rio, ni aun 
si la hay pues nunca passan ni han visto indicios de ella. Dice 
mas, que de este lado a orillas de la sierra acia el poniente a nueve 
dias de camino desde los cosninas esta una nacion que habla la 
misma lengua y se llama Tomascavas, y que a catorze dias de 
camino de estos estan otros que llaman Chirumas los quales son 
guerreros ladrones e inhumanos, pues comen carne humana de los 
que matan en las campaiias; y que de estos chirumas han sabido 
[pdgina siguiente, margen izquierdo] los cosninas haver esparioles 
por aquel rumbo aunque distantes &c. Y concluye diciendo que 
esto que le informo el cosnina era lo mismo que ya le havian dicho 
los moquinos. Primeramente hemos de suponer que el P. Fr. 
Silvestre se informaria del cosnina por senas como suelen ex- 
plicarse los Yndios, 6 por medio de algun interprete y tal vez 
malo como suelen ser regularmente si no es que el Padre sepa las 
lenguas de por alia. Si se valio de algun interprete 6 recurio a 
las seiias para entender al cosnina entonces facilmente pudo 
padecer alguna equivocacion en el informe pues muehissimas 
vezes sucede que quando uno piensa que se ha explicado bien con 
los Yndios por essos medios encuentra despues que no lo enten- 



[94] 



Diary of Pedro Font. 95 

how high the tide rose when it was full; this was done tonight 1776 
and on the following morning, as I shall mention. ^ .^ 

As a conclusion to this day's [entry] I desire to make a com- 
ment here upon the information which Father Silvestre Velez 
de Escalante sent to Mexico, and which he obtained on his jour- 
ney last year from New Mexico to the province of i\Ioqui. The 
father says that he reached Oraybe, the last town of the Moqui, 
some fifty leagues west of the town of Zufii, which is in New 
Mexico, and that there a Cosnina Indian informed him that the 
land inhabited by the Cosninas was six days of difficult travel 
west of Oraj'-be; and that nine days' journey from Oraybe there 
was a very high mountain range which extends, for over a hun- 
dred leagues, from northeast to southwest with some inclination 
to the west. [He said that] on its northern slope the Rio Grande 
de los Misterios flows to the westward; and that, as this river 
is impassable to the Cosninas and their neighbors, the Cosninas 
do not know what people there are on the other side of it, nor 
even if there are any such, for they never cross over, nor have 
they seen indications of any. He also says that nine days west 
of the Cosninas, on this side near the range, there is a nation 
that speaks the same language and is called Tomascavas ; and that 
fourteen days from these people there are others called Chirumas, 
who are warriors, thieves, and savages, for they eat those whom 
they kill in their wars ; and that the Cosninas have learned from 
these Chirumas that there were Spaniards in that direction, 
though distant, etc. He concludes by saying that this informa- 
tion which the Cosnina Indian gave him was in accordance with 
what the ]\Ioquis had already said. 

First, then, we are to suppose that Father Silvestre would 
obtain his information from the Cosnina by means of signs, in 
the manner that the Indians are accustomed to express them- 
selves, or by means of an interpreter — perhaps a poor one, as 
they usually are — unless the father should happen to know the 
language of those parts. If he availed himself of an interpreter 
or had recourse to signs in order to understand the Cosnina, then 
he may easily have been mistaken in his information, for very 
often it happens that when one thinks he has expressed himself 
clearly to the Indians by this means, he discovers afterwards 

[95] 



96 Academy of Pacific Coast History. 

dieron 6 que lo entendieron al reves. [Margen derecho] Esto 
supuesto dexando a parte las distancias, y rumbos que el Padre 
apunta respecto las naciones que nombra, en los quales encuentro 
no poca dificultad para eomponerlos atendiendo a la sierra alta 
que dice atravessarse de sudoeste a nordeste, en lo que encuentro 
mas dificultad es en el rio que llama de los misterios, no tanto por 
el nombre que para mi es muy nuevo, quanto por lo caudaloso 
que lo pinta como que es intransitable a los cosninas. Dice el 
Padre que este rio de los misterios corre al poniente y es regular 
que siendo tan caudaloso vaya a desaguar al mar y si esto fuesse 
assi es natural que nosotros lo huviessemos cor- [pdgina siguientfi. 
margen izquierdo] tado pues llegamos a la altura de 38. grados 
que es bastante para que viniesse a dar a las costas del mar que 
nosotros seguimos pues me pareee que essa altura y aun menos 
corresponde al curso del rio que el Padre dice, respecto al parage 
en donde recibio el inf orme : pero nosotros en todo el camino no 
hemos cortado mas rio que el rio Colorado, el qual no es intransi- 
table aun quando crece mucho como lo experimentamos, y aun es 
vadeable quando esta en su curso natural. Ni se puede decir que 
el rio de los misterios es el mismo rio Colorado, y que mas arriba 
muda el nombre, pues si este aun en la junta de los rios y mas 
abajo del puerto de la concepcion no es tan caudaloso que sea 
intransitable pues lo passan a nado los yumas assi hombres como 
mugeres es na- [margen derecho] tural que mas arriba sea menos 
caudaloso, y aunque lo sea tanto no es facil persuadirse a que los 
cosninas y sus colindantes scan de peor condicion que los Yumas 
que no se atrevan a vadear el rio por grande que sea, y mas 
haviendo nacido en sus orillas, pues vemos que los yndios que se 
crian en las orillas de algun rio grande como los Yaquis, y los 
yumas, y aun los de la costa del mar todos son grandes nadadores. 
De donde infiero que al P. Fr. Silvestre le dirian tal vez que del 
otro lado de la sierra havia mucha agua y como le dirian que era 
agua dulce sin hacer distincion de si corria 6 no el Padre se hizo 
juicio que era rio pues sus aguas no eran saladas y no le dixeron 
[pdgina siguiente, margen izquierdo] que por alii huviesse mar. 



[96] 



DiABY OF Pedro Font. 97 

that they did not understand him, or that they understood the 
opposite of what he meant. Disregarding, on this supposition, 
the distances and directions that the father sets doA^-n relative to 
the nations which he mentions, — and I find no little difficulty in 
reconciling them in respect to the high range which he says ex- 
tends from southwest to northeast — that in which I find the 
greatest difficulty is the river which he calls the Rio de los Mis- 
terios, not so much on account of the name, which is quite new 
to me, as of the great size he represents it to be, so that it is 
impassable to the Cosninas. The father says that this Rio de los 
Misterios flows westward, and it is natural to suppose that being 
so large it empties into the sea. If this were the case, it is also 
natural to suppose that we ourselves would have crossed it, since 
we went as far as 38° — far enough for it to have reached the 
seacoast, which we followed, for it seems to me that this latitude, 
or even less, fits the course of the river the father speaks of, 
estimating from the latitude where he obtained his information. 
But we have crossed no river on all the road except the Rio 
Colorado, which is not impassable even when much swollen — as 
we found it; and it is even fordable when in its usual course. 
Neither can it be said that the Rio de los Misterios is the Rio 
Colorado, and that the name changes farther up, for if the 
latter, even upon the junction of the two, and below the Puerto 
de la Concepcion, is not so large as to be impassable, — since the 
Yumas, both men and Avomen, swim across it — it is natural that 
farther up it would be smaller ; and even if it should be as large, 
it is not easy to persuade one's self that the Cosninas and their 
neighbors would be so much beneath the Yumas that they would 
not dare to cross the river, however great it may be, they having 
been reared on its banks. For we see that Indians, like the 
Yaquis and the Yumas, who grow up on the banks of some large 
river, and even those along the seacoast, are all great swimmers. 
Wherefore I infer that perhaps they told Father Silvestre that 
on the other side of the range there was a great expanse of water, 
and as they may have told him that the Avater was fresh, without 
making distinction as to whether or not it was running water, the 
father formed the opinion that it was a river, because its waters 
were not salty, and they did not tell him tliat the sea was there. 

[97] 



98 Academy of Pacific Coast History. 

En virtud de todo esto digo yo que tal vez el rio grande de los 
misterios que el Padre dice y le informaron sera algun charco de 
agua dulce muy grande que sigue el rumbo de los tulares que 
nosotros vimos, 6 que seran esos mismos tulares y agua que se 
estiende por los immensos llanos que tengo dicho la qual se inter- 
nara hasta el otro lado de la sierra nevada por alguna 6 algunas 
abras y cogera mucha extension de este a oeste assi como la tiene 
de norte a sur ; y siendo assi es muy f acil creer que sea intransi- 
table a los cosninas, pues es muy dificil, y aun quasi puedo decir 
impossible que se transite de un lado a otro, y por consiguiente 
no sabran los [mar gen derecho] cosninas si hay gente del otro 
lado y ni aun si la hay, como ni los del otro lado tampoco sabran 
si hay cosninas. De todo lo qual coneluyo diciendo que se me hace 
muy dificil que se pueda abrir camino recto desde el nuevo Mexico 
a Monterey como se ha pretendido pues a mas de la noticia que da 
el P. Fr. Silvestre del rio 6 charco de agua dulce que hay de por 
medio estan los tulares que se atraviessan a los quales ha de venir 
a dar el camino antes de llegar a la costa del mar y por recto que 
se busque a lo menos saldra a las immediaciones de la mission de 
S° Luis 6 mas abajo segun mi concepto salvo meliori judicio. 

Digo que aqui nos persuadimos que no es rio el que se llama ba 
rio, porque si lo fuesse es natural que tuviesse alguna creciente, 
y si la tuviesse no es possible que se mantuviesse esta rancheria 
tan pegada al agua y en tierras tan lianas, pues por poco que 
creciesse el rio se havia de extender e inundar todo el llano por 
donde venimos, y por consiguiente havia de destruir la rancheria 
y sus jacales. Y no se puede decir que esta rancheria estaba alii 
nuevamente establecida, cuyos yndios se retiraran a otra parte en 
creciendo el rio; porque a mas de que por las senas se conocio 
que no es rancheria nueva sino algo antigua, se le ban de conceder 
a lo menos algo mas de dos arios de antiguedad pues quando vino 
el S'' Cap" Fages, y reconocio esta agua desde la loma en donde 
se paro, despacho al sargento con unos soldados para que si- 
guiessen adelante el descubrimiento, y estos llegaron hasta la dieha 
rancheria y la hallaron en el mismo sitio que nosotros, con que a 
lo menos tiene dos aiios de establecida, y en dos aiios tenia tiempo 



[98] 



Diary of Pedro Font. 99 

On the strength of all this, I say that perhaps the great Rio 
de los ]\Iisterios of which the father speaks and of which they 
informed him, may be some very large fresh-water lake that fol- 
lows the course of the tule-swamps which we saw, or that it may 
be those very tule-swamps and the water which, spreading over 
the immense plains I have mentioned, may find its way to the 
other side of the Sierra Nevada through one or several openings, 
and may extend as far from east to west as it does from north 
to south. If this were the case, it is easy to believe that it would 
be impassable to the Cosninas, for it is very difficult, I may even 
say impossible, to cross; consequently the Cosninas could not 
even know whether there are people on the other side or not, 
just as those on the other side might not know of the Cosninas. 

From all the foregoing, I conclude by saying that it seems 
to me that it would be very difficult to open a road direct from 
New Mexico to Monterey, as has been contemplated, for aside 
from the information that Father Silvestre gives of the river or 
fresh-water lake which lies between, there are the intervening 
tule-swamps, which the road must strike before it reaches the sea- 
coast, and however straight a road is sought, it will still come 
out in the vicinity of the mission of San Luis, or farther down, 
according to my notion — salvo meliori jiidicio. 

I say that here we were convinced that what was called a 
river is not such, because if it were it would naturally have some 
rise, and if it did it is not possible that this village could remain 
so close to the water on such level ground, for however little the 
river might rise, it would overflow and inundate all the plain over 
which we came, and would consequently destroy the village and 
its huts. Neither can it be said that this village was newly estab- 
lished there, and that the inhabitants would retire to some other 
place when the river rose, because — aside from the fact that the 
signs indicated that it is not a new village, but one of some 
age — it must be conceded to be over two years old at least, for 
when Captain Fages came and observed this water from the hill 
where he stopped, he sent a sergeant with some soldiers to follow 
up the discovery, and these men came as far as this village, and 
found it in the same position that we did. So it must have been 
established at least two years, and in two years the river, if river 

[99] 



100 Academy op Pacific Coast History. 

Jomadas sobrado el rio para haversela llevado con sus crecientes si fuesse Leeuas 
rio. 
JQ2 Dia 4. Antes de media noche fue el theniente a reconocer el 
agua y la hallo tan retirada que por la medida que le tomo regu- 
lamos que havia descubierto unas diez y seys varas de playa la 
qual era aqui muy tendida. Antes de amanecer fue el criado y 
vio que el agua havia subido tanto que levanto el tule seco que 
tenia escupido en la orilla. Al salir el sol fuimos el S^ Coman- 
dante y yo, y vimos que ya empezaba a bajar la marea, y que eon 
el vientro noroeste que soplaba oy muy recio estava el agua eon 
alguna inquietud y blanqueando dentro las olitas como en el mar 
y las olas de la playa algo crecidas. Tome con un nivel el peso 
del agua, y con el saque que el agua desde lo que subio en marea 
alta, hasta lo que baxo respecto la playa que descubrio, en marea 
baxa, habia baxado unas tres varas : y advierto que aqui el agua 
estaba recogida y que a poco mas 6 menos tendria el mismo 
anchor que en la boca. De todo lo dicho, y con estos experi- 
mentos concluimos y acabamos de assegurarnos que este pielago 
de agua mas bien se debe llamar mar dulce que rio, pues no tiene 
crecientes ni corrientes como rio, y tiene como el mar las aguas 
elaras y azuleando, y el fluxo y refluxo, con olitas en la playa. Y 
si con todo se quiere decir que se puede llamar rio, supuesto que 
el agua es dulce, solo porque tiene algun movimiento con el fluxo 
y refluxo, entonces con la misma razon podremos llamar rio al 
mar. Aunque ya por todo lo dicho estavamos ciertos de que por 
aqui no havia ningun rio grande como se havia dicho, ni aun 
pequeiio, pues en todo el camino no encontramos mas que arroyos ; 
con todo el S'" Comandante se mantuvo en la resolucion que hizo 
ayer de seguir el giro del agua atravessar el llano y adelantar 
por la parte de la sierra nevada este descubrimiento por algunas 
jornadas : Por lo qual salimos del parage de la rancheria des- 
poblada a las siete y quarto de la manana, y a las cinco y medio 
de la tarde paramos en unas lomas del principio de la sierra que 
despues dire haviendo caminado unas quinze leguas largas con 15 
rumbo tan variado, que fue muy contra el primer intento como 
ire diciendo. Caminamos un poco con rumbo al este con animo 



[100] 



Diary op Pedro Font. 101 

it were, would have had ample time to carry the village away 1776 
on its floods. '"]^ 

April 4. — Before midnight the lieutenant went to examine the 
water, and found it so low that, from the measure he took of it, 
we estimated that it had laid bare some sixteen feet of the beach, 
which was very wide at this place. Before dawn the servant went 
down and saw that the Avater had risen so much that it lifted the 
dry reeds that were strewn upon the shore. At sunrise the com- 
mander and I went, and saw that the tide was beginning to 
ebb, and that with the northwest wind that was blowing very 
strongly today, the water was rough, the little waves iruside 
whitening as if in the sea, and the waves on the shore were larger. 
I took the level of the water, and ascertained that between high 
and low tide it had gone down some three yards, according to 
the beach which it had laid bare. I note that here the water was 
hemmed in, and that it had the same width, more or less, as at 
the mouth. From all that I have said, and from these investiga- 
tions, we decided finally, and ended by assuring ourselves, that 
this expanse of water ought rather to be called a fresh-water sea 
than a river, since it has no floods nor currents like a river, but 
has, like the sea, clear blue waters, ebb-tide and flood, and waves 
upon the beach. But if, nevertheless, one wishes to maintain that, 
since the water is fresh, it should be called a river merely because 
it has some movement, then we might with equal reason call the 
sea a river because it has ebb- and flood-tides. 

Although we were now certain, from what I have already said, 
that there was no large river here as has been asserted — nor even 
a small one, for we found nothing but streams in all our jour- 
ney — nevertheless the commander remained firm in the resolu- 
tion which he took yesterday to follow the turn of the water, 
cross the plain, and prosecute this exploration for some marches 
in the direction of the Sierra Nevada. We therefore .set out from 
the uninhabited village at a quarter past seven in the morning, 
and at half-past five in the afternoon, halted on some hills at the 
beginning of the range of which I shall speak later, having trav- 
elled some fifteen long leagues in a direction so varied that it 
was entirely opposite to our original intention, as I shall proceed 
to narrate. We went a short distance to the east with the inten- 

[101] 



102 Academy of Pacific Coast History. 

de seguir el agua 6 por su orilla 6 a una vista pero luego se nos 
atravessaron los tulares y atascaderos que nos hicieron mudar de 
rumbo, y nos apartaron del agua de modo que no la vimos mas 
sino de lexos y desde lo alto de la sierra. Cogimos rumbo al 
estsudeste y caminamos assi unas dos leguas dexando a la derecha 
un robledal que sigue como seys leguas por el pie de la sierra del 
sur ; y con inteneion de ver si los tulares nos dexavan passo libre 
cogimos al nordeste y caminamos de este modo como una legua 
mas ; pero luego los tulares nos impidieron seguir con esse rumbo : 
y empezamos a andar culebreando ya al sudeste y al estsudeste 
ya al sur ya al sur sudeste sin poder adelantar camino para la 
sierra nevada antes bien saliendonos para afuera. Veiamos 
algunas veredas de las muchas y muy trilladas que hacen los 
ciervos grandes por esse llano quando baxan al agua, y seguiamos 
por ellas; pero luego no[s] hallabamos atacados eon atolladeros 
que nos hacian rebolver[.] Encontramos una vez con una senda 
con rastro de hombre que nos parecio iva para una pequena 
rancheria que divisamos dentro del tular y aunque se hizo empeno 
en seguirla luego nos hallamos con un atascadero por donde no 
podian passar las bestias, y aun a pie se passaria con alguna 
dificultad. Assi andu vimos mas de tres leguas que se pueden 
regular como al sudeste y con algun trabajo metidos por los 
tulares que por un buen treclio estaban secos pisando tierra bofa 
podrida y llena de lamas secas, y con un polvo tan mordaz que se 
levantaba de las zenizas del tule quemado, que nos ardian fuerte- 
mente los ojos y apenas nos dexaba mirar[.] Con esta ocasion 
conocimos que el pielago de agua dulce que se estiende por essos 
tulares tiene su creciente y que quando crece coge mucho mas alia 
de la tierra que pisabamos, la qual estava llena de conchas de 
caracoles tortugas y lamas que cria el agua quando se estiende por 
aqui. Y que esta agua cresca no es dificil de creerlo, y aun es cosa 
natural que assi suceda, pues estando a la vista de la sierra 
nevada es cosa regular que de ella salgan varios rios y se pierdan 



[102] 



Diary op Pedro Font. 103 

tion of following the water either along the shore or at least keep- 1776 
ing it in sight, but we soon came upon the tule-swamps and ^ ^^^ 
marshes which obliged us to change our direction, and separated 
us from the water so much that we did not see it again, except at 
a distance, from the crest of the range. We turned east by south, 
and travelled so for about two leagues, leaving on the right an 
oak-forest which extends for some six leagues along the southern 
slope of the range. Then, with the intention of ascertaining 
whether the tule-swamps would permit us a clear passage, we 
struck off toward the northeast, and travelled about a league far- 
ther ; but the tule-swamps soon prevented us from following this 
course, and we began winding, now southeast and east-southeast, 
then south, and finally south-southeast, without being able to ad- 
vance toward the Sierra Nevada, but on the contrary getting 
farther away from it. We saw a number of the many well- 
beaten trails which the large deer make through that plain when 
they go down to the water; we followed these trails, but soon 
found ourselves beset by marshes which obliged us to retrace our 
steps. Once we found a path with the tracks of a man which 
seemed to be going toward a small village that we descried amidst 
the reeds, and although we made a determined effort to follow 
it we soon found ourselves in a swamp, through which the animals 
could not pass, and which could only be traversed on foot with 
considerable difficulty. So, for over three leagues, in a direc- 
tion which may be described as southeasterly, w^e struggled 
laboriously through the midst of the tule-patches, which were 
dry for some distance. We trod over decayed, spongy ground, 
covered with dried scum, with such an acrid dust arising from the 
ashes of burnt reeds that our eyes smarted intolerably and we 
could scarcely see. On this occasion we perceived that the body of 
fresh water which extends through these tule-swamps has its 
floods, and that when it overflows it covers the ground we were 
walking upon, which was full of the shells of snails and turtles, 
and the scum which collects on the water when it extends this far. 
It is not hard to believe that this water might overflow ; indeed it 
is natural to suppose that it would, as it is within sight of the 
Sierra Nevada; for it may be presumed that a number of rivers 
issue from the mountains and terminate and are lost in those 

[103] 



104 Academy op Pacific Coast History. 

y acaben en esos llanos, y con esto cresca este mar dulce (que por 
dulce se le puede conceder esta excepcion de regla o si no se podra 
llamar laguna) 6 e ninvierno con las lluvias y crecientes de los 
rios, 6 en verano derritiendose las nieves. Ya conoeiamos que era 
materia impossible atravessar el llano y arrimarnos a la sierra 
nevada ; pero con todo quiso el S"" Comandante proseguir un poco 
mas en el empeiio por si mas abajo encontrabamos alguna tierra 
mas alta que nos facilitasse el passo; y assi caminamos unas tres 
leguas mas con el rumbo un poco al sur, y lo mas quasi al este, y al 
estsudeste. Ya eran corao las dos de la tarde y el cabo que iva 
por delante se paro y preguntole el S^ Comandante: Que le 
parece a Vsted? hay esperanza de que podamos llegar a la 
Sierra ? Respondio el Cabo : Sefior, no se : lo que yo puedo 
decir es que en una ocasion sali por la punta de aquella sierra 
(es la que ayer desde la loma mirando para el sur vimos corer 
de sudeste a noroeste) y gaste dia y medio en descabezar un tular 
y vi que todavia seguia adelante y por el otro lado tambien, pero 
no vi mas porque desde alii me rebolvi. Con esto dixe yo : Por 
la cuenta ya esta visto que estos tulares son los mismos que hay 
cerca la mission de San Luis y que eontinuan hasta alia y para 
descabezarlos es preciso bajar hasta las imediaciones de aquella 
mission, lo qual es necessario para passar a la sierra nevada cuyo 
reconocimiento mejor se puede hacer empezando el viaje desde 
dicha mission de Sn Luis. Entonces el S'" Comandante viendo la 
dificultad tan grande que se ofrecia para acercarnos a la sierra 
nevada como pretendia determine revolvernos para monterey, por 
lo que mudando de rumbo nos encaminamos para la sierra; y 
haviendo caminado como una legua al sur llegamos a unas lomas, 
que por minadas con tuzeros las llamamos las lomas de las tuzas. 
otras lomas que son principio de la sierra que despues atravessa- 
Seguimos por ellas como dos leguas al sudoeste, y entramos en 
mos, y dire maiiana, y haviendo caminado por ellas unas dos 
leguas con rumbo sursudoeste paramos en un altito imediato a 
una Canada en donde se encontro un poco de agua. 



[104] 



Diary of Pedro Font. 105 

plains, and that thus the fresh-water sea (for so this exception 1776 
to the rule may be characterized, unless it is to be designated a ^ ^^j^ 
lake) would increase in winter with the rains and floods of the 
rivers, and in summer by the melting of the snows. We now 
knew that it was impossible to cross the plain and approach the 
Sierra Nevada, but the commander desired nevertheless to con- 
tinue some distance farther, in the determination to see whether 
a little farther down we might not find higher ground which 
would make our progress easier. So we travelled some three 
leagues farther in a southerly direction, and the remainder almost 
due east, and east-southeast. It was now about two o'clock in the 
afternoon and the corporal, who was going along in advance, 
stopped, and the commander asked him : ' ' How does it look to 
you ? Is there hope of our being able to get to the range ? " The 
corporal replied : "I do not know, sir ; what I can say is that on 
one occasion I set out along the point of that range, (it is the 
one running from southeast to northwest which we saw yester- 
day, looking south from the hill), and spent a day and a half 
going around a tule-swamp, and saw that it still went on here and 
[extended] in the other direction also; but I saw nothing more, 
for there I turned back." Upon this I said: "According to this 
reckoning, these tule-swamps are the same as those near the mis- 
sion of San Luis, to which place they extend, and to get around 
them, which must be done in order to get to the Sierra Nevada, it 
will be necessary to go down to the vicinity of that mission, from 
which place the reconnoissance of the range can be more easily 
begun." Then the commander, seeing the great difficulty which 
prevented our approaching the Sierra Nevada as he proposed, 
decided that we should return toward Monterey; so, changing 
our route, we started toward the range. Having travelled about 
one league southward, we came to some hills which we called the 
Lomas de las Tuzas, because they were burrowed by ground 
squirrels. We continued along these hills for about two leagues 
southwestward, and entered some other hills which are the be- 
ginning of the range we afterward crossed, as I will narrate to- 
morrow ; and having gone along them some two leagues to the 
south-southeast, we halted on a little- eminence close to a canyon 
in which a little water was found. 

[105] 



106 Academy of Pacific Coast History. 

jornadas Dia 5. Salimos de las lomas del principio de la sierra a las Leguas 
103 seys y tres quartos de la manana, y a las quatro y quarto de la 
tarde paramos en la Canada de S"^ Vicente poco antes de acabarse, 
haviendo caminado unas eatorze leguas de mal camino muy 14 
quebrado y con el rumbo al sur aunque variado como dire, 
Caminamos unas tres leguas al sudeste en busca de una caiiada 
que divisamos la qual se estrecho tanto que nos impidio seguir 
assi por lo qual fue precisso subir a lo alto de la sierra, y camina- 
mos como una legua al norte al este al sur y a todos rumbos 6 
sin rumbo hasta encumbrar. Aqui nos detuvimos un poco para 
buscar salida, y desde este alto que lo era mucho seiialado en el 
mapa con la letra d. vimos claramente los llanos agua y tulares 
por donde ayer venimos y que seguian para aba jo como para la 
mission de San Luis en una abra muy grande y liana que f orman 
la sierra que empezamos a atravessar por este lado y por el otro 
la sierra nevada que se miraba muy lexos y que tambien seguia 
para aba jo como para la mission de S° Gabriel; conque me con- 
firme en el juicio que ya me havia hecho y apunte ayer, y antes 
de ayer. Baxamos de lo alto de la sierra, y caminamos como dos 
leguas al sur y con bastantes guinadas al sudeste por lo quebrado 
de las lomas y cuestas, y llegamos a una Canada. Seguimos por 
ella como dos leguas con rumbo al sursudeste y al llegar a lo alto 
del puerto que hacia nos vimos con mucha serrania por delante 
muy quebrada, y todo lo andado y lo que se veia por todos lados 
muy poblado de robles pinos y bosque. Seguimos como una legua 
al sur y con muchas bueltas cuesta abajo, y luego fue abriendo 
mas la tierra de modo que encontramos con una caiiada algo 
ancha y bien larga, y haviendo caminado por ella unas quatro 
cinco leguas, con rumbo al sur y sursudoeste poco antes de 
acabarse paramos en un arroyo de muy poco agua. En el prin- 
cipio de esta caiiada, que los soldados le llamaron la Canada de 
San vicente < seiialado en el mapa con la letra e>, vimos unas 
sierras 6 lomas que a todos nos llevaron la atencion por su con- 
textura, pues estando las demas muy Uenas de bosque y arboles, 



[106] 



Diary of Pedro Font. 107 

April 5. — At a quarter to seven in the morning we set out 1776 
from the hills at the beginning of the range, and halted, at a "T^ 
quarter past four in the afternoon, near the end of the Canada 
de San Vicente, having travelled some fourteen leagues of quite 
rugged road in a varied southerly direction, which I shall de- 
scribe. We travelled some three leagues to the southeast, heading 
for a canyon that we saw, which became so narrow that we could 
proceed no farther along it ; we were therefore obliged to ascend 
to the crest of the great range, travelling about one league, — 
to the north, to the east, to the south, and in any and every direc- 
tion — until we arrived at the crest. Here we stopped a while to 
look for a way out, and from this height, which was great, (it 
is marked on the map with the letter d), we clearly saw the 
plains, the water, and the tule-swamps which we came through 
yesterday, and which extended as if down toward the mission 
of San Luis through a great level valley, enclosed on this side 
by the range which we were beginning to cross, and on the 
other side by the Sierra Nevada, which, seen far in the distance, 
also extended southward as though toward the mission of San 
Gabriel. So I was confirmed in the opinion I had already formed, 
and set down yesterday and the day before. We went down from 
the crest of the range and travelled about two leagues southward, 
with numerous deflections toward the southeast because of the 
brokenness of the hills and slopes, till we came to a little canyon. 
This we followed about two leagues to the south-southeast, when, 
upon arriving at the top of the pass which it formed, we saw a 
very great area of rugged mountain region in front of as, the 
road over which we had come, and all the territory visible about 
us, densely covered with oaks, pines, and other trees. AVe went 
on about a league southward with many downward turns ; soon 
the land opened up more, so that we came upon a long and fairly 
wide canyon. Having travelled along it four leagues south and 
south-southwest, we halted a short distance before reaching the 
end of it at a very small stream of water. At the beginning of 
this canyon, which the soldiers called the Canada de San Vicente, 
(marked on the map with the letter e), we saw some mountains 
or hills which attracted everyone's attention on account of their 
formation; for, though the other hills were very well forested, 

[107] 



108 Academy of Pacific Coast History. 

jornadas estas 110 tienen arboles y solo tienen im bosque chaparro y bien Leguas 
claro, con lo qual se le descubren en las cuchillas y a trechos unas 
cintas y pedazos de guija muy blanca, y dicha serrania por cuyo 
pie passa un arroyo, sin otros varios pequenos que hay en la 
Canada, es de color rojo : por lo qual dixeron todos que tenia 
grandes pintas de mineral y a mi me parecio muy seme j ante a 
las sierras de las minas de Guanajuato. Su situacion esta en el 
centro de esta serrania que veniamos atravessando que es muy 
quebrada. 
1Q4 Dia 6. Salimos de la cafiada de San Vicente a las seys y tres 

quartos de la maiiana y a las quatro de la tarde paramos en un 
altito imediato al arroyo del coyote que desde su nacimiento 
seguimos por todo el camino, haviendo caminado unas diez leguas lo 
de peor camino y mas quebrado que ayer, con rumbo principal 
al sur aunque con alguna variacion. Luego que salimos nos 
hallamos con sierra quebrada por todas partes y con una Canada 
angosta y muy profunda por delante : baxamos por ella, y luego 
encontramos un poco de agua que es principio del arroyo del 
coyote, y la seguimos con rumbo como tres leguas al sursudeste, 
unas dos al sursudoeste, otras dos al sursudeste culebreando para 
subir unas lomas, y baxar otra vez a la cailada, y unas tres final- 
mente al al sur y al sursudeste subiendo y baxando por la caHada 
y sus lomas muy quebradas. 

105 Dia 7. Salimos del Altito a las siete y quarto de la manana, 
y a las cinco y quarto de la tarde paramos en la orilla del rio de 
monterey, haviendo caminado unas quinze leguas, con rumbo las 15 
dos primeras al sur, baxando por unas lomas por las quales 
acabamos de salir de la sierra. Luego entramos en el valle de 
San Bernardino el qual atravessamos con rumbo al sursudoeste y 
sursudeste, y haviendo caminado unas tres leguas por el, al entrar 
en unas lomas baxas cerca el rio del paxaro cortamos nuestro 
camino de la ida por el qual seguimos con los rumbos eorrespon- 
dientes a los que llevamos al ir al puerto de S° Francisco. 

106 Dia 8. Salimos del rio de Monterey a las siete y quarto de 
la manana, y a las quatro de la tarde Uegamos a la mission de 



[108] 



Diary of Pedro Font. 109 

these have no trees, but only a very sparse scrub-brush, so that 1775 
on the ridge and at intervals there are to be seen strips and ' '""' 
patches of very white, coarse gravel. This range — at the foot 
of it flows a little stream, besides numerous other small ones 
which are in the canyon — is colored red. For this reason every- 
one said that it had fine indications of minerals, and to me it 
appeared quite like the mining regions of Guanajuato. It is 
situated in the center of the very broken mountain region through 
which we were passing. 

April 6. — "We set out from the Caiiada de San Vicente at a 
quarter to seven in the morning, and, at four in the afternoon, 
halted on a small eminence near the Arroyo del Coyote, which we 
followed from its source the entire way, having travelled some 
ten leagues of worse and more rugged road than yesterday, prin- 
cipally to the south, though with some variation. As soon as 
we set out we encountered rugged mountains everywhere, and in 
front of us a very narrow, deep canyon. We went down through 
it, soon coming upon a little water which is the beginning of 
the Arroyo del Coyote. This we followed about three leagues 
south-southeast, some two south-southwest, two more to the south- 
southeast, winding about to ascend some hills and descend again 
to the canyon, and, finally, some three leagues to the south and 
south-southeast, ascending and descending through the canyon 
and its very rugged hillsides. 

April 7. — We set out from the small eminence at a quarter 
past seven in the morning, and, at a quarter past five in the 
afternoon, halted on the bank of the Rio de j\Ionterey, having 
travelled about fifteen leagues, the first two having been toward 
the south along some hills, by which we finally descended from 
the range. Then we entered the valley of San Bernardino, 
through which we passed to the south-southwest and south- 
southeast. Having travelled about three leagues through it, upon 
entering some low hills near the Rio del Pajaro, we struck the 
course of our outward journey, and followed it in directions cor- 
responding to those we had taken in going to the port of San 
Francisco. 

April 8. — We set out from the Rio de JNIonterey at a quar- 
ter past seven in the morning, and arrived at four in the after- 

[109] 



110 Academy of Pacific Coast History. 

jornadas gn Carlos del Carmelo haviendo caminado cineo leguas con los Leguas 
rumbos de la ida : quatro hasta el presidio de Monterey en donde 5 
nos detuvimos a comer y una a la mission. 

Dia 9. Nos estuvimos en la mission descansando. 

Dia 10. Este dia huvo una gran varazon de sardina en la 
playa. 

Dia 11. Proseguimos en la mission sin novedad. 

Dia 12, Se determino irnos manana para Monterey y de alii 
rebolvernos para la sonora. <Y el S^ Comandante Anza despacho 
correo para el S"^ Capitan Ribera avisandole la determinacion de 
su regresso.> 

107 Dia 13. Salimos de la mission de 8"^ Carlos del carmelo a 
las nueve de la manana, y a las diez llegamos al presidio de Mon- 
terey haviendo caminado una legua. Aqui nos detuvimos para- 1 
que quedassen ordenadas las cosas de la expedicion, eneargandose 
de todo el S"" Theniente por ausencia del S"^ Capitan Ribera que 
estaba en S'^ Diego. Bolvi a suplicar que a lo menos se me 
permitiesse saber el numero de gente que en la expedicion havia 
venido y se quedaba en Monterey para la nueva poblaeion y 
fuerte del puerto de S'^ Francisco, pues aunque no era mas que 
una curiosidad mia y que verdaderamente no era necessario que 
yo lo supiesse deseaba saberlo siquiera por haver venido con todos ; 

y se me concedio que viesse la lista que no estaba completa por 
faltarle unos pocos con los presos que en la mission de S*^ Gabriel 
se quedaron, y por ella supe que quedaban en Monterey ciento 
noventa y tres almas. 

108 Dia 14. Vinieron de la mission de S° Carlos del carmelo el 
R. P. Presidente con otros Padres, a despedirse de nosotros y se 
bolvieron, y el P. Ministro de la Mission de S° Antonio se quedo 
en Monterey para passar en nuestra compania a aquella mission. 
Salimos del Presidio de IMonterey a las dos de la tarde y a las 
seys paramos a orillas del rio de Monterey en el parage llamado 
Buenavista, haviendo caminado unas seys leguas. Los rumbos en g 
esta buelta son los correspondientes a la ida, pues nos bolvimos 
por el mismo camino. 



[110] 



Diary of Pedro Font. Ill 

noon at the mission of San Carlos del Carmelo, having travelled 
five leagues in the same directions as upon our outward journey — 
four [of them] to the presidio of Monterey, where we stopped 
to eat, and one to the mission. 

April 9. — We stayed at the mission resting. 

April 10. — Today there was a great school of sardines 
stranded on the beach. 

April 11. — We continued at the mission without any occur- 
rence of note. 

April 12. — It was decided to set out for Monterey in the 
morning, and from there to return in the direction of Sonora. 
Commander Anza sent mail to Captain Rivera, notifying him of 
his decision to return. 

April 13. — We set out from the mission of San Carlos del 
Carmelo at nine in the morning, and, at ten, arrived at the pre- 
sidio of Monterey, having travelled one league. Here we stayed 
in order to arrange the affairs of the expedition, the lieutenant 
taking charge of everything on account of the absence of Captain 
Rivera, who was in San Diego. I requested that I might at least 
be permitted to know the number of people who had come on 
the expedition and had remained in Monterey for the new settle- 
ment and fort of the port of San Francisco ; for, although I was 
merely curious, and it was not really necessary for me to know, 
still I wanted to know just the same, because I had come with 
them all. So I was permitted to see the list, which was not com- 
plete, because there were a few missing, including the prisoners 
who had been left at the mission of San Gabriel ; from this list I 
learned that one hundred and ninety-three souls had remained 
at Monterey. 

April 14. — The reverend father-president of the mission of 
San Carlos del Carmelo came, with other priests, to take leave of 
us, and returned. The minister of the mission of San Antonio 
remained at ]\Ionterey in order to go to that mi.ssion in our com- 
pany. We set out from the presidio of ^Monterey at two in the 
afternoon, and, at six, halted on the banks of the Rio de Mon- 
terey, at the place called Buenavista, having travelled about six 
leagues. The directions of the return correspond to those of 
the outward journey, since we went back by the same road. 

[Ill] 



112 Academy of Pacific Coast History. 

jornadas Bia 15. Salimos del parage de Buenavista a las seys y quarto Leguas 

109 de la mafiana, y a las eineo y tres quartos de la tarde paramos 
en el parage que llaman la Canada de San Bernabe, haviendo 
caminado unas diez y ocho leguas cortas. Como a dos leguas de is 
haver salido del parage, nos eneontramos con los soldados que el 

S'" Comandante despacho de correo para el S"^ Capitan Ribera 
el dia 12. los quales venian de buelta y dixeron que havian 
hallado a dicho S'' Capitan Ribera en el camino y que ya venia 
cerca. Nos persuadimos que su venida era para verse con el S' 
capitan Ansa antes que se saliesse para afuera y para tratar con 
el el assumpto de la expedicion y con esto consentimos en que 
seria tal vez preciso bolvernos para IMonterey 6 a lo menos detener- 
nos alii, pero presto vimos que no nos causo ninguna detencion 
su venida. Pues a poco andar nos eneontramos con el S"^ Capitan 
Ribera, y haviendose saludado los dos S*"^^ Capitanes como de 
camino, sin detenerse en hablar cosa alguna siguio luego el S^ 
capitan Ribera su camino para monterey y nosotros proseguimos 
el nuestro para la sonora. 

110 Dia 16. Salimos de la Canada de San Bernabe a las seys y 
tres quartos de la maiiana y a las diez y quarto llegamos a la 
mission de S"^ Antonio haviendo caminado unas cinco leguas. 5 

111 Dia 17. Salimos de la mission de S° Antonio a las dos de la 
tarde, y a las sej^s y quarto paramos en la misma caiiada de los 
robles a orillas del rio despues de haverlo passado una vez 
haviendo caminado unas siete leguas. 7 

112 Dia 18. Salimos de Orillas del rio a las seys de la maiiana, 
y a las cinco y quarto de la tarde paramos en un pequeno aguaje, 
como tres leguas despues de haver passado el rio de monterey, 
haviendo caminado unas diez y seys leguas. 16 

113 Dia 19. Salimos del pequeiio aguage a las seys y quarto de la 
maiiana, y a las diez y media llegamos a la mission de San Luis 
Obispo haviendo caminado unas siete leguas. 7 

Dia 20. Nos detuvimos en esta mission. 

Dia 21. Por la tarde vinieron unos soldados diciendo como 



[112] 



Diary of Pedro Font. 113 

April 15. — ^We set out from Buenavista at a quarter past six 
in the morning, and, at a quarter to six in the afternoon, halted 
at a place called La Caiiada de San Bernabe, having travelled 
about eighteen short leagues. When we were about two leagues 
from our starting-point, we met the soldiers whom the commander 
had sent with letters for Captain Rivera on the 12th. They were 
coming back, and said that they had met Captain Rivera on the 
road, and that he was now approaching. We felt sure that his 
coming was for the purpose of seeing Captain Anza before the 
latter should go away, in order to consider with him matters con- 
cerning the expedition; so at this moment we presumed that it 
might perhaps be necessary for us to return to Monterey, or at 
least wait where we were. But we soon saw that his coming was 
no occasion of delay to us, for on going a little distance we met 
Captain Rivera, and, the two captains having given each other a 
passing salute without stopping to say a word. Captain Rivera 
at once resumed his journey to Monterey, and we ours to Sonora. 

April 16. — We set out from the Caiiada de San Bernabe at 
a quarter before seven in the morning, and, at a quarter past ten, 
arrived at the mission of San Antonio, having travelled about 
five leagues. 

April 17. — We set out from the mission of San Antonio at 
two o'clock in the afternoon, and, at a quarter past six, halted 
in the same glade of oak-trees [as on the outward journey], on 
the banks of the river, after crossing it once, and having travelled 
some seven leagues. 

April 18. — We set out from the banks of the river at six in 
the morning, and, at a quarter past five in the afternoon, halted 
at a small watering-place about three leagues beyond the place 
where we crossed the Rio de ]\Ionterey, having travelled about 
sixteen leagues. 

April 19. — We set out from the small watering-place at a 
quarter-past six in the morning, and, at half-past ten, arrived at 
the mission of San Luis Obispo, having travelled about seven 
leagues. 

April 20. — We remained at this mission. 

April 21. — In the afternoon some soldiers arrived, saying 
that Captain Rivera was coming from jMonterey, and that he had 

[113] 



114 Academy op Pacific Coast History. 

jornadas el S^ Capital! ribera venia de Monterey y que se havia quedado Leguas 
en el puertezuelo distante de la mission algo mas de una legua. 

Dia 22. Poco despues de medio dia llego a la mission el S'^ 
Capitan Ribera, pero se detuvo muy poco : y sin verse con el S'^ 
Capitan Anza en aquella hora se fue para San Gabriel. 

11^ Dia 23. Salimos de la mission de S'^ Luis obispo a las siete 
de la manana, y a las seys y media de la tarde paramos en la 
laguna graciosa, haviendo caminado unas diez y siete leguas. 17 

115 Dia 24. Salimos de la laguna graciosa a las seys y media de 
la manana, y a las quatro y tres quartos de la tarde paramos en 
un arroyo pequeno en la canal a orillas del mar cerca la rancheria 
del coxo haviendo caminado unas diez y seys leguas. 16 

iiQ Dia 25. Salimos de cerca la rancheria del coxo a a las seys 
de la manana, y a las cinco y media de la tarde paramos muy 
cerca la rancheria de Mescaltitan antes de llegar a ella haviendo 
caminado unas diez y ocho leguas. 18 

jjy Dia 26. Salimos de cerca la rancheria de Mescaltitan a las 
seys y quarto de la mafiana, y a las cinco de la tarde paramos en 
el rio de la Assumpta haviendo caminado unas diez y siete leguas. 17 
Oy despues de parar logramos ver un poco las islas de la canal 
que hasta ahora ni a la ida ni a la buelta las haviamos podido ver 
claramente sino muy en confuso y poco por causa de las neblinas 
que son en este mar muy continuas. 

118 Dia 27. Salimos del rio de la Assumpta a las seys y quarto 
de la manana, y a las cinco y media de la tarde paramos en el 
parage de la agua escondida, haviendo caminado unas diez y ocho is 
leguas. Oy salimos de la canal al principio de la Jornada. 

119 Dia 28. Salimos del agua escondida a las siete de la manana, 
y a las cinco de la tarde paramos en el rio de Porciuneula, ha- 
viendo caminado unas catorze leguas. 14 

120 Dia 29. Salimos del rio de Porciuneula a las seys y quarto 
de la manana, y a las ocho llegamos a la mission de San Gabriel, 
haviendo caminado dos leguas. En esta mission estava el S'^ 2 
Comandante ribera, pero ni salio a saludarnos quando llegamos, 



[114] 



April 



Diary of Pedro Font. 115 

stopped in the little pass something over a league from the 1776 
mission. 

April 22. — Shortly after midday Captain Rivera arrived at 
the mission, but he only stayed a very little while, and went 
away to San Gabriel the same hour without seeing Captain Anza. 

April 23. — We set out from the mission of San Luis Obispo 
at seven in the morning, and, at half-past six in the afternoon, 
halted at La Laguna Graeiosa, having travelled about seventeen 
leagues. 

April 24. — We set out from La Laguna Graeiosa at half- 
past six in the morning, and, at a quarter of five in the afternoon, 
halted at a small stream on the shore of the Canal [de Santa 
Barbara] near the Rancheria del Co jo, having travelled some 
sixteen leagues. 

April 25. — We set out from the vicinity of the Rancheria del 
Co jo at six in the morning, and, at half -past five in the after- 
noon, halted quite near the Rancheria de Mescaltitan just before 
reaching it, having marched about eighteen leagues. 

April 26. — We set out from near the Rancheria de Mescal- 
titan at a quarter-past six in the morning, and, at five o'clock in 
the afternoon, halted at the Rio de la Asumpta, having travelled 
some seventeen leagues. Today, after halting, we could discern 
the islands in the channel — until now, neither in coming nor re- 
turning had we been able to see them clearly for they were 
indistinct on account of the fogs which are almost continuous on 
this sea. 

April 27. — We set out from the Rio de la Asumpta at a 
quarter-past six in the morning, and, at half-past five in the after- 
noon, halted at La Laguna Escondida, having travelled some 
eighteen leagues. Today we left the channel at the beginning of 
the march. 

April 28. — We set out from La Agua Escondida at six in the 
morning, and halted at the Rio de Porciuncula at five in the 
afternoon, having travelled about fourteen leagues. 

April 29. — We set out from the Rio de Porciuncula at a quar- 
ter-past six in the morning, and. at eight, arrived at the mission 
of San Gabriel, having travelled two leagues. Commander Riv- 
era was at this mission, but he did not come out to greet us when 

[115] 



116 Academy of Pacific Coast History. 

jomadas j^j gg ^^q ^qj^ gj gr Comandante Anza en los dias que aqui nos ^eguas 
detuvimos. 

Dia 30. Nos detuvimos en esta mission y se hablaron los dos 
S"^ Comandantes por escrito tratando sus negocios. 

Dia 1. de Mayo. Siguieron los dos S^®^ Comandantes hablan- 
dose por escrito. 

121 Dia 2. Salimos de la mission de S'^ Gabriel a las quatro de 
la tarde y a las einco y media llegamos al Arroyo de S° Gabriel, 
haviendo caminado dos leguas. 2 

122 Dia 3. Salimos del arroyo de San Gabriel a las seys y media 
de la manana y a las cinco y tres quartos de la tarde paramos en 
un llano, eomo a una legua antes de llegar al rio de Santa Ana, 
haviendo caminado diez leguas. 11 

123 Dia 4. Salimos del llano a las siete de la manana y a las seys . 
y quarto de la tarde paramos en un puertezuelo que sale para el 
valle de San Joseph haviendo caminado nueve leguas, 9 

124 Dia 5. Salimos del portezuelo a las seys de la manana, y a 
las siete de la tarde paramos en la Canada de San Patricio, cerca 
del nacimiento de su arroyo, y poco antes del parage en donde 
paramos a la ida, haviendo caminado treze leguas. 13 

125 Dia 6. Salimos de la Canada de San Patricio a a las seys y 
tres quartos de la manana, y a las quatro de la tarde paramos al 
Pie del sauce del arroyo de Santa Catharina, haviendo caminado 
treze leguas. 13 

126 Dia 7. Salimos del Pie del sauce a las cinco de la manana, 
y a las siete y quarto de la tarde llegamos al parage de San 
Sebastian haviendo caminado catorze leguas. 14 

127 Dia 8. Se determine atravessar los llanos y medanos que se 
seguian lo mas recto que se pudiesse y ir a salir al pozo salobre 
del carrizal sin baxar a los pozos de santa rosa por ahorrar algo. 
Por lo qual salimos de San Sebastian a medio dia y a las diez y 
media de la noche paramos en medio del llano seco sin zacate ni 
agua, haviendo caminado catorze leguas, con el rumbo las tres 14 
primeras quasi al. al este, y las onze restantes al estsudeste y algo 
quasi al sudeste. 



[116] 



Diary of Pedro Font, 117 

we arrived, nor did he have any interview with Commander 
Anza during the time we stayed here. 

April 30. — We remained at this mission, and the two com- 
manders communicated with each other in writing concerning 
their affairs. 

May 1. — The two commanders continued their correspond- May 
ence. 

May 2. — We set out from the mission of San Gabriel at four 
in the afternoon, and arrived at the Arroyo de San Gabriel at 
five, having travelled two leagues. 

May 3. — ^We set out from the Arroyo de San Gabriel at half- 
past six in the morning, and, at a quarter to six in the afternoon, 
halted in a plain about a league on this side of the Rio de Santa 
Ana, having travelled ten leagues. 

j\Iay 4. — We set out from the plain at seven in the morning, 
and, at a quarter past six in the afternoon, halted in a small pass 
which leads into the valley of San Joseph, having travelled nine 
leagues. 

]\Iay 5. — We set out from the pass at six in the morning, and, 
having travelled thirteen leagues, halted, at seven in the after- 
noon, in the Canada de San Patricio near the source of its stream, 
a little short of the place where we halted on our outward journey. 

May 6. — We set out from the Canada de San Patricio at a 
quarter to seven in the morning, and, at four in the afternoon, 
halted at the Pie del Sauce, on the Arroyo de Santa Catarina, 
having travelled thirteen leagues. 

May 7. — We set out from the Pie del Sauce at five in the 
morning, and arrived at San Sebastian at a quarter-past seven 
in the afternoon, having travelled fourteen leagues. 

May 8. — It was decided to go as directly as possible across 
the plains and sand-dunes which we were following, and come out 
at the Pozo Salobre del Carrizal without going down to the Pozos 
de Santa Rosa, in order to save some distance. We therefore set 
out from San Sebastian at noon, and, at half-past ten at night, 
halted in the middle of the dry plain without grass or water, 
having travelled fourteen leagues, the first three of them almost 
due east, and the remaining eleven to the east-southeast and 
somewhat to the southeast. 

[117] 



130 



118 Academy of Pacific Coast History. 

jornadas Dia 9. Salimos del llano seco a las quatro y media de la Leguas 

128 maiiana y a las dieze y tres quartos de la noche llegamos a la 
Laguna de S*^ Olalla haviendo eaminado veinte leguas con el 20 
rumbo una legua al estsudeste, diez al sudeste eon algo al sur 
sudeste y algunas guinadas al sur y al este, y ultimamente eor- 
tando ya nuestro camino de la ida dos al estsudeste que son treze 
leguas hasta el pozo salobre del carrizal, al qual llegamos a a 

la una de la tarde, y por hallar el agua colorada y peor que a la 
ida y sin carrizo se determine passar adelante hasta dicha laguna. 

129 Dia 10. Salimos de la laguna de S*^ Olalla a las tres y tres 
quartos de la tarde, y a las siete y quarto paramos en las ran- 
eherias del Cojat haviendo eaminado unas einco leguas. 5 

Dia 11. Salimos de las Raneherias del Cojat a las quatro y 
tres quartos de la maiiana, y a las onze llegamos al puerto de la 
Concepcion en el rio Colorado, haviendo eaminado ocho leguas. 8 
Este puerto de la concepcion situado un poco mas abajo de la 
junta de los rios gila y Colorado es un parage de unos cerritos 
de mediana elevacion que forman un puerto pequeno por donde 
el rio Colorado (que va tan estendido por essos llanos como que 
en creeiendo es de leguas su extension) passa muy recogido, y en 
saliendo de el buelve a estenderse, por lo qual es este sitio de una 
vista muy alegre, y el mejor parage que he visto en este rio para 
poblacion porque esta imediato al rio y libre de sus inundaciones 
por mucho que cresca, aunque de tan eorta extension que en la 
mesita que forma algo desigual no caben mas que la Yglesia y 
Unas pocas casas. Aqui encontramos al P. Fr. Thomas Eixarch 
que se vino a vivir en este parage con el Capitan Palma, por ser 
mejor que aquel en donde lo dexamos a la ida, y dista de este 
puerto una legua rio arriba y tambien porque alii no se podia 
mantener en creeiendo el rio. Pensabamos hallar en este parage 
al P. Fr. Francisco Garces, pero no estaba aqui, ni el P. Fr. 
Thomas su compailero tuvo mas noticia de el desde que se fue 
para los Jalchedunes rio arriba. La ultima noticia que tuvimos 



[118] 



Diary op Pedro Font. 119 

May 9. — ^We set out from the dry plain at half-past four in 1775 
the morning, and arrived at the Laguna de Santa Olalla at a ^'~^ 
quarter to eleven at night, having travelled twenty leagues : one 
of them to the east-southeast, ten to the southeast and somewhat 
to the south-southeast with some deflections to the south and 
east; and, finally, two to the east-southeast, in which we crossed 
the line of our outward journey, which makes thirteen leagues 
to the Pozo Salobre del Carrizal, where we arrived at one in 
the afternoon. As we found the water here discolored and v^orse 
than when we came, and as there was no grass, we decided to 
go on to the Laguna de Santa Olalla. 

JNIay 10. — We set out from the Laguna de Santa Olalla at 
a quarter to four in the afternoon, and, at a quarter-past seven, 
halted in the Rancherias del Cojat, having travelled some five 
leagues. 

May 11. — We set out from the Rancherias del Cojat at a 
quarter to five in the morning, and, at eleven o'clock, arrived 
at the Puerto de la Concepcion on the Rio Colorado, having 
travelled eight leagues. This Puerto de la Concepcion, situated 
a little below the junction of the Gila and Colorado rivers, is a 
place in which there are some hills of moderate height that form 
a small pass where the Rio Colorado (which expands so widely 
in its flow through the plains that when it is in flood it is leagues 
across) passes through a very narrow channel, upon leaving 
which it again spreads out. For this reason the site has a very 
pleasant outlook, and is the best place that I have seen on this 
river for a settlement, for it is close to the river and yet free 
from its inundations, however much it may rise, though the space 
is so restricted that there is onty room for the church and a few 
houses on the somewhat rugged little table-land which forms it. 

Here we met Father Tomas Eixarch, who had come to live 
at this place with Captain Palma, because it was better than 
the one where we had left him on the outward journey, about 
a league up the river from this pass, and, further, because it was 
impossible to remain there when the river was high. We were 
expecting to find Father Francisco Garces at this place, but he 
was not there, nor did his companion. Father Tomas, have any 
news of him since he went up the river to the Jalchedunes. The 

[119] 



120 Academy of Pacific Coast History. 

del P. Garces fue el dia 15, de Abril por carta que el mismo Padre 
escribio al S'" Comandante Anza desde la mission de S'^ Gabriel 
en donde estuvo por semana santa a principios de Abril, a la qual 
salio eon el motivo de que haviendo passado mas arriba de los 
Jalehedunes, y encontrado con la nacion de los Jama j a estos lo 
reeibieron de paz, y se ofrecieron acompanarlo a otra nacion, pero 
que por estar entre medio una nacion enemiga suya era menester 
dar un gran rodeo para passar a la otra dicha : y tal fue el rodeo 
que fue a salir a la mission de S"^ Gabriel acompanado de dos 
Yndios Gentiles de la nacion Jamaja. En la carta decia que se 
bolvia a la nacion Jamaja porque le era preciso, y que si desde 
alii conocia que podia hallar algo de bueno passaria adelante pero 
si no que se bolveria al rio Colorado en donde nos aguardaria para 
regressarnos juntos. Llegamos a la INIission de S*^ Gabriel y alii 
nos dixeron los Padres que quando el P. Garces se fue hablando 
de su viage dixo que si encontraba yndios que lo quisiessen acom- 
panar, y no concebia muclia dificultad en su proyecto, su animo 
era internarse y descubrir camino hasta ir a salir al nuevo mexico. 
Llegamos al Puerto de la Concepcion y aqui adquirimos una 
noticia algo confusa de que el P. Garces estaba en los Jalehe- 
dunes; por lo qual el S'^ Comandante envio luego alia un yndio 
interprete con carta en que le avisaba nuestra venida y que 
dentro de tres dias proseguiamos nuestro viage, que era tiempo 
bastante para que el Padre viniesse si estaba alii : pero en los tres 
dias ni vino el P. Garces ni tampoco el mensagero, ni bemos 
podido adquirir de el mas noticia en el termino de tres meses 
que van corriendo. De donde infiero 6 bien que el P. Garces ha 
encontrado camino y facilidad para ir a salir al nuevo mexico 
como deseaba 6 bien que ha tenido algun gran atrasso en sus 
correrias apostolicas como que andaba ya algo enfermo si acaso no 
se ha muerto 6 los yndios no lo han matado. 

Dia 12. Se despacho al P. Garces el correo que ayer dixe ; y 
se empezaron a disponer las cosas para passar el rio que venia 
ya muy crecido pero con mucha serenidad en su curso. En los 
dias que aqui estuvimos observe que el rio crecia cada dia tres o 



[120] 



Diary of Pedro Font. 121 

latest news we had of Father Garces was on the 15th of April, 1775 
by a letter which the father himself wrote to the commander from '-^"^ — ' 
the mission of San Gabriel, where he was during Holy Week, in 
the early part of April. He had gone thither because, having 
been up beyond the Jalchedunes, he had found the nation of the 
Jama j a, who received him peaceably and offered to accompany 
him to another nation; but inasmuch as a nation unfriendly to 
them was between, it was necessary to go a long way around in 
order to get to this other nation. Such was the circuit he pro- 
posed to make from the mission of San Gabriel, accompanied by 
two Indians of the Jamaja nation. He said in his letter that 
he was returning to the Jamaja nation because it was his duty, 
and that if he there perceived that he could do any good by going 
on he would do so, but if not he would return to the Rio Colo- 
rado, where he would wait for us, that we might go back together. 
We arrived at the mission of San Gabriel, and there the fathers 
told us that when Father Garces went away, he said in speaking 
of his journey that if he found Indians who would accompany 
him — and he did not conceive of any great difficulty in his pro- 
ject — his intention was to penetrate into the interior and discover 
a way of getting into New Mexico. We arrived at the Puerto 
de la Concepcion, and here received a confused report that Father 
Garces was among the Jalchedunes. So the commander at once 
sent an Indian interpreter thither with a letter, notifying him 
that we had arrived and were to resume our journey in three 
days, which would give plenty of time for the father to come 
if he was there. But neither Father Garces nor the messenger 
came in the three days, nor have we been able to get any further 
news of him in the interval of these ensuing three months. 
Whence I infer either that Father Garces has found a way and 
means for getting to New Mexico as he desired, or that he has 
had some great reverse in his apostolic visitations; indeed, as 
he was ailing, he may have died, or the Indians may have killed 
him. 

May 12. — The letter was sent to Father Garces, as I said yes- 
terday, and we began to get ready to cross the river, which was 
now much swollen but flowed quietly in its course. During the 
time that we were here, I observed that the river rose three or 

[121] 



122 Academy op Pacific Coast History. 

quatro dedos, pero dissimuladamente como que su creciente 
proviene de las nieves que se derriten, y que traia bastante 
palizada, y sus aguas muy turbias. El Capitan Palma dixo que 
queria venir con nosotros para passar a jMexico a saludar al S'" 
Virrey, y deeirle que el y sus Yumas desseaban mucho y estarian 
muy contentos de que viniessen a sus tierras los espanoles y 
Padres para vivir juntos. Propusole el S'^ Comandante lo dila- 
tado del camino, y las detenciones que se ofrecerian, con las 
quales no podria bolver a su tierra en mucho tiempo. Y respondio 
Palma preguntando quantos anos podria tardar en bolver. Dixole 
el S"" Comandante que un alio quando mas. Entonces Palma 
dixo que estaba bueno: y perseverando en su pretension quedo 
admitido del S'" Comandante para llevarlo a Mexico en su 
compania pero que no havia de ir solo sino [con algunos] que 
voluntariamente lo quisiesen acompaiiar y entre muclios que se 
ofrecieron eligio palma dos compaiieros a los quales se agrego un 
cajuenehe joven, [y los tres] con dicho capitan Palma vinieron 
eon nosotros hasta el Presidio <de S"^ Miguel en donde los dexe y 
quedaron con el S'" Capitan Ansa.> 

Dia 13. Se empezaron a passar trastes al otro lado del rio 
con una balsa grande que hicieron y por la maiiana se passo una 
balsada y otra por la tarde con alguna gente: pero quedo la 
balsa tan maltratada que fue menester hacerla de nuevo. Hize 
[buenas] diligencias para medir con un cabo [lo] anclio del rio 
en la angostura que [forma] el puerto pero no lo pude lograr, y 
por fin regule [a] poco mas 6 menos que tendra el rio en este 
parage unas [cien] varas de ancho. Observe la altura de este 
Puerto y lo halle en 32? 47: Y assi digo : En el Puerto de la 
Concepcion del rio Colorado, dia 13. de Mayo de 1776 : Altura 
meridiana del bordo inferior del sol : 75? 38: 

Dia 14. Se tomo el expediente de que las yndias passassen a 
nado varias cosas en sus coritas y caxetes grandes mientras se 
hacia la balsa, lo que se execute y estuvieron las indias todo el 
dia haciendo sus viages de esse modo. Se acabo la balsa, y a medio 
dia se passo una balsada con alguna gente. Bolvieron a des- 
baratar la balsa y formaron dos que se acabaron como a las seys 



[122] 



Diary of Pedro Font. 123 

four inches every day, but very gradually, as though its rising 
were due to the melting of snows. It carried a great deal of 
brushwood, and the water was turbulent. Captain Palma said 
that he wanted to come with us in order that he might go to 
Mexico and pay his respects to the Viceroy, and tell him that he 
and his Yumas wanted very much to have the Spaniards and the 
fathers come and live among them. The commander told him 
of the length of the journey and the delays that would occur, 
owing to which he would not be able to return to his country for 
a long time. Palma replied by asking how many years it would 
be before he could return. The commander told him that it 
M'ould be a year or more. Then Palma said, "All right"; and, 
as he persevered in his proposal, he was received by the com- 
mander to be taken to INIexico with him. He was not to go alone, 
however, but with some who would volunteer to accompany him. 
From among the many who offered themselves, Palma chose two 
companions, to whom one young Cajuenche was added, and the 
three, with Captain Palma, accompanied us as far as the presidio 
of San Miguel, where I left them, and they remained with Cap- 
tain Anza. 

May 13. — [Our people] began to transfer the effects to the 
other side of the river on a large raft that they made; in the 
morning one raft-load was taken across, and in the afternoon 
another, Avith some of the people, but the raft suffered so much 
damage that it had to be rebuilt. I tried hard to measure with 
a rope the width of the river in the gorge, but I was not able 
to do so, and finally estimated that here the river must be one 
hundred yards wide, more or less. I observed the latitude of this 
pass, and found it to be 32° 47'; so I say: At the Puerto de la 
Concepcion, on the Rio Colorado, May 13th, 1776, meridian alti- 
tude of the lower limb of the sun, 75° 38'. 

May 14. — "Whilst the raft was being remade, we resorted to 
the expedient of having the Indian women swim across with a 
number of articles in trays and large flat bowls, so they spent 
the whole day in making trips in this fashion. The raft was 
finished, and at noon a raft-load with some people was taken 
across. The raft was broken up a second time, so thej^ made two, 
which were finished at about six in the evening, whereupon the 

[ 123 ] 



124 Academy of Pacific Coast History. 

jornadas de la tarde con lo qual determino el S'* Comandante que passasse- Leguas 
mos el rio. Se llenaron las balsas de trastes, y en una de ellas nos 
embarcamos el S'" Comandante el P. Fr. Thomas yo y otros que 
en todos eramos treze ; pero luego que entramos en el rio empezo 
la balsa a sobreaguarse por lo qual dos se saltaron a tierra con 
gran prissa y los onze que quedamos en ella nos vimos en peligro. 
Muchos yndios que estaban en la orilla y vieron lo que passaba 
se tiraron luego al agua y rodeandose de la balsa unos quarenta 
en doze minutos nos passaron al otro lado con mucha bulla y 
algazara y sin mas desgraeia que havernos mojado un poco. 

131 Dia 15. Se acabo de passar lo que faltaba y la poca gente 
que havia quedado en una balsa; con que en seys balsadas y 
los viages que hicieron las yndias se passo todo y vadeamos el 
rio. Nos despedimos de los Yumas con bastante ternura por su 
fidelidad, y afecto que nos manifestaron deseando saber quando 
bolveriamos ; y proseguimos nuestro camino con el P. Fr. Thomas 
sin aguardar ya al P. Garces agregandose a nosotros el capitan 
Palma y sus companeros. Salimos pues de la orilla del rio 
Colorado a las quatro y tres quartos de la tarde y a las nueve de la 7 
noche paramos en el puerto y orillas del Gila haviendo caminado 
siete leguas las dos primeras con el con el mismo rumbo que a la 
ida, cogiendo nuestro camino. El temperamento que experimente 
en el rio Colorado y rio Gila es, muy frio en invierno. y muy 
caliente en verano. 

132 Dia 16. Salimos del Puerto y orillas del Gila a las cinco y 
media de la manana, y a las seys y media de la tarde paramos en 

la laguna salobre haviendo caminado seys leguas. Se determino 6 
desde aqui dexar el camino de la ida, y atravessando por la 
papagueria ir a salir a la mission de Caborca, por ser camino mas 
derecho para ir a S'^ Miguel de Orcasitas. 

133 Dia 17. Salimos de la Laguna salobre a las quatro y quarto 
de la tarde, y a las onze y tres quartos de la noche paramos 
en un zacatal duro que llaman galleta, una legua despues de 
passado el arroyo lleno de arena que llaman los pozos de enmedio, 
haviendo caminado onze leguas, con rumbo tres al sur seys al ii 
sursudeste, y dos al sudeste. 



[124] 



Diary of Pedro Font. 125 

commander decided that we should cross the river. The rafts 
were loaded with goods, and the commander, Father Tomas, and 
I, with others — thirteen of us in all — embarked on one of them. 
But as soon as we got into the river the raft began to sink, so 
two people leaped ashore in great haste, and we eleven who were 
left found ourselves in danger. A number of Indians, who were 
on the bank and saw what was happening, threw themselves at 
once into the water, and, about forty of them surrounding the 
raft, took us to the other side in twelve minutes amid great noise 
and confusion, and with no other misfortune to us than a slight 
wetting. 

May 15. — We finished taking across on one raft what was 
left of the goods, and the few people who remained. In all, 
six raft-loads and what the Indian women carried took every- 
thing, and we were across. We bade farewell to the Yumas with 
much tenderness on account of the fidelity and affection which 
they showed us, desiring to know when we should return. We 
then pursued our way with Father Tomas, waiting no longer for 
Father Garces; Captain Palma and his companions joined us. 
We set out, then, from the Rio Colorado at a quarter to five in 
the afternoon, and, at nine in the evening, halted on the bank of 
the Gila in the pass, having travelled about seven leagues, the 
first two in the same direction as when we came, following the 
same road. The climate that I experienced on the Gila and 
Colorado rivers is very cold in winter and very warm in summer. 

May 16. — We set out from the banks and pass of the Rio 
Gila at half-past five in the morning, and, at half-past six in 
the afternoon, halted at the Laguna Salobre, having travelled 
six leagues. It was here decided to leave the road we had taken 
on our outward journey, and, by going through the Papagueria, 
to come out at the mission of Caborca, as this was the most direct 
road to San Miguel de Ilorcasitas. 

May 17. — We left the Laguna Salobre at a quarter past four 
in the afternoon and, at a quarter to twelve at night, halted in 
a field of tough grass, called galleta, one league beyond a gully, 
full of sand, named Los Pozos de en INIedio, having travelled 
eleven leagues : three of them to the south, six to the south-south- 
east, and two southeast. 

[123] 



126 Academy of Pacific Coast History. 

jorradas Dia 18. Salimos del zacatal duro a las cinco de la maiiana, Legnas 

134 y a la una y tres quartos de la noche paramos cerea el llano del 
tuzal antes del puerto bianco, haviendo caminado diez y oelio is 
leguas, eon rumbo muy variado tres al este quarta al nordeste 
dos al nordeste y una al estsudeste, y llegamos a las tinajas de la 
candelaria en donde nos detuvimos hasta la tarde. Luego tres al 
nordeste por mal pais seys al sudeste y tres al estsudeste. 

135 Dia 19. Salimos del llano del tuzal a las cinco de la manana, 
y a las onze y media llegamos al arroyo del carrizal, haviendo 
caminado diez leguas, con rumbo tres al estsudeste y las otras al lo 
sudeste quarta al sur. 

136 Dia 20. Salimos del arroyo del Carrizal a las cinco y tres 
quartos de la manana, y a las oclio y media de la noche paramos 

al pie de unos cerros, haviendo caminado treze leguas con rumbo 13 
seys al este, y tres al estsudeste, y llegamos a la mission destruida 
llamada San Marcelo de Sonoytac, en donde nos detuvimos hasta 
la tarde. Luego dos al sursudeste y dos al sudeste. 

137 Dia 21. Salimos del Pie de los cerros a las quatro y media 
de la manana, y a las onze de la noche paramos en un zacatal 
haviendo caminado diez y siete leguas, con rumbo dos al sur- 17 
sudeste dos al sursudoeste dos al sudoeste y dos al oestsudoeste y 
llegamos a Quitobac, pueblo de visita que fue de la mission de 
Sonoytac llamado S° Luis, en donde nos detuvimos hasta la tarde. 
Luego con una al estsudeste, dos al sudeste una al sursudeste una 

al sur tres al sudeste, y una al estsudeste. 

I3g Dia 22. Salimos del Zacatal a las cinco y tres quartos de la 

manana, y a las diez y media de la noche llegamos cerca el parage 
llamado San Yldefonso haviendo caminado quinze leguas, con 15 
rumbo, dos al estsudeste, cinco al sudeste, y una al sur, y llegamos 
a San Eduardo de la aribaycpia, que es un arroyo lleno de arena 
en donde nos detuvimos hasta la tarde. Luego tres al sursudeste, 
dos al sudeste, y dos al sursw^osudoeste. 

139 Dia 23. Salimos del parage de San Yldefonso a las cinco y 

media de la manana, y a las doze llegamos a la mission de Caborca 



[126] 



Diary of Pedro Font, 127 

May 18.— We started from the field of tough grass at five in 1776 
the morning, and, at a quarter before two at night, halted in the ""j^ 
Llano del Tuzal, before reaching the white pass, having travelled 
eighteen leagues in varying directions : three to the east by north ; 
two to the northeast; and one to the east-southeast, arriving at 
the watering-place of La Candelaria, where we stayed until after- 
noon ; afterwards, three to the northeast over rough country, six 
to the southeast, and three to the east-southeast. 

]\Iay 19. — We set out from the Llano del Tuzal at five in the 
morning, and, at half-past eleven, arrived at the Arroyo del 
Carrizal, having travelled ten leagues, three of them to the south- 
east, and the others southeast by south. 

May 20. — We set out from the Arroyo del Carrizal at a 
quarter to six in the morning, and, at half-past eight at night, 
halted at the foot of some hills, having travelled thirteen leagues : 
six of them to the east; and three to the east-southeast, coming 
to the destroyed mission called San Marcelo de Sonoitac, where 
we remained until afternoon; then, two leagues to the south- 
southeast and two southeast. 

May 21. — We set out from the foot of the hills at half -past 
four in the morning, and, at eleven at night, halted in a field of 
grass, having travelled seventeen leagues : two to the south-south- 
east ; two to the south-southwest ; two to the southwest ; and two 
to the west-southwest, and arrived at Quitobac, formerly a town 
of visitation of the mission of Sonoitac, called San Luis, where 
we stayed until afternoon; later, one league to the east-southeast, 
two to the southeast, one east-southeast, one south, three south- 
east, and one east-southeast. 

May 22. — We set out from the field of grass at a quarter to 
six in the morning, and arrived near the place called San Ilde- 
fonso at half-past ten at night, having travelled fifteen leagues 
in the following directions : two toward the east-southeast ; five 
to the southeast ; one to the south, arriving at San Eduardo de 
la Aribaycpia, which is a gully filled with sand, where we stayed 
until afternoon; then three leagues to the south-southeast, two 
southeast, and two south-southwest. 

May 23. — We set out from San Ildefonso at half-past five in 
the morning, and, at twelve, arrived at the mission of Caborca, 

[127] 



128 Academy of Pacific Coast History. 

jomadas habiendo caminado nueve leguas, con rumbo tres al sur, tres al Leguas 
sudeste, y tres al estsudeste. <Todo el camino de la Papagueria 9 
es muy torcido y eulebreado por la mucha escasses de pasto y mas 
de aguages que es precise ir a buscarlos motivo porque este 
camino es tan dificil de transitarse.> Se pidieron al presidio del 
Altar algunas bestias para alivio de las que ya venian cansadas del 
mal camino de la papagueria. 

Dia 24. Nos detuvimos en la Mission. Observe la altura de 
esta Mission y la halle, en 30? 44: Y assi digo : En la Mission de 
Caborca, dia 24. de Mayo de 1776 : Altura meridiana del bordo 
inferior del sol : 80? 

140 Dia 25. Se fue el P. Fr. Thomas Eixareh, para su mission de 
Tumacacori. Salimos de la mission de Caborca a las quatro y 
quarto de la tarde, y a las onze y media de la noche, paramos en 

el baxio del parage llamado el Bamuri, haviendo caminado diez 10 
leguas, con rumbo al sursudeste. 

141 Dia 26. Salimos del Bamuri a las cinco y quarto de la 
manana, y a las ocho y quarto llegamos al real de la Cieneguilla, 5 
haviendo caminado cinco leguas con rumbo al sursudeste. 

Dia 27. Nos detuvimos este dia. Observe la altura de esse 
real y lo halle en 30? 14:1/2- Y assi digo : En el Real de la Ciene- 
guilla, dia 27. de Mayo de 1776 : Altura meridiana del bordo 
inferior del sol 81? 

Dia 28. Aunque se avia determinado seguir oy nuestro 
camino, nos detuvimos por lograr la ocasion de ir juntos y de 
comboy con otra gente que salia maiiana, por quanto el camino 
que nos faltaba es muy peligroso por los enemigos Apaches que 
en estos tiempos ban executado en el varios insultos y muertes, v 
aun mas que los Apaches, los Seris y los Pimas o Piatos alzados. 

142 Dia 29. Salimos del Real de la Cieneguilla a las cinco y 
quarto de la tarde, y a las diez de la noche paramos en el parage 
llamado los Cerritos haviendo caminado siete leguas, con rumbo 7 
dos al sudeste, y cinco al estsudeste. 

143 Dia 30. Salimos de los Cerritos a las quatro y tres quartos 
de la manana, y a las nueve y quarto de la noche paramos en un 



[128] 



Diary of Pedro Font, 129 

having travelled nine leagues: three to the south, three south- 
east, and three to the east-southeast. All the road through the 
Papagueria is verj'^ winding and twisting, on account of the 
great scarcity of pasture and, more particularly, of watering- 
places, so that the necessity of hunting for them is the reason 
why this road is so hard to traverse. At the presidio of Altar 
we asked for some animals to relieve those that were entirely 
worn out by the hard road of the Papagueria. 

May 24. — We remained at the mission. I observed the lati- 
tude of this mission and found it to be 30° 44' ; so I say : At the 
mission of Caborca, May 24, 1776 ; meridian altitude of the lower 
limb of the sun, 80°. 

May 25. — Father Tomas Eixarch went away to his mission of 
Tumacacori. We set out from the mission of Caborca at a quarter 
past four in the afternoon, and, at half-past eleven at night, 
halted in the sandy bottoms named El Bamuri, having travelled 
ten leagues to the south-southeast. 

May 26. — We set from El Bamuri at a quarter past five 
in the morning, and, at a quarter past eight, arrived at the Real 
de la Cieneguilla, having marched five leagues south-southeast. 

May 27. — We remained here to-day. I observed the latitude 
of the camp, and found it to be 30° I4I/2' ; so I say : At the Real 
de la Cieneguilla, May 27, 1776, meridian altitude of the lower 
limb of the sun, 81°. 

May 28. — Although it had been decided to continue our jour- 
ney to-day, we tarried in order to take advantage of the oppor- 
tunity of travelling in company with some other people who were 
to set out the next day, and to act as their escort ; for the 
remainder of the road is very dangerous on account of the 
unfriendly Apaches, who have recently committed a number of 
outrages and murders along it. Even worse than the Apaches 
are the Seris and the Pimas or Piatos Alzados. 

^lay 29. — We set out from the Real de la Cieneguilla at a 
quarter past five in the afternoon, and, at ten o'clock at night, 
halted at the place called Los Cerritos, having travelled seven 
leagues, two to the southeast, and five east-southeast. 

]\lay 30. — We set out from Los Cerritos at a quarter to five in 
the morning, and, at a quarter past nine at night, halted in a 

[129] 



130 Academy of Pacific Coast History. 

jornadas llano Una legua despues de la junta de los eaminos haviendo Leguas 
caminado catorze leguas, con rumbo, siete al sudeste, y llegamos 14 
al aguage del tecolote en donde nos detuvimos liasta la tarde. 
Luego siete al sudeste quarta al este. 

144 Dia 31. Salimos del llano a las quatro y tres quartos de la 
manana, y a las diez y quarto de la noche paramos en un llano 
despues del zanjon haviendo caminado quinze leguas con rumbo 15 
cinco al sudeste y sursudeste hasta el pozo de Chryssanto, en 
donde nos detuvimos hasta la tarde. Luego diez al estsudeste con 
alguna variacion. 

145 Dia 1. de Junio. Salimos del llano a las cinco de la maiiana, 
y a las ocho llegamos al Presidio de S*^ Miguel de Orcasitas, 
haviendo caminado quatro leguas con rumbo al estsudeste y aun 4 
quasi al este. 

Dia 2. " Me detuve en el Presidio. A medio dia observe la 
altura de este Presidio y lo halle en 29? 30: Y assi digo: En el 
Presidio de S'^ Miguel de Orcasitas, dia 2. de Junio de 1776 : 
Altura meridiana del bordo inferior del sol: 82? 34: 

En este Presidio de S"^ Miguel de Orcasitas, del qual salio la 
expedicion se acabo nuestro viage de ida y buelta, y el dia 5. de 
Junio me passe a la mission de Vres en donde saque este diario, y 
trabaje el mapa que lo acompaiia lo qual conclui dia 23. de Junio 
de 1776. 

Fr. Pedro Font, 
(rubrica) 



[130] 



Diary op Pedro Font. 131 

plain one league beyond the fork of the roads, having travelled 1776 
fourteen leagues : seven to the southeast, when we arrived at the ^ 
Aguage del Tecolote, where we remained until afternoon; then 
seven leagues southeast by east. 

]\Iay 31. — "We set out from the plain at a quarter to five in 
the morning, and, at a quarter past ten at night, halted on a 
plain on the other side of the slough, having travelled fifteen 
leagues: five to the southeast and south-southeast as far as the 
Pozo de Chrysanto, where we remained until afternoon; then 
ten to the east-southeast with some variation. 

June 1. — We set out from the plain at five in the morning, 
and arrived at the presidio of San Miguel de Horeasitas at eight, 
having travelled four leagues to the east-southeast, almost due 
east. 

June 2. — I stayed at the presidio. At noon I observed the 
latitude of this presidio, and found it to be 29° 30' ; so I say : In 
the presidio of San Miguel de Horeasitas, June 2, 1776, meridian 
altitude of the lower limb of the sun, 82° 34'. 

Our round trip was thus ended at this presidio of San ]\[iguel 
de Horeasitas, from which the expedition had set out, and on the 
5th of June I went to the mission of Ures, where I wrote out this 
diary, and drew the map accompanying it, all of which I finished 
on the 23rd day of June, 1776. 

Friar Pedro Font. 
(rubric) 



[131] 



^m 3] 1913 



Publications of the 
Academy of Pacific Coast History 

Vol. 3 No. I 



THE ANZA EXPEDITION OF 1775-1776 
DIARY OF PEDRO FONT 



Edited by 

Frederick J. Teggart 

Associate Professor of Pacific Coast History, University of California 
Curator of the Academy of Pacific Coast History 



University of California 

Berkeley, California 

March, 1913 



ACADEMY OF PACIFIC COAST HISTORY. 

(Founded 1907.) 
MEMBERS OF THE COUNCIL. 
Thomas R. Baed William F. Heeein 

William B. Bourn Richard M. Hotaling 

William H. Ceocker Livingstone Jenks 

Guy C. Earl James K. Moffitt 

Joseph D. Grant Frederick W, Shaeon 

Mes. Phoebe Appeeson Hearst Sigmund Steen 

Rudolph J. Taussig 
Benjamin Lje Wheeler, ex officio 

OFFICERS. 

Heney Mobse Stephens, Secretary. 

Frederick J. Teggart, Curator and Editor. 

Herbert I. Priestley, Assistant Curator. 

According to the Constitution of the Academy, there are still seven places 
to be filled upon the Council. 



Extracts from the Constitution of the Academy of Pacific 
Coast History : 

Article I. 

The name of the Academy shaU be the Academy of Pacific Coast History. 
Article II. 

Its object shall be the promotion of the study of the political, social, 
commercial and the industrial history, and of the ethnology, geography, 
and literature of the Pacific Coast of America, and the publication of 
monographs, historical documents, and other historical material relating 
thereto. 

Article III. 

The Regents of the University of California have entrusted the control 
and administration of the books and manuscripts collected by Mr. H. H. 
Bancroft and known as the Bancr'oft Collection, together with such other 
historical material as is already in their possession or may come into their 
possession, to the Council of the Academy of Pacific Coast History, on 
condition that the President of the University of California be, ex officio, a 
member of the Council, that the Secretary of the Academy be appointed 
by the Regents, and that the names of members of the Council be sub- 
mitted to the Regents for their approval. 

Article IX. 

Any person approved by the Council may become a Fellow of the Acad- 
emy of Pacific Coast History upon the recommendation of two fellows and 
the payment of ten dollars ; and after the first year may continue a fellow 
by paying an annual subscription of ten dollars in advance. On payment 
of one hundred dollars, any fellow may become a life-feUow exempt from 
further subscriptions. 

Article X. 

The publications of the Academy of Pacific Coast History shall be for- 
warded free of charge to all Fellows of the Academy of Pacific Coast His- 
tory, and they shall be entitled to additional copies of these publications at 
a reduced rate from that charged to the general public. 

Applications for Fellowships in the Academy of Pacific Coast 
History may be made to the Secretary, Curator, or to the Secre- 
tary of the Board of Regents, University of California, Berkeley, 
California. 



PUBLICATIONS OF THE ACADEMY OF PACIFIC 
COAST HISTORY. 



VOLUME 1. 

1. The San Francisco Clearing House Certificates of 1907-1908, by Carl 

Copping Plehn, Professor of Finance, University of California. 

14 pages and plate. January, 1909. 

2. The oflScial account of the Portola Expedition of 1769-1770, edited by 

Frederick J. Tegqart, Curator, Academy of Pacific Coast History. 

15 pages and plate. August, 1909. 

3. Diary of Caspar de Portola during the California Expedition of 1769- 

1770, edited by Donald Eugene Smith, Assistant Professor of 
History and Geography, University of California, and Feedeeick 
J. Tegqart. 59 pages and plate. October, 1909. 

4. The Narrative of the Portola Expedition of 1769-1770 by Miguel Cos- 

tanso, edited by Adolph van Hemert-Engert, Assistant in the 
Academy of Pacific Coast History, and Frederick J. Tegqart. 
69 pages and plate. March, 1910. 

5. The United States ConsuJ5,te in California, by Rayner Wickersham 

Kelsey. 107 pages. June, 1910. 

6. Diary of Patrick Breen, one of the Donner Party, 1846-1847, edited 

by Frederick J. Tegqart. 16 pages and plate. July, 1910. 

7. Papers of the San Francisco Committee of Vigilance of 1851, I., edited 

by Porter Garnett, Assistant Curator, Academy of Pacific Coast 
History. 69 pages and plate. July, 1910. 

Price: In parts as issued $2.50 

Sewed (paper covers) $2.75 

Bound in blue cloth $3.00 

VOLUME 2. 

1. The Portola Expedition of 1769-1770 — Diary of Vicente Vila, Com- 

mander of the San Carlos, edited by Robert Selden Rose, Assistant 
in Spanish, Universitv of California. 119 pages and plate. July, 
1911. 

2. Papers of the San Francisco Committee of Vigilance of 1851, XL, edited 

by Porter Garnett. 19 pages and plate. July, 1911. 

3. Expedition to San Francisco Bay in 1770 — Diary of Pedro Fages, edited 

by Herbert Eugene Bolton, Professor of American History, Uni- 
versity of California. 19 pages. July, 1911. 

4. The Portola Expedition of 1769-1770 — Diary of Miguel Costanso, edited 

by Frederick J. Tegqart. 167 pagesw August, 1911. 

5. Expedition on the Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivers in 1817 — Diary 

of Fray Narciso Duran, edited by Charles Edw^vrd Chapman, Assist- 
ant in the Academy of Pacific Coast History. 21 pages. December, 
1911. 

VOLUME 3. 

1. The Anza Expedition of 1775-1776 — Diary of Pedro Font, edited by 
Frederick J. Tegqart, Curator, Academy of Pacific Coast History. 
131 pages and plate. March, 1913. 



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